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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    110

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    Quote Originally Posted by julianx View Post
    I think you have misinterperated what I was saying,I wasn't suggesting you only check the ends of the lintel two thirds of the way into the jamb studs, these will need at least one full stud. I was suggesting a process for installing the lintel. which is - select a lintel that is narrower than the depth of the existing studs then check this into all the existing studs above the opening. This can be just under the top plate or just above the opening. Then fit the right number of jamb studs under the ends of the lintel. The bottom of the studs in the new opening can then be cut off leaving the top of the studs as jack studs. If the lintel is directly under the existing top plate then the opening can be framed up with a lintel trimmer as a head.
    Hope this is a bit clearer
    Ah, yes. The

    select a lintel that is narrower than the depth of the existing studs
    "DEPTH" I took to be somehow meaning vertical, when I now realise you mean the "WIDTH" of the stud

    So yes, I now understand you intention and yes, is another way of doing the job. I guess the approach to take is somewhat dependent on the type of wall construction and the space available above the new lintel.
    Kind Regards

    Peter

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Hi
    Quote Originally Posted by Metung View Post
    I imagine there should be something between the top plate and the pieces of timber to transfer the load
    Yes there should be something to transfer the load. I am used to working with BRICK walls so in my case there is usually bricks between the top plate and the support beams.

    In Art's instance, if the wall is timber then some short studs will be needed temporarily
    Kind Regards

    Peter

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    44

    Default

    Hi All.

    Thanks for everyone's help. I got my hands dirty and completed the job, and so for the sake of someone who searches for information on opening up a wall in the future, I would like to add a few comments.

    I used MrFixits method(Post #7) and this worked well. A few comments.

    I tried using timber at first instead of acrow props, and it is horribly unstable. Some people mentioned that you should use acrow props and ONLY acrow props, and they are completely correct. So I went out and hired acrow props.

    I found for the best stability, put the acrow props quite close to the wall(around a foot or less either side). There was more stability this way(less horizontal "twisting" of the timber support), and correct me if I am wrong, but it would more stable in transferring the load than having the props wider apart.

    I can't stress this enough...use a reciprocating saw rather than a handsaw when cutting through the studs. Our house was hardwood, and it took forever cutting by hand because I didnt want to spend $100 on a reciprocating saw.

    As a step by step as to what I did...NOTE: I am not a builder, I am just explaining what I did...take it with a "grain of salt"
    1. I had an engineer specify beam sizes based on my situation. Roof and Ceiling load, length of new beam etc.
    2. Put up supports as per MrFixit.
    3. Added new double studs where the beam was to start and finish on the wall.
    4. Cut through sections of studs at the top to allow the new beam to sit on. I cut out each section of stud(in my case 200mm's..), and then placed the cut sections back in "loose" until I was finished cutting all the sections.
    5. Once all the sections were cut out, I went to insert the beam. I was paranoid, so rather than simply cut out the sections, and allow the props to take the roof load while I put the new beam in, I kept the cut sections of the studs in loose(as mentioned in 4). What this allowed me to do was to place the beam in in sections. i.e stud 1, pull out the loose section of stud, place the beam in a little, and then move on to stud 2, pull out the loose section of stud, and place the beam in a little bit more.
    It's a little bit more difficult than just cutting the sections, and placing in the beam, but it allowed the beam to take some of the load. I hope that makes sense.
    6. Fix and fasten beam, and remove old studs.

    Again, this is just the way I did it, and it would be wise to consult a builder and/or engineer. I just feel that it is handy to have this information, as it can be quite frustrating when you search for information on a topic, and the post starter does not follow through with how they completed the job.

    Thanks again everyone!

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