Jointing Wet Area Gyproc (CONFUSED!)

**adam01** · 7th May 2007, 02:42 PM

Does anybody have any idea why Gyproc recommend the use of perforated paper tape and specify NOT to use their self adhesive gyproc easytape when jointing their aquachek wet area boards. I can't find perforated paper tape anywhere and I've got enough easytape to reach to the bloody moon and back. PLEASE say I can use it!
Thanks

**scooter** · 7th May 2007, 10:36 PM

Gday Adam, I'd be following CSR's advice & use the paper tape, it results in a stronger joint than the easytape. Not sure exactly why they specify it for wet area situations in particular, maybe ring their info line to get an explanation.

Any bunnings or mitre 10 will have the paper tape. It's actually easier to use than you might think. Cheap too.

Good luck..............cheers...................Sean

**peter_sm** · 7th May 2007, 11:27 PM

I only used paper tape first up on all joins, and it is quite easy to use, even for a first timer. The trick is to make sure you put it on with no bubles of air underneath, but still not that hard, just have to watch for it. Comes with a crease line to allow for corners too.

I found if you do happen to rub through it after basecoat, you really easily pick up with the top coat. I could imagine bits of mesh sticking up would be tricky to topcoat.

**rod@plasterbrok** · 8th May 2007, 12:12 AM

Stronger Joint. Seals the joint better. All the testing was done using paper tape for accreditation. Therefore for warranties to be valid you need to use paper tape.

This is more important if using villaboard. No villaboard joint should have fibre glass tape. Nearly all will crack in time. Often a very small hairline crack will appear in weeks of aplication.

Paper tape is available at any plasterboard outlet for about $3.75 per roll. At least thats what we sell it for.

Cheers

**adam01** · 8th May 2007, 09:41 AM

Thanks for all the info guys. At risk of revealing my true novice/idiot status can I ask one more question.
The spec sheet I have specifies "perforated" paper tape. The paper tape that I've seen on the shelf in my builders merchant appears to be just paper with a centre line for creasing but with no apparent perforations. Are the holes just so small that you can't see them or is this the wrong stuff? It may seem a trifling matter but I am desperately trying to get this reno' done slowly and properly.
(Also any suggestions as to what I can do with 90 metres of easytape!! )

**rod@plasterbrok** · 8th May 2007, 12:04 PM

You are correct. The holes are very tiny. They vary a bit from brand to brand.

Some of the cheaper imports they get these days have less and smaller perforations, but they all do the same job.

The better quality tape has distinct perforations and the outer edge of tape on the inside on the crease, is scuffed to aid bonding. Also the paper is a larger weight making it a bit stiffer.

The end result is the same with either variety. The main difference is that the stiffer tape is more user friendly.

Chuck whats left in the shed. Maybe a friend will want some one day. It wont go off!!!

Cheers

Rod

**adam01** · 8th May 2007, 12:31 PM

Cheers Rod.
Sometimes a bit of reassurance even on the simplist matters is a great help! Thanks for taking the time and I'll try the paper tape as you said.
You can't recommend a waterproof membrane to paint on after jointing can you?! (you don't get rid of me that easy!!!)

**rod@plasterbrok** · 8th May 2007, 06:10 PM

Lol no I cant really. Thats not my field.

Personally I used a liquid rubber type product that you just trowell on. I can't even remember the name of it.

It is certainly the best thing to do though.

I am sure someone will come up with the best product for you.

**bpj1968** · 14th May 2007, 02:38 PM

My local plaster supplier said to use, and sold, Dulux oil based undercoat, and tile straight over. Did that about 4-5 ago on the shower wall and haven't had a problem. It was half teh price than at Bunnies as well

**adam01** · 14th May 2007, 08:35 PM

Hmmmm, Dulux undercoat may be one way forward but it doesn't sound quite right to me. Especially since I will be applying the membrane to the walls, floor and general areas around the bath. I think I need some sort of paint on proprietary membrane which will then be compatible with my tile adhesive don't I? Preferably one which dries quickly and doesn't force me to re-mortgage the house to pay for it! ( Oh,yeah and if it can apply itself whilst I'm in the pub that would be even better).

**adam01** · 16th May 2007, 09:20 AM

Just forked out $80-odd dollars

for 4 litres of some gear from Crommelin for "waterproofing walls and floor prior to tiling". Comes complete with bond-breaker, membrane and even includes the bloody paint brush! Mind you at that price I'd want it to give me a hand with the tiling too. Fingers crossed I can find a compatable tile adhesive now!

**benzine** · 19th May 2007, 08:00 PM

Just found your thread. I would have recommended Davco K10 Plus waterproofing membrane.

Great stuff - http://www.davco.com.au/staging/australia/default.asp

Heaps of DIY info on this site - here too http://www.jameshardie.com.au/

Incidently - what type of stopping compound did you use?

**econ** · 20th May 2007, 01:37 AM

dampflex 2. Reinforcing fibres in the mix easy to apply ,v.good product

**LegacyGT** · 9th January 2008, 02:36 AM

so with the wet area base coat i only do two layers (so it says on the tub)

do i top coat it?

**LegacyGT** · 9th January 2008, 09:46 PM

also the compound i used has many cracks in the thicker parts. like a dry riverbed.

HELP!!!

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