R.O.S. What speeds to use for what???

[ptrott]

Hi all. I have recently purchased my first ROS having previously made do with a 1/3 sheet sander, a belt sander and a good strong right arm
The ROS has variable speed and I was wondering if there is any rule regarding grit size / wood hardness and speed. I assumed that the faster speeds were for smaller grit, but feel after using it for a while that there is possibly a bit more to it?????

Thanks,
Phill.

[Honorary Bloke]

G'day Ptrott,

It is a proven scientific fact that you will run the ROS at full speed 99.73% of the time. But for the occasional 40 grit attack you may want to slow it down to maintain better control of how much stock is removed.

[John Saxton]

Phil,HB has said that the speed should be run at pretty much the full speed irrespective of grit unless its a low grit and I gotta agree with him,however the orbital action of your sander should make the finishing easier across the grains and should only need a light pass with each successive grit to achieve some sense of satisfaction.

They don't need weight on them for that will stuff the pad most folk start around 180 and work up to whatever they feel they need to 600/800/1200 whatever.

Providing the material you're sanding is prepared reasonably well on getting out your sander then minimal passes with the RSO is all that should be required.

A RSO won't solve any problems with wild grain etc it will only make the sanding task more pleasurable ..something that most folk don't like.

Cheers

[Tex B]

They have a variable speed?


I seem to recall using a slower speed when I was trying to buff something and it wasn't working right, then I cranked it back up to high and haven't touched the speed since.

I'm sure there's a reason, and perhaps someone on the forum will enlighten us, but I can't see why you'd ever use any speed but high.

Tex

[ptrott]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I have been using it on 2 and 3 most of the time because on the higher speeds the coarser pads (40, 60, and 80) seem to wear out a lot faster without seeming to cut much better. It is a lot easier on the ears and hands on low speeds also.
I have used maximum speed (6) only for finer grit (120 240) especially when the pads are getting dull.
I have used it on Pine and Jarrah only, so far, which are pretty much opposite ends of the hardness scale. It seems to be able to handle faster speeds with coarser grits on Pine without getting dull much quicker, but on Jarrah it is a different story.
I am looking forward to more input from others to see what the general experience is.
Phill.

[durwood]

Looks like my post was lost in the hard drive failure, just as well as I was going to add a bit extra which I discovered about an hour after I posted it.

I was at a friends work and he had a catalogue for one of the top brand companies that make sanders etc for the trade (Rupes - Italian machines the Rolls Royce end of the spectrum)

The sanders for heavy duty (course paper) are slow speed, nothing over 6000rpm's and the fine sanding ones are all high speed 12000 rpm plus.

Orbital size varies from mainly 5mm down to a tiny 1.5mm which would make it real hard to see the circles in any timber.

Seems a good sander with variable speed between the two would do most jobs reasonably well.. Any difference would be up to the timber itself and the actual abrasive paper used. Some of the cheap brands of abrasive paper have the occasional large speck of grit which can leave a mark in the job where as the better brands have pretty constant grit sizes ( especially if the paper is marked P )

[ubeaut]

Low grits low speed, intermediate grits intermediate speed, fine grits 400 and above high speed. If you're a lazy bugger like me you'll just set it at flat out and be done with it.

I also use low speed with fine grit (1200+) for a final cut of a newly polished surface before applying EEE-Ultra Shine as the final cut 'n' polish of a finish. The lower speed seems stops the finish from clogging the abrasive so readily. Use a light hand and check abrasive regularly for clogging when doing this.

The make of ROS will make a big difference to the sanding process. A cheap sander won't be as smooth running or do as good a job as the more expensive top of the line ones will. I have a Festool which is brilliant. I have also had (and killed) a number of cheap and mid range ones. I can tell you without a shadow of doubt there is a definite difference. Not only with the quality of the tool but the ease and comfort of use and the final finish.

Cheers - Neil

[Lignum]

I also use low speed with fine grit (1200+) for a final cut of a newly polished surface before applying EEE-Ultra Shine as the final cut 'n' polish of a finish. The lower speed seems stops the finish from clogging the abrasive so readily. Use a light hand and check abrasive regularly for clogging when doing this.

Neil i was doing the same last week on a slab of Huon using a 2000# (trying all the speeds) with the EEE and i found the 2000# pad to be grabbing. Is their any reason not to sprinkle a few drops of oil to stop that.

. I have a Festool which is brilliant. I have also had (and killed) a number of cheap and mid range ones. I can tell you without a shadow of doubt there is a definite difference. Not only with the quality of the tool but the ease and comfort of use and the final finish.

Cheers - Neil

I got a 150/3 two weeks ago and im blown away by the quality of finish. I was never a fan of the older festo sanders as they were good but over priced for what they done. This little sander is just sensational. And the ballance and comfort in the hand is second to none. definetly a 10/10

[felixe]

Isn't the ROS 150/3 just brilliant. I got mine for my B'day in Sept last year, and was on the forum talking up how great it was.

If you get a chance, pickup the firm felt pad ( it is actually made for the Rotex) I used it for polishing, and with the 150/3 on medium speed it does an excellent job!

[havenoideaatall]

I've got the Metabo 425SEX oops 425SXE and I love it. Couldn't justfy the Duo. It's the first tool I've owned, apart from a Makita Drill, where I can see that a bit of money does sometimes get you a better tool.

I used it for seconds and realised I had bought well. The weight, the quality - and it was 70 bucks off too.

Haveno

PS I use it flat out too, seconds is all is needed on a pass. I had a go on my F17 workbench top with 180 grit and was amazed.

[ubeaut]

Yep 150/3 EQ bloody brilliant.

Lignum. I put the EEE on with a rag and buff with one of the Swansdown Mops
I don't use the EEE with the ROS. Never even thought of doing it like that, but reckon it would be a bit harsh.

[martrix]

I got a 150/3 two weeks ago and im blown away by the quality of finish. I was never a fan of the older festo sanders as they were good but over priced for what they done. This little sander is just sensational. And the ballance and comfort in the hand is second to none. definetly a 10/10

+1.......nothing short of awesome. Pleasure to use, brilliant finish and dust free!

[soundman]

I'vce had a metabo duo for a number of years now and have given it a fair hammering.... it is one of those....... Haa Ha ha ha tools.

I find that regardless of grit I select the speed depending on agression required.
Sometimes you get faster results being less agressive.
I will mostly use it on high speed. Be carefull while a good ROS is well mannered they are very agressive and remove a lot of material fast... it may not seem that way beacuse they dont tend to dig holes like other machines.... but they are agressive........ that said they can go thru abrasives at a very solid rate.

I will run on lower speeds when doing later passes where I need more controll and slower action.
I will use it on low speed on edges...... ROS isn't good away from a flat surface anywhere the pad isn't completely supported.... I go slower.

If you arent using a vac with the machine, you are missing about 50% of the benifit of a ROS......the dust extraction is very good & the performance is far better with a vac.

cheers