House cladding

[gregt]

I'm looking at cladding a house in James Hardie Hardieplank. Fibre cement weather board lookalike. What is the best method for external and internal corners. There seems to be wooden battens, pvc angles, aluminum angles or snap on pvc corners. Also individual aluminum int/ext corners. Do you see a problem laying it over the existing asbestos with sarking between? A bloke said the CSIRO recommend leaving it in place as it is more of a hazard removing and disposing of properly. A lot less work leaving it there.
Regards
Greg

[Bleedin Thumb]

Its all personal choice...... I prefer to use a timber batten 45 x 25mm and butt the boards up to it, simple, cheap and neat.

As far as leaving it there - probably the way to go - as you say easier and a hell of a lot cheaper but a bit of a pain to fix through. Use the little mounting hooks and fibro nails so you hang your boards up. They look a bit weird but once you paint you dont see them.

[silentC]

Definitely leave the fibro. It's safe enough as long as you don't disturb it.

For the internal corners, I have used a 25mm square batten and for external, I have used 45x25 as per Bleedin Thumb. However, I think it's worth the extra trouble to go a bit wider than that and rip one down, then butt it up against the other so that you have an equal width when looking from either side of the corner, if that makes sense.

On the current house, I got a bit of zinc folded up to form a corner. It's 60x60 on the outside, with a 30mm return each side to cover the edge of the board and then a 25mm flange to nail it to the stud. Worked well and satisfied the requirements we have here for non-flammable exterior materials.

Like this:

[thebuildingsurv]

I have used the PVC angles, however you need to fill them up with no more gaps as the spiders love nesting in them, how will your architraves and door jambs go leving the existing cladding there?

[gregt]

Thanks guys. I was thinking about using those offset hanging thingies but was unsure what they would look like. They set the board overlap and no external nails (or broken boards). Sounds good. I was going to use my new toy (nail gun) to put the boards on but this may be easier and neater. Can I still use it to put the clips on? Will go down to a 50mm nail. I'm a bit trigger happy at the moment.
Since I'm putting new aluminium windows in the architraving will need to be redone. Anyway as it is a bit sad. How straight do the side walls need to be? I've heard of people using packers to get it reasonable. What is reasonable?
Regards
Greg

[silentC]

Have you looked at primeline? A little bit more expensive than the standard Hardies stuff but not much and it looks heaps better in my opinion. They have two different installation methods. The one I used has a PVC spline in the bottom of each board which sits on and locks it to the board below. You nail through the top of the board only - could use your gun for that. Is it a coil nailer?

[Bleedin Thumb]

Greg i dont think you will be able to use your gun unless its the type that the nail sticks out so you can line up the hole.
Besides you will need fibro nails - they have a flattened end so they dont crack the fibro and I doubt that you can get them for nail guns...I may be wrong.

[silentC]

I doubt that you can get them for nail guns

You can get them for a coil nailer.

[silentC]

http://www.jameshardie.com.au/Produc...eLineCladding/

Check the fixing manual link at the bottom of the page. Has details of all cladding types, including HardiPlank.

Basically, you'll need a coil nailer. Actually, we hand nailed ours. It's a lot easier to do up a ladder with a nail bag and a hammer than trying to drag a nail gun and hose everywhere.

[gregt]

Yeh, only have a framing gun. Bargain on E-bay for what I need. $110. Done 1000 nails and jammed once on the last nail when I ran the strip out. The front of the house currently has Primeline heritage. SWOM does not like it (holds the dust on the curved surface) so off it comes and on goes the woodgrain. Will probably save us $1500 this way. How straight do I need to get the planks?
Cheers.

[echnidna]

You need the planks very straight or the house will look crappy

[silentC]

Yeh, only have a framing gun. Bargain on E-bay for what I need. $110. Done 1000 nails and jammed once on the last nail when I ran the strip out. The front of the house currently has Primeline heritage. SWOM does not like it (holds the dust on the curved surface) so off it comes and on goes the woodgrain. Will probably save us $1500 this way. How straight do I need to get the planks?
Cheers.

I don't like the Heritage or Chamfer boards either. They go on flat and look pretty ordinary. I used Newport, which looks like a true weather board. It has a slight recess along the top edge to enhance the shadowline, which gives it a bit of depth that the Heritage board doesn't have.

The top of the range is Linea, which is more like a true weatherboard. It's 16mm thick, so doesn't follow the curves of the wall as much, although you still need to pack or trim studs to get the walls straight. It's not as fussy but more expensive again. Hardiplank is 7.5mm and Primeline is 9mm.