Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: "Rope" on heater door
-
29th May 2007, 08:44 PM #1
"Rope" on heater door
We have an Ultimate inbuilt wood heater and after a few years of use the 'rope' around the door has passed it's use byb date and is sucking air.
I know that if I go back to Ultimate they will charge me an arm and three legs for a new piece of 'rope., doe's anyone know of a place where I can buy this sealant at a reasonable price????
And.......what is the proper anme for this product.
Thanks in advance to the erudite members of this forumStupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
-
29th May 2007, 09:04 PM #2
Rope door seal?
Quick google brought up this place in NSW, might mail order.
I think I got a new seal for ours a few years ago at a woodheater place in Hallam, corner of Rimfire drive & Centre Road, can't remember the name of the place.
Could also try Hardy's in Pakenham.
Cheers................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
-
29th May 2007, 09:10 PM #3
try
All Points Glass and Aluminium
Southern suburbs
Carrum Downs
19 Frankston Gardens Dr.
Carrum Downs Vic.
Ph. (03) 97853311
Fax. (03)97851411
As they supply heater glass I expect they might also supply the door seals
-
29th May 2007, 09:45 PM #4
Iain, try your local Mitre 10 store, they quite often have it. Another one is The BBQ Shop. Even some Chainsaw and Mower shops stock it.
If you having trouble tracking some down, let me know and I can get you some from my local guy.Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
-
29th May 2007, 10:15 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 100
You need to be carefull with that "rope" if it seals the fire door it may well be an asbestos rope used to seal the door
I dont know what replaces it these days possibly a silicon tube or similar
Doug
-
29th May 2007, 10:43 PM #6
-
29th May 2007, 10:53 PM #7
It also comes in a couple of different sizes, so measure yours when you go to get the new rope.
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons,
for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
....................... .......................
-
29th May 2007, 11:08 PM #8"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
-
30th May 2007, 08:13 AM #9
Thanks for the replies, I used the term 'rope' as this is what it looks like, not a silicon or rubber type seal.
I will be in Carrum Downs later today so I will give them a go, failing that revert back to the board and try the other addresses.
I bought the heater just shy of 5 years ago, brand new, so I doubt that the seal is asbestos.
Anyone familiar with these may be aware that on the door handle, or should I say the locking lever behind the door there are a series of washers that you remove as the seal compresses, the seal has now compressed to the stage that there are no more washers to remove.
When I did removed the washer I simply placed it above the clamp and reattached the nut so they wouldn't get lost when it came time to replace the seal, this is for anyone who has a similar heater and wants to know how to store the washers without losing them.
Again, thanks for the input.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
-
30th May 2007, 09:54 AM #10Registered
- Join Date
- Aug 2003
- Location
- .
- Posts
- 4,816
PM me your address Iain, I have a fair bit of it at the shop that I set aside.
I wont charge you an arm and leg as we have too many already.
Al
-
30th May 2007, 01:58 PM #11
Last time I replaced our 'rope' we purchased it from a local 'wood heater' store. They just matched the thickness & cut the length from a roll.
Also purchased some 'thermoseal' to glue it on.Peter Clarkson
www.ausdesign.com.au
This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.
-
31st May 2007, 08:03 AM #12
Thanks Al, if it's not the right stuff I have found out that it costs about $5 a metre and one place called it ceramic seal, as for sealant, I doubt this is neccessary for this heater as it compresses into a 'U' type channel and should hold itself in place.
I am guestimating that I need about 2 metres of the stuff, maybe a bit less.
Next project is a wood shed, daughter is helping me build one over the school holidays, reckon we should have it knocked up in a day, just a basic frame that attaches to the side of the feed shed with some fibreglass roofing and a panel on the West side to prevent the rain driving in with the prevailing winds.
Miss 13 has announced that she wants to learn how to use power tools, eg SCMS, 18v drill etc.
I scored 4 bags of 100 tech screws for roofing for $2 each at a junk shop so attaching should be a breeze, have replaced the old fibreglass sheets on the verandah with polycarbon so a few more bucks saved there with the shed roof and wall.
As long as she is supervised I think she will be OK but she can keep away from the routers and TS for a while yet, may even let her loose with a paint brush when finished, I find them a real challenge.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
Similar Threads
-
Bifold Doors ?????
By pantotango in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETCReplies: 30Last Post: 13th March 2007, 05:49 PM -
Installing a door frame before hanging a door
By Hybrid in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETCReplies: 18Last Post: 9th January 2007, 08:31 AM -
How to remove Metal Door Frame (and put up glass shower door)
By makka619 in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETCReplies: 7Last Post: 11th October 2006, 02:41 PM -
rehinging a french door
By grumpywombat in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETCReplies: 4Last Post: 17th August 2003, 09:38 PM
Bookmarks