How Do You Mount Architraves Around An Arch?

[Metal Head]

Hi,

In conjuction with thread

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=50119

I have attached an image of the arch way I am revamping.

Is it normal practice to put the sides up first then make the top piece to suit or vice versa?

I presume if it was a doorway, it would be done the same way?

Cheers
MH

[ozwinner]

Taint an arch, an arch has a radius as the head.

Put on the side architraves then the top architrave.

Al

[DJ’s Timber]

[Metal Head]

Taint an arch, an arch has a radius as the head.

Put on the side architraves then the top architrave.

Al

I know it isn't a real arch - so what would you call it Oz?

[ozwinner]

Square reveal, square opening?

I think square reveal is more the go.

Al

[Wayne Davy]

Or I have heard it called a "Cased Opening" but Oz would also, of course, be correct


<DT>Cased Opening <DD>A three sided frame without hinge or strike preparations.
</DD>
Oh, If you wanna get creative, try this link http://jcgi.pathfinder.com/toh/print...219313,00.html

[ozwinner]

But Oz would also, of course, be correct

Not always, I am from a flawed gene pool.

Al

[manoftalent]

following the other thread on fitting .....you can use screws if you want to, but normal practise would be bullet head nails ...they dont leave to much to cover up when you stain/paint the archs and they are only there to cover up the gap between the wall and door jam anyway.....oh and look nice and stuff .....tip here before you cut anything .....because houses DO move .....check the door frame with a square first ......and make adjustments if needed .....then apply the archs .....you dont want to be fitting doors later and find they are not square fitting......be a shame to have to pull it all apart and rectify it later...

[ex-chippie]

Hi Metal Head,

I would always fit up the head (top) and drop a tape from over the head to the floor (less a couple of mm's) on an unfinished surface to be tiled or carpeted. If you are working on a finished surface(tiled or polished boards), sit your sides down to the floor and mark your "short end of the mitre".After your sides are fitted up mark, cut and fit the head. Only ever use bullet head/ gun nails for your arch's and skirts.

[Metal Head]

Thanks to everyone who left me an answer - much appreciated.

tip here before you cut anything .....because houses DO move .....check the door frame with a square first ......and make adjustments if needed .....then apply the archs

Hi MOT,

Thanks for the advice, but you may just notice I have already made adjustments by the packing fitted in various parts around the hardwood frame (that will be painted. The area I live in has one of the highest contents of clay in the soil in the whole of Melbourne. Even after our restumping last year there has still been movement. I popped into the house next door yesterday (to have a sticky beak) as it is up for auction in three weeks time. I could hear several people commenting about the cracks in the ceiling and walls so mine isn't just an isolate case in the street. The postman told me last week that having a brick veneer would be no less vunerable as he had been in houses in the immediate area that had cracks that you could nearly put your hand(s) in - so I didn't feel so bad about ours then.

.....you dont want to be fitting doors later and find they are not square fitting......be a shame to have to pull it all apart and rectify it later...

As I had said in the previously mentioned thread. The reason for doing this work was to remove (and replace) the old frame work that was rebated for the long gone bi-fold doors.

Cheers
MH