Results 16 to 20 of 20
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16th February 2007, 12:15 AM #16
One thing to understand about reactive oils like linseed is that once its off, you've got bucklies of disolving it with any solvent.
So
wash your brush uot promtly and thouroghly, beat out as much turps as you can then wash it again in clean clear turps. then do what ever else you do.
I do like thinners for cleaning brushes too.
If you have a brush that is getting a bit unhappy...... use it for applying contact cement then wash it out.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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16th February 2007, 08:29 AM #17Retired
- Join Date
- May 1999
- Location
- Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
- Age
- 74
- Posts
- 2,515
There is a product that is better than thinners: Gun wash, it is thinners on steroids.
Cleans things with dried paint real good.
Soundy, I buy el cheapo brushes for contact cement and throw 'em away. Same with fibreglass.
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16th February 2007, 09:19 AM #18
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17th February 2007, 09:28 PM #19
I also use cheap disposable brushes for contact cement but it washes out so easily I do so.
I have a hook with a half a dozen or so cheap brushes on it.... when I need one I grab it and use it.... if it goes off ... I just grab another.I then stuff all the used brushes in a jar of turps overnight.... wash em out & put em bach on the hook...
Gun wash and all sorts of funky stuff can be got from you local auto refinish supplier..... I think gun wash is recycled thinner that has had some extra nasty stuff like MEK added so it bites.
cheers
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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21st February 2007, 09:28 PM #20I don't like using steel wool. If it catches and you leave a little strand it will rust.
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BrettC
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