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Thread: Bush Poles and Footings
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3rd March 2007, 11:42 PM #1Senior Member
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Bush Poles and Footings
I am soon to start building a deck, with a tin roof over the top. The uprights were going to be treated pine poles at roughly 170mm diameter, but I have found a local place that can supply me with Jarrah Bush Poles for around $80 each, at about the same diameter, so I am hoping to go with these.
As they are 5.4 metres high, they weigh around 200 kilos, I was wondering what the best way to use them is.
Would I be best off using the shark-fin style Post Anchor, and getting a few blokes around to help? And if so, what is the prefered method of erecting the poles?
Or would the best way to go be to dig a deep hole for the footing, and then just drop the pole into the hole, and back-fill with concrete?
Has anybody got any experience in using bush-poles? I am really concerned that it will be too much mucking around to get the poles into place, but I really like the look of them.
Cheers
Jayson.
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4th March 2007, 08:04 AM #2
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4th March 2007, 10:13 AM #3Senior Member
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4th March 2007, 11:07 PM #4
Just dunk the end in a bucket of creosote first.
Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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5th March 2007, 04:33 AM #5
If its Jarrah as in 'eucalyptus marginata' my notes say - termite resistant & ok for in ground use.
Peter Clarkson
www.ausdesign.com.au
This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.
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5th March 2007, 11:14 AM #6Senior Member
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5th March 2007, 11:51 AM #7
another important question you should ask is how to lift these heavy poles up to put them in the holes
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5th March 2007, 12:05 PM #8
My wife calls me many things . . . but never Poindexter !
She tapped me on the shoulder the other night & said - Honey.
I thought . . hello, but that's what she wanted on her toast. !
The size of the pad is determined by the amount of load on the pole from the area it's supporting. The depth of the hole is determined by the type of soil & the depth required to achieve the required resistance.
If the pole requires lateral bracing then there may be a requirement for bulk concrete of a certain size & depth, over riding the normal founding depth to enable the bracing to be met.
Not being very helpful but you've asked a very open ended question.Peter Clarkson
www.ausdesign.com.au
This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.
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5th March 2007, 03:18 PM #9Senior Member
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I'll have a quick look in the Staynes manual tonight, see if they cover this. I know they have a section of footings, but up until now, I onyl read the bit about conrete footings and stirrups.
Cheers for the help, you have been great.
My wife call me many things too.... but never late for dinner!!
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5th March 2007, 03:19 PM #10Senior Member
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5th March 2007, 03:31 PM #11
Make an A frame, doesn't have to be as high as the post but near enough. Put the end of the pole over the hole. Lie the A frame down on top of the pole with the feet a few feet away from the post hole and anchor it with a couple of stakes. Tie a rope around the top of the pole, leave a bit of slack (about the same as the distance of the A frame feet from the post hole then tie it to the top of the A frame. Pull the other end of the rope. A frame stands up, then pulls the pole up. Might have to trial and error the distance from the hole and the length of rope between the pole and the A frame.
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6th March 2007, 05:01 PM #12
Holding bushpoles
Spelunx, A guy at the local pub told me that the thing to do is to construct the woodwork and have the poles in place(using the a frame Silent C described) or someting else connected to their bearers etc and the last thing you do is to concrete in the area around the poles. It sounded so counter cultural that I though it must be a good idea. The informant at the pub is a draftsman and former carpenter.
Termites will eat almost anything, including our phone cable when in Perth, but they will eat other things before Jarrah if they can see them on the menu.
Cheers,
MichaelLast edited by Michael Breen; 6th March 2007 at 05:03 PM. Reason: finding out name of previous poster
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6th March 2007, 10:47 PM #13Senior Member
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Hey SilentC.
Thanks for this fantastic response, I wasn't quite expecting this level of technical detail, more along the lines of "You get an old Holden ute, and push them up with the roo-bar".
I kind-of get what you are saying, but not quite. Could you perhaps link to a site, or post a diagram? I will try a quick Google as well, and if I turn up anything, will post it here.
Cheers
Jayson.
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6th March 2007, 10:55 PM #14Senior Member
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I can see what he is getting at, and I think I would probably give it a go on a smaller job..... however the idea of having a deck 2+ metres above the ground, with nothing but the house to stop it wobbling around, kind-of makes me nervous...
I am getting a semi-retired builder, who does errrrr 'cash consultancy' on the side to help me out, but he is primarily a roofer, not a deck-builder, although he has done a bit of it before.
As to the advice about Termites, I will keep that in mind, and encourage my next-door neighbour to build a hosue out of tassie oak or something....
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