Saw handle finish

[Woodlee]

I recently acquired a Tyzack and Turner back saw in very good condition and am in the process of stripping the varnish from the handle .
As the varnish was peeling any way I spent a couple of hours late this arvo scraping the varnish from the handle with a small knife.
After a light sanding with well worn 240 grit and and then some 400 ,I used fine steel wool to polish the wood.
,The handle has some nice grain and little black flecks through it ,It may be box wood I'm not sure ,but It seems it was a common timber for tool handles on English made tools .

So I was wondering what would be a good finish to apply to show off the grain , but not too glossy ,I dont want to go the varnish road .
Would boiled linseed finshed with a coat of paste wax do the trick?
At least with linseed it would be easy to rejuvenated occasionally .

What are your thoughts?
What do you fellas use on your tool handles?

[jmk89]

Woodlee

I tend to use Danish Oil, just to get a bit of poly on the handle to make the finish more long wearing, or wipe on poly for the same reason.


If I want a rally good finish, I go to the sponsors products - usually shellac (5-10 coats cut back with fine sand paper (1200+) after each coat, then EEE and finally Trad wax using a swansdown to polish off.

Having said that, BLO and wax will give a nice finish, provided you wait long enough for the BLO to soak in and polymerise (for me it seems to take 2-3 weeks). I like how it looks, but I usually want to use the tool sooner than that - hence the quick and dirty use of Danish oil or wipeon poly!!

Cheers

Jeremy

[Woodlee]

Woodlee

I tend to use Danish Oil, just to get a bit of poly on the handle to make the finish more long wearing, or wipe on poly for the same reason.


If I want a rally good finish, I go to the sponsors products - usually shellac (5-10 coats cut back with fine sand paper (1200+) after each coat, then EEE and finally Trad wax using a swansdown to polish off.

Having said that, BLO and wax will give a nice finish, provided you wait long enough for the BLO to soak in and polymerise (for me it seems to take 2-3 weeks). I like how it looks, but I usually want to use the tool sooner than that - hence the quick and dirty use of Danish oil or wipeon poly!!



Cheers

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy,
I did a search after I posted this and came across this article by Bob Smalser
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...ghlight=chisel

I should have done this first I guess ,but anyway ,he uses a gunstock finish ,which I have some of .
I also have some of the same brand walnut stain ,but it maybe too dark .
Ill have try any way .

Never gave the Birchwood Casey Truoil a thought ,probably because I havent used it for a long time .

Kev.

[jmk89]

Kev

I never remember that article until it's too late!!!!

I must try that technique some time.

Cheers

Jeremy

[Woodlee]

Kev

I never remember that article until it's too late!!!!

I must try that technique some time.

Cheers

Jeremy

I built a 54 cal muzzleloading rifle many years ago and the walnut toned grain filler and the Truoil are left over from this project ,I've been married 30 years this year (you get less for murder) and I built the rifle just after I was married.That's how long I've had this stuff ,no wonder I forgot it.
The price tag on the bottle of Truoil says $2.15 .

[BobL]

Woodlee
Having said that, BLO and wax will give a nice finish, provided you wait long enough for the BLO to soak in and polymerise (for me it seems to take 2-3 weeks). I like how it looks, but I usually want to use the tool sooner than that - hence the quick and dirty use of Danish oil or wipeon poly!!

1) I sand tool handles with 240, 320, 400W&D and 800W&D to bring out the grain as much as possible.
2) I then mix up a solution Pale Boiled Linseed Oil diluted with ~25% turps - call it X.
3) Wipe X on liberally, rub it firmly and let soak in for a few minutes, wipe off any excess and leave overnight to dry - if still very sticky next day leave it a couple of days till it dries out a bit more and next time add more more turps to your X. If you are desperate you can start to use the tool from here after.
4) Dab a 20c size spot of X on a rag and add a couple of drops of shellac on the wet spot, rub on/in well, repeat until wood has all been treated this way, continue to rub wood until barely damp - should take no more than a few minutes as the shellac will dry quickly and the rag will absorb any excess. Leave till dry - this can be just a few hours or overnight .
5) Repeat 4) increasing the numbers of drops of shellac by one each time, do this 2 or 3 more times.
6) Finish with a light coat/rub of Trad wax.
This effect should leave a smooth yet non-slippery surface perfect for hand tools. If the finish dulls you can just apply a coat of trad wax. If it starts to get too slippery revert to step 4) - just one coat should do it.
In warm weather you should be able to complete this in 2 days.

A variation for hard wood.
If the wood is REALLY hard like Wandoo or Jam you can save time on the first step as follows
a) sand as per above.
b) liberally coat with X and let it stand for a half hour or so.
c) rub X into the wood using the 800W&D just like you do with a burnishing oil, keep adding X to the 800W&D rubbing and burnishing for several complete coats.
c) When a coating of wood dust and oil becomes clearly visible wipe it of with a cloth repeat burnishing (b)for another time or two.
d) By now the the surface should be satin smooth and glowing. At this point you can go to 1200 grit of you wish and repeat b)
e) Go to step 4 above and follow the rest of the procedure.
In warm weather you should be able to complete this in 1 day.

[Woodlee]

1) I sand tool handles with 240, 320, 400W&D and 800W&D to bring out the grain as much as possible.
2) I then mix up a solution Pale Boiled Linseed Oil diluted with ~25% turps - call it X.
3) Wipe X on liberally, rub it firmly and let soak in for a few minutes, wipe off any excess and leave overnight to dry - if still very sticky next day leave it a couple of days till it dries out a bit more and next time add more more turps to your X. If you are desperate you can start to use the tool from here after.
4) Dab a 20c size spot of X on a rag and add a couple of drops of shellac on the wet spot, rub on/in well, repeat until wood has all been treated this way, continue to rub wood until barely damp - should take no more than a few minutes as the shellac will dry quickly and the rag will absorb any excess. Leave till dry - this can be just a few hours or overnight .
5) Repeat 4) increasing the numbers of drops of shellac by one each time, do this 2 or 3 more times.
6) Finish with a light coat/rub of Trad wax.
This effect should leave a smooth yet non-slippery surface perfect for hand tools. If the finish dulls you can just apply a coat of trad wax. If it starts to get too slippery revert to step 4) - just one coat should do it.
In warm weather you should be able to complete this in 2 days.

A variation for hard wood.
If the wood is REALLY hard like Wandoo or Jam you can save time on the first step as follows
a) sand as per above.
b) liberally coat with X and let it stand for a half hour or so.
c) rub X into the wood using the 800W&D just like you do with a burnishing oil, keep adding X to the 800W&D rubbing and burnishing for several complete coats.
c) When a coating of wood dust and oil becomes clearly visible wipe it of with a cloth repeat burnishing (b)for another time or two.
d) By now the the surface should be satin smooth and glowing. At this point you can go to 1200 grit of you wish and repeat b)
e) Go to step 4 above and follow the rest of the procedure.
In warm weather you should be able to complete this in 1 day.

Thanks Bob ,
The weather is always warm up here so things dry pretty quickly .

Just a couple of questions
Would Johnsons Paste Wax be a substitute for Trad wax ?I have a tin of that ,I'm not sure I could get any other wax from the local hardware,but I'll check as things are rather limited here.
As the timber on this handel is pale with some darker colour on the end grain,and a nice fleck through it should I add some stain or just leave it ?
I dont want to darken it too much ,from my experience with linseed it tends to darken timber some what maybe that will be enough.
Linseed I can get ,not sure if its pale or not.
I'll make some enquiries .May have to go the mail order track.
Cheers and thanks again
Kev

[BobL]

Thanks Bob ,
The weather is always warm up here so things dry pretty quickly .

Just a couple of questions
Would Johnsons Paste Wax be a substitute for Trad wax ?

From the sponsors Web Pages

Traditional Wax is a general purpose wax paste made from a unique blend of animal, vegetable and mineral waxes including Carnauba (the hardest of all waxes) for a hard bright shine and durability, Ozocerite and Ceresin (high melt waxes) for extra hardness, shine and water resistance, Microcrystalline for added water resistance, a hint of beeswax for smoothness and the clean fresh fragrance of Herbal Pine.

From the Johnsons Web page: Fine wood paste contains carnauba wax and Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon.

It seems like the sponsors product has a bit more thought gone into it and is very appropriate for something that one might handle. The other seems very functional like something one might put on a floor or a large piece of furniture?

The thing is you don't need much wax and a small tub of it will last a long time.

Cheers

[rsser]

You can make your own 'Danish Oil' with equal parts oil, turps and poly. For handles I'd be upping the poly though for a bit more surface protection.

BLO already has a solvent AFAIK.

I've used Rustin's DO on handles with Trad wax over the top. It comes up OK but sweat and dust seem to keep the finish looking a bit dull and dirty.

[Woodlee]

From the sponsors Web Pages


From the Johnsons Web page: Fine wood paste contains carnauba wax and Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon.

It seems like the sponsors product has a bit more thought gone into it and is very appropriate for something that one might handle. The other seems very functional like something one might put on a floor or a large piece of furniture?

The thing is you don't need much wax and a small tub of it will last a long time.

Cheers

I' ve been working on two saw handles all day and I am pleased to say they look great ,I just need to order some Trad wax to finish the job.
The shellac is a worry though ,I went abought a 250 gram jar of Feast and Watsons premium grade shellac and mixed it with Metho (as per directions),let it sit for a while and stirred it to dissolve it ,then strained it to get out the undissolved stuff. It looks like dirty brown coffee in the jar . My memory of shellac from my high school years is of a clear honey coloured liquid.It seems to work ok
When I get finished I,ll post some pics.
Thanks Bob for your advice , the finish is just what I was hoping to achieve.

Cheers Kev.

[rsser]

Let it sit for a day Kev.

[Woodlee]

Let it sit for a day Kev.

.



I just checked it ,it still looks like coffee.It's been in my shed fridge since yesterday afternoon.

[rsser]

Maybe take it out of the fridge and then give it a day.

If it doesn't clarify then the flakes may be sh*t or the meths more diluted with water than usual.

If so, best option is to buy from ubeaut.

[Woodlee]

Maybe take it out of the fridge and then give it a day.

If it doesn't clarify then the flakes may be sh*t or the meths more diluted with water than usual.

If so, best option is to buy from ubeaut.

Well U beaut is not here in town and I wanted to get some handles done over the week end .I guess its a matter of whats available here when I need it .If I had planned the jobs in advance I probably would have ordered online and got my stuff from them .

I put it in the fridge to stop the meths from evaporating off ,I keep all my glues and other stuff that has solvents in the fridge because of the high temperatures up here .
On the bottle the shellac came in the directions said to use 95% ethanol ,thats all what was available here so I used that .I guess I can take it out of the fridge ,but I reckon in a day half the meths would have evaporated off .Maybe I should strain it through a finer cloth or stocking maybe.

One question on turpentine you may be able to clarify for me ,in the local Mitre 10 they have Mineral turpentine , low odour turpentine and natural turpentine.
Would the natural turpentine be also known as gum turpentine?
Reason is I have a big block of beeswax which I could use for some finishing and I've read that it will only dissolve in gum turpentine.Have I got the right info here ?