Cutting skirtings to length

[MikeT]

That's all I've ever done. I fix the first length to the wall, with the 45 facing out, then the next length goes on over the top to lock it in.

Nailing through the scarf into a stud I assume.

[Gumby]

I've already painted the skirtings but was planning on filling holes etc after installing and just painting those bits - I didn't want to risk getting paint on my newly completed floors
...

Just put some newspaper under the skirting at the corners when you fix it to the wall. Then fill any gaps and paint them. After it's all dry, if the paper doesn't just slide out, cut it off with a sharp knife.

[silentC]

You should be nailing into the bottom plate. I usually keep the nails back from the edge of the scarf to avoid splitting. You don't need the nail to go through both members because the one on top holds the one behind against the wall.

[namtrak]

The cuts as described with a coping saw.

Just about to move onto the skirting boards here. As mentioned its a pretty straightforward job really. Little bit of filler here and there.

[silentC]

The cuts as described with a coping saw.

His skirting is square.

[MikeT]

You should be nailing into the bottom plate. I usually keep the nails back from the edge of the scarf to avoid splitting. You don't need the nail to go through both members because the one on top holds the one behind against the wall.

Is that the same with mdf? Does it have the rigidity to hold it agaisnt the other piece. I imagine it wouldn't split.

[silentC]

Yes, mine are MDF and that's how I did 'em. Don't think it wont split either, because it will. It really is rotten stuff...

It's not the same as the stuff you buy in sheets by the way. It's not as dense, more cardboard-like.

[namtrak]

His skirting is square.

Old age isn't all its cracked up to be. I read that, and thought at the time no need for the coping saw, then got through to the end of the thread and wondered why no-one mentioned he needed a coping saw.

[Sturdee]

Just put some newspaper under the skirting at the corners when you fix it to the wall. Then fill any gaps and paint them. After it's all dry, if the paper doesn't just slide out, cut it off with a sharp knife.

I do the same under all the skirting boards but with plastic. When the paint is dry it is very easily removed with a sharp knife.

Peter.

[woodcutta]

Originally posted by Sturdee

For internal corners you have one piece square as normal and the other piece scribed and cut to fit the shape. I use one of those gadgets that have many pins that you push into the shape to scribe the shape of the skirting and then use that to mark out the scribe on your skirting

.

Although not applicable in this case with the skirtings being square, when I am coping the corners I cut one side of the corner at 90 degrees and 1 side at 45 degrees. The profile of the cut on the 45 side is the line for coping the corner. Saves marking everytime.

The other trick when coping is to "back cut" slightly and leave about 1mm overlength. When fitting the coped corner, a little tap will crush the joint slightly ensuring it is a neat fit in the corner.

Regards
woodcutta

[SteveMcM]

Thanks Steve - that's a good one to check for and I wouldn't thought until I made a similar mistake.


Do people bog up the corners?

Basically that's all you can do to get a good finish back again if you end up with a gap. There's wood filler - sandable, but not that flexible, caulk in colours - sandable, paintable and flexible but not for wet areas, no more gaps type stuff - flexible, paintable but not sandable, no more gaps bathroom - flexible, OK for wet areas but must be painted within 48hr or the paint won't take. Probably there are a whole lot of other options I don't know about. Depends a lot on how much movement you are expecting and which room you are working in.

Steve

[TermiMonster]

Do people bog up the corners?

No, I usually leave that to the painter

[rat52]

Because of the flushing of gyprock the corners are not sq but are about 3mm proud over 300mm length

Internal butt joints are not so bad but external miters tend to open up at the front so when you measure them do so to the back of the miter and then cut at 46deg so the front points close up

a little no more gaps before you nail up and then clean up the squeeze out.

[hatemondays]

Beware of the orientation of your room also. As you enter the room, the wall directly opposite you should have the first skirt fitted, just cut square and butted against left and right walls. Then cut the left and right skirts at 45 deg (mitre them). Use a scroll saw and follow the profile of the skirt at the top of the mitre, back cutting a little so only the face of the scroll cut skirt is in contact with the skirt it is joining to. A good way to avoid bogging up is to take your time with scroll cutting and , as an example, when fitting a skirt to corner and the other end butts against an architrave, before marking the architrave side gently tap it with a hammer to snug the scroll cut skirt into the other.
I hope this isn't convoluted and confusing, 5 minutes live demo and all the guff above would be clear as day
good luck

[silentC]

Use a scroll saw and follow the profile of the skirt at the top of the mitre

His skirt is square.