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  1. #16
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    Aug 2003
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    Conder, ACT
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    78
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    4,213

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    DO NOT FORGET that the line from the tank to the pump must be flexible or you will split the tank at the outlet flange.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    61
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    Hi everyone,
    Thanks for all the help so far. I think I will drop the idea of a concrete base and go with the manufacturers recommendation of the sand base.

    Seems to be the norm from what you have all said. Makes sense about the sand allowing the bottom of the tank to mould itself into the sand.

    My only problem now is what to mount the pump on. There is nothing but earth where the tank will be installed so I am not sure what to do about this. I could put it around the corner but that will make it 3-4 metres away from the tank.
    Would this have any effect on the pumping power? Or does it make no difference what the distance of the pumpp is from the tank?

    Cheers
    tourgy

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    59
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    5,026

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    You can buy small pre-cast slabs about 400mm square and a couple of inches thick at hardware or building supplies.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
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    65
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    1,248

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    Quote Originally Posted by tourgy View Post

    but that will make it 3-4 metres away from the tank.
    Would this have any effect on the pumping power? Or does it make no difference what the distance of the pump is from the tank?

    Cheers
    tourgy
    Very little unless the feed pipes daimeter is so small that the friction caused by 3-4m of line reduces flow - very unlikely, given the pump is being fed with positive pressure from the tank. It would be a different situation if the pump was above the water source.

    Assuming the pump will still be sitting on the same level as if it were beside the tank you should get the same amount of head from it.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Moonta Bay in the Copper Triangle, S. Australia
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    0

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    Depending on how high you need to go, which is governed by the top of the tank in relation to your roof guttering, you could look into one of thos ready made concrete culverts. Check out your local pre-stressed concrete people. These things are shape like a square U and placed upside down. They act like a table for your tank, and the underneath area can be used for a doghouse, or firewood box etc:

    If you use sand, it must be gently watered in then "critters" will have little effect. You might want to put a membrane between the sand and the tank as well. In the old galv days, we used tar-paper.
    Buzza.

    "All those who believe in psycho kinesis . . . raise my hand".

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

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    screw the pump down to a short piece of sleeper and just let it all sit on the ground
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4

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    All interesting stuff, but what does the manufacturer of the tank you have bought recommend?

    I have seen other manufacturer (Clark Tanks) recommend the following

    1. Ensure the location of the tank is level, stable ground which has uniform compaction (free of soft spots). Do not locate large water tanks close to retaining walls or embankments without first consulting a professional engineer to ensure the ground is capable of supporting the weight of the full tank.
    2. Ensure the surface of the site is free from sharp objects or stones and is compacted.
    3. Spread a thin layer (approx. 20-40mm) of 3mm metal/crusher dust – bedding sand can be used but is prone to erosion – evenly over the level ground, at least 500mm more than the diameter of the tank. Once it is compacted and level you may then place the tank directly on top of this material. To assist with reducing soil erosion, back fill to first rib.
    4. Ensure the metal/crusher dust is contained under the tank at all times and cannot be washed away. This can be achieved by diverting all run-off water away from the site and retaining the metal/crusher dust with some form of retaining structure e.g. cement strip, rocks or sleepers.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Queensland, Aus
    Age
    72
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    97

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    Tourgy,
    The last thing I'd claim is to be is an expert on water tanks, but with the way this drought is going I think we'll all be a little wiser in the near future.
    I've just installed a 5000 litre poly tank on a cracker dust base and I think that's the way to go.
    I think if you use concrete it needs to reinforced because if and when it does crack the pieces don't move relative to one another in the vertical direction. I reckon the same would go for pavers etc, I think that if there is vertical movement you'd get a shearing force applied to the base of the tank and I'm guessing it could tear.
    Anyway the cracker dust is cheap and easy to put down.
    Here's a couple of pics which may be of some assistance

    Ian

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    61
    Posts
    19

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    Thanks for all the help so far.

    Like I mentioned earlier i will go with the manufacturers recommendation of a bed of river sand. But I do like the look of what Ian Smith has done.

    Ian, Has that cracker dust been compacted with something? Or did you just lay it down and level it out before putting the tank on it.

    I was going to make a border of house bricks, But may use something like what Ian has done as they are a bit larger and basically gets about the height I wanted off the ground. What are those concrete looking bricks called?

    As far as where the tank will be located it will be at the back of the house as this is about the only lcation I have where it will collect a good amount of water. I Intend to put it about 30-50 cms away from the main wall. It will be rather unsightly. I can post a picture later.
    This wont be a problem will it? As far as I can tell the earth around here is clay and very very hard. I tried to dig a small hole out the front once and gave up it was so hard.

    The company is http://www.waterstore.com.au/index.asp and the price of the 4500 litre tank was $895 delivered with some fittings supplied.

    Bit nervous of the location now because yes, when full it will be very heavy.

    Cheers
    Tourgy

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    54
    Posts
    265

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    Tourgy those large looking brick thingys are called Besser blocks. The crusher dust would need to be compacted with a plate compacter. If you dont the middle will sink and damage your tank. Proximity to the house is not an issue, you HAVE to make sure the tank has a level base to sit on.

    If you consider a tank to be unsightly then just put a sheet of mesh around the 'visible' side and grow a passionfruit vine or a climbing rose or a potato vine or a star jasmine vine over it. One of these will have it covered in no time.

    Pete
    If you are never in over your head how do you know how tall you are?

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Queensland, Aus
    Age
    72
    Posts
    97

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    Tourgy,
    Yep, zackery wot Doughboy sez

    Ian

  12. #27
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    61
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    19

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    Thanks for the clarification on those bricks Doughboy and Ian.

    As I dont have access to a compactor I may just go with the sand. Reading the instructions from the manufacturer they recomend a border of some sort of bricks then the sand. It does not mention anything about compacting it.

    But they recommend the border of bricks after the tank is in its resting spot. Basically says build a level of sand 50-100 mm high, put the tank on, then border it with bricks.

    Cheers
    Tourgy

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    63
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    2,026

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    tourgy,
    without a compactor your best bet would be to build a border and use fine sharp sand (plasterer's sand is ideal) and water it in. This will compact it. Don't use river sand as it's usually coarse and rounded and will not compact.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  14. #29
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    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    I dont have access to a compactor
    Just about any plant hire place will have them for hire. As you're in Melbourne, I'm guessing there's a Kennards or similar in a suburb near you!

  15. #30
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    Aug 2006
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by journeyman Mick View Post
    tourgy,
    without a compactor your best bet would be to build a border and use fine sharp sand (plasterer's sand is ideal) and water it in. This will compact it. Don't use river sand as it's usually coarse and rounded and will not compact.

    Mick

    That shows up the problem with local names for different products - sands in particular.

    In Sydney River Sand - especially course washed river sand is used for paving bedding and is very compactable.

    Beach Sand on the other hand is not compactable being fine, which is different to Perth I think?

    Its all to do with the Gap Gradient Particle Size but you all know that, don't you.

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