Decking oil home made

[Marc]

Does anyone know a formula for decking oil home made?

[DaveInOz]

Its the same as baby oil - except you have to squeeze the decking a lot harder

[Robert WA]

Dave.

Don't you boil it down first?
The hardest of all is castor oil. You have to boil those castors for weeks to get the oil out.

Marc.

I have used linseed and turps 50/50 for outdoor structures. I don't know of anything that lasts very long so I opt for cheap.

[ozwinner]

Well how do you get engine oil then?


Al

[rodm]

Get lot of engine oil when your pist'n'broke

[Marc]

Considering that decking oil cost over $25 per one litre and $120 per 10 litres, more than premium quality paint, I thought that it makes sense to try to make something up, home made.

Is the alchemist still among the posters?

I have to treat a large treated pine deck that has never had a lick of oil, so I assume I am up for some 20 litres or thereabouts. It is all under cover, but the edges get wet occasionally.

(I did try to boil some castors with no success; I guess I used some skinny specimens with no fat on them)

Linseed oil and turps? Well that is a start.
Anyone has any more elaborate formulas that do not include squeezing timber or boiling wheels?

[glenn k]

Why do you want to oil treated pine?

[RETIRED]

Marc.

In my opinion you are making a rod for your own back.

Contrary to the claims of most manufacturers you will be oiling every 6-12 months.

Leave it to go grey and age gracefully.

My .01 cents worth. Cheap but not easy

[Neil]

's right...... It's treated pine for goodness sake. It's already finished and supposedly rot proofed etc. Putting oil onto it will only make it accept dirt and other marks more readily and help it to attract moisture etc. Leave well enough alone.

Cheers - Neil

[Marc]

Hey guys, thank you for the suggestion not to oil treated pain decking, perhaps you are right, that does not mean I have the choice not to oil it.

I was wondering if anyone had any further suggestion as to how to formulate a cheap home made oil. One suggeted linseed oil thinned with turps. Is there any other possible improovement on that?

[journeyman Mick]

Marc, I was given this recipe by my paint supplier, one of the old time builders up in the Torres Strait uses it on all his work (government contract ATSI housing) and has done so for years. It's not bad, but it's a bit slow drying and won't give as much UV protection as a good commercial brew.

Damn, just went and looked in my note books and I can't find the recipe. From memory this is close:
First coat: linseed/turps 70/30 plus add some terebine to speed drying (can't remember how much terebine)
2nd coat: linseed/turps 90/10 plus terebine
3rd coat: linseed/turps/polyurethane 80/10/10 plus terebine.

Mick

[David L]

Marc
Last year I was talking to a Bloke at a market who makes hardwood outdoor furniture he told me he uses linseed oil, turps,vinegar. 40+40+20 The vinegar is supposed to stop mold on the L S oil.

My experence------L S oil on a step tread and out door table,------- it went black and attracted heat, not the place to be on a hot day

Quote from young lady at paint store ( very knowegable, much respected ) "OH NO !!! NOT linseed oil "

David L

[bitingmidge]

Leave it to go grey and age gracefully.

I have been reading too many of Mick's arty farty books of late I think:

Have just finished STAINING a treated pine deck - (Wattyl deckstain colour :Silver Birch) after first bleaching it with Oxalic Acid. Wiped most of the stain off to make sure the grain was visible of course!

Then one coat of the usual expensive Wattyl deck oil.

Now here's the logic

After a year, the deck was still looking like treated pine, that lovely green colour that is just fine on copper domes on public buildings but not so good on timber decks which one wants to look gracefully aged.

After the next year, the deck oil will be gone, the stain will have started to go a bit powdery and we will have instant graceful age about it. If necessary I'll re-oil every couple of years years to stop the timber drying out too much and going too brittle.

In the meantime it actually looks not too bad- quite "beachy" which was what we were trying to achieve.

To borrow someone else's slogan - I guess I let it age disgracefully.

Cheers,

P

[Cliff Rogers]

G'day.

Not a deck but....

I did up some old timber office furniture about 20 years ago & the old codger I was talking to at a 2nd hand place recommended using the linseed oil, mineral turps,white vinegar mixed up in equal quantities rubbed on with scotchbrite to clean it up & then 2 parts linseed to 1 part mineral turps with a bit of rag to keep it looking nice.
Those chairs looked great & still looked great 15 years later when I sold them. BTW, they didn't get very much attention after the first 3 coats but weren't out in the sun either.

[Marc]

Thank you guys, I already have the boiled linseed oil, (had to make quite a few phone calls before I found someone who did not laugh at the boiled bit, but that is another story. One said that their linseed oil was quite fine and not spoiled at all).

Now the vinegar is intriguing, since it is mostly water, so how do you mix oil and water? Mm must try a little bit first. By the way, Mick finding boiled linseed oil was adventurous enough, finding terebene proved more elusive for now. Must try somewhere else.

About the bleaching with OXalic Acid, wouldn't this attack the nails in the deck? mine are galvanaised and not stainless steel.