making a non-standard door cheaply?

[pawnhead]

Most doors, internal or external are made to a standard size of 880mm wide and then increase or decrease by increments of 50mm.

From the Corinthian website: -

Standard sizes:
Door sizes: 2040 x 870/820/770/720/620/520†/460†/420† x 35mm.
http://www.cordoors.com.au/pdf/nat_impressions.pdf

Don't waste your time even trying to make a door because the materials will cost you more at retail price.:

Well I was quoted about $6,000 (about $1000 a door) for my bifold doors and windows, but I built and installed them myself for about $1,500 including the track system, glazing and all the hardware and door furniture. I’ve yet to post the cost breakdown in the thread, but I’ll do it soon. Of course they are much higher than a standard door. You can get a standard sized timber (probably some kind of maple) glazed panel from Doors Plus for about $120 per leaf when they are on special. If you shopped around you could get the materials for slightly less, but the real savings come from when you need a tailor made door, and your time spent making them isn't a huge concern.

The bonus is that you can stand back with a beer in hand, take a look at them, and say "I built those doors myself, just the way I wanted them".

And finally, dont use MDF for an external application-IT WILL SWELL!:doh

Whilst I wouldn’t use an MDF blank in an exposed external application, HMR MDF is suitable for use in steamy bathrooms where it may get wet occasionally. It’s also quite common to have MDF inside an external door, and it’s quite common for the MDF to be exposed after the door has been routed with a fancy profile. Whilst they probably would swell if the protective coating breaks down, a ply external door, or a joinery door would start to crack and split and fall apart if its coating breaks down as well. Maintain the door properly and you shouldn’t have problems.

William Russell Doors - Craftline Range
All doors are constructed with Pre-primed. Highly Moisture Resistant M.D.F. and Timber Internal Frames.
This range gives you a strong, durable entrance door suited to a quality paint finish.
http://www.google.com.au/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&q=mdf+doors&btnG=Search&meta=cr%3DcountryAU

Armstrong’s
PAINT DOORS
EXTERNAL:
Medium Density Fibreboard – 12mm MDF Semi Solid Construction. All doors are Routed BOTH sides
and Moulded one Side. B - denotes Raised Panels
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...u&ct=clnk&cd=7

Corinthian may use it as well, but I can't find any details on their website.

Solid MDF door blanks are quite cheap for their size, and I wouldn’t have a problem using them externally if they were suitably coated and maintained, and were under cover, and not exposed to direct rain except occasionally under extreme conditions. If you edge stripped it with solid timber, using a good quality glue, and kept an eye on the coating and the edge strip so that it doesn't crack or peal off, then it would be as good as any timber door, but If you don't look after a timber door that's in an exposed environment, then it's going to fall apart no matter what it's made of.

[TermiMonster]

920 x 2040 is definately a standard door size. Any retailer who stocks doors will be able to get one of that size if they don't have it in stock. Style, material etc is another matter. Unlikely that you would be able to compete in cost making it yourself, but you may want something of non-standard timber etc, that is up to you.

[pawnhead]

Most doors, internal or external are made to a standard size of 880mm wide

G'day chipsy.
I think you meant to say 870mm.


Sorry, but I can be pretty anal sometimes.

[rona]

Michael,
Having made hundreds of doors, both flush panel with bolection moulds and framed doors with glass panels etc during my years in the joinery shop, there is no way that I would attempt to make one at home nowadays, without
machines to keep them straight without twist and also square.
I have also hung hundreds in my time too, and if they are not straight and are out of square or twisted they are very difficult to do anything with.
After all that useless info, what I am trying to say is forget about the price and buy one that has been manufactured and is hopefully not twisted etc, then if need be add an extra strip to the sides. Make sure they are weatherproof, which is only a stamp on the edge and you don't really know, except it will be 3 times the price and 3 months down the track the ply will start to peel off.
OK Michael I hope this has helped.

Cheers,
Ron.

[BrisBen]

Go to corinthinan and buy a 2100 x 920 blokdor and cut it down to suit

they come in ready coat, paintable ply and a limited mumber of veneers

these doors can be cut an planed to virtually any size because to the way they are constructed - I have even cut an rebated one to make a barn type door (bottom half closed top half open)

They are solid and heavy but will do the trick for around 130 buks from memory

Oh btw - they also make fine temporary tabletops

[totoblue]

920 x 2040 is definately a standard door size.

Yes, Fowles Timber lists 920 wide doors (they even list 1020 wide doors).

http://www.fowlestimber.com.au/fowlestimber_2.pdf

Joining 2 doors would be a pain and it wouldn't look very good either IMHO.

As an aside, in my limited experience, solid core doors have staples and/or nails in them and if you cut off more than about 10mm off them you might hit metal so use a circular saw rather than a planer as a planer blade is wrecked by metal whereas a saw blade is a bit tougher.

[Cabbie]

My grandfather asked me to make him a custom size door for his garage as the one he had on there was rotting because it wasn't weather durable like it was supposed to be. The prices he was quoted were quite ridiculous so I made him one out of 33mm HMR Particle Board used 2x1 meranti for the outer edges and then Laminated some cheap white laminate over the front and back. I then did a 5mm radius on all the edges and it was fine. He hung it painted it and was quite happy with it. I did that for around 150 bucks not including labour. It was a lot better than the 300-500 he was quoted. HMR btw stands for High Moisture Resistance where it has to be used in a wet area. After he painted it looks fine is solid as hell and I think it will outlast the door he had there by 3 times as long without a problem. MDF is no good for external doors and there has been more and more places selling MDF Veneer doors which I just keep looking at as a recipe for disaster unless it is well lacquered and kept lacquered every couple yrs.

[pawnhead]

HMR btw stands for High Moisture Resistance where it has to be used in a wet area. After he painted it looks fine is solid as hell and I think it will outlast the door he had there by 3 times as long without a problem. MDF is no good for external doors and there has been more and more places selling MDF Veneer doors which I just keep looking at as a recipe for disaster unless it is well lacquered and kept lacquered every couple yrs.

Well here is a picture of my front door which is about 15>20 yrs old. It's an external grade routed door with ply facing and HMR MDF inside the guts around the routings.



As you can see it's starting to fall apart. The ply is lifting all over the place, and the MDF is swelling where it's routed. I'd trust your particle board door even less under the same conditions.
If you're going to put a clear coating on an external door, then you really need to sand it back and re-coat every year or so. If you're going to paint it a solid colour, then keep an eye on it for cracking and deterioration, and you may get away with re-painting it every five or ten years. If it's a solid timber joinery door then it may last longer, but of course rot will set in to all the joints after a while if you don't look after it.

My front door hasn't had a re-coat since the day it was installed and it's still solid as a rock. It just looks a bit shabby. I don't really care about its maintenance because it was as ugly as a dog in the first place. I intend to build a new solid timber (real McCoy) joinery door sometime anyway.

But I have no doubt that if it had been maintained properly, then it would look as good now, as the day it was bought. It's in a very exposed position with no roof, and no eaves overhang. In other words, it cops a lot of weather (rain, wind and solar, facing North).
I also have no doubt, that with a bit of attention, and a coat of paint, I could make it look like a 'bought one' again.

Cheers

[mic-d]

Thanks for all the replies folks. I'd like to put this to bed now!! Not long after the post I found Corinthian did a 920 block board door at a good price so problem solved.

Cheers
Michael

[Cabbie]

Well here is a picture of my front door which is about 15>20 yrs old. It's an external grade routed door with ply facing and HMR MDF inside the guts around the routings.



As you can see it's starting to fall apart. The ply is lifting all over the place, and the MDF is swelling where it's routed. I'd trust your particle board door even less under the same conditions.
If you're going to put a clear coating on an external door, then you really need to sand it back and re-coat every year or so. If you're going to paint it a solid colour, then keep an eye on it for cracking and deterioration, and you may get away with re-painting it every five or ten years. If it's a solid timber joinery door then it may last longer, but of course rot will set in to all the joints after a while if you don't look after it.

My front door hasn't had a re-coat since the day it was installed and it's still solid as a rock. It just looks a bit shabby. I don't really care about its maintenance because it was as ugly as a dog in the first place. I intend to build a new solid timber (real McCoy) joinery door sometime anyway.

But I have no doubt that if it had been maintained properly, then it would look as good now, as the day it was bought. It's in a very exposed position with no roof, and no eaves overhang. In other words, it cops a lot of weather (rain, wind and solar, facing North).
I also have no doubt, that with a bit of attention, and a coat of paint, I could make it look like a 'bought one' again.

Cheers

The key to the way I did it is it was putting meranti all around the edges of the board and laminating both sides of the door. This won't allow the moisture to get through to the particle board as easily as if it was exposed. MDF is very tightly packed and when an edge or routered bit of it is exposed it will soak up the water very rapidly. Particle Board is different in where it will soak up the water but won't swell as much or as quick and breaks down and crumbles away. The flat surface is on either materials betetr at resisisting water than what the edges or routered parts are. Anyhow the door I made had all exposed areas covered by laminate or meranti and also coated rather thickly in outdoor paint. I don't see it falling apart for a very long time. A door that lasts 15-20 yrs in an exposed area such as your one is extremely good. With a bit more care couldda lasted a lot longer too. I am just going off experience. All the materials used to make doors all have their advantages and disadvantages. Most outside doors in a really exposed area won't last much longer than 20 yrs if they are left with no care. My grandparents old door was a hollow core door and only lasted maybe 8 yrs at the most it really should not have been used where it was.

[Geelong demo]

2nd hand