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Thread: fixing a ceiling hole
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15th February 2007, 11:58 PM #16
John,
worked about ten months on a large commercial project for a plasterboard company. (For some unfathomable reason they also picked up a few joinery contracts). In the heat up here both basecoat and cornice cement go off pretty quickly. Some of the plasterers used to add citric acid or even lemon juice as a retarder. It wasn't by the book, but then I don't think the book was written with high 30s/low 40s temperatures in mind.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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16th February 2007, 12:52 AM #17
quality + reliability
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
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- Melbourne
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Interesting subject.
All plaster has some retarder in it, (as well as a lot of other stuff).
Citric acid is a good retarder as it won't stain, like milk which is also a retarder. Lemon juice also works well.
When using a retarder you need to be carefull that the plaster is actually setting an not drying. It is not a good idea to use retader in hot weather. If the plaster dries before it sets then it is weakened, sometimes to the point that cornice will fall off the wall.
I have seen this happen on quite a few occasions. When retarding base coat the problems are not so apparent. Cracking can definitly occur if retarder is used in the wrong conditions.
In a way during hot weather it would be better using smaller mixes and use an accellerator like salt. to ensure setting as opposed to drying.
Having said that I doubt that a contractor would ever do it. They really can't afford to slow it down. But it would be better.
Personally I never use retarder on decorative cornice, mainly because the cornice sucks the moisture out of the plaster, creating more chance of the mix drying rather than setting.
When trowlling in hot weather we use a drying compond (all purpose mix), this solves the problem, no need to retard all purpose compounds.
Cheers.
PS great work pawn.Great plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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16th February 2007, 08:26 AM #18
New Member
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- Feb 2007
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- Brooklyn, NY
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celing fan help
The bristles on the brush have to lay flat. Perhaps you need to wet it thoroughly and leave it overnight on a piece of plywood with the bristles splayed out.
Home renovations are easier than you think.
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5th May 2007, 02:06 AM #19
Senior Member
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- Oct 2006
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- perth
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Hi all
An update - I haven't done the ceiling hole yet - I did pick up an off cut from a building site tho - next week.
The Kitchen - I got some gyprock final finish and some cornice cement.
I opened the final finish to have a look - it is all creamy and caramel coloured made me hungry
I gave it a go 1st and yippee its great, I applied one thin cost flush will the good bits of the wall and filling the holes, it goes on really easy.
Today I gave it a light sand and a second light coat and it came up a treat. One more light sand and it ready for painting.
Some photos - note it's the creamy coloured area - the bits you will see above and around the cupboards, also the area on the right on the big wall still needs a second coat.
celeste
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5th May 2007, 12:52 PM #20
quality + reliability
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17th May 2007, 01:48 AM #21
Senior Member
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Hi all
Well I finished the wall plaster and added some paint today - looking good.
Not so lucky with the ceiling fan hole, the patch piece dropped a littleto late all set
so I am using cornice cement etc and trying to make it less noticable (is this spelt right - looks funny). I did the final coat today and will sand it and see tomorrow - Hopefully the kitchen will look so good no one will notice
I will post some photos in the next couple of days
Celeste
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17th May 2007, 01:43 PM #22
quality + reliability
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- Jul 2006
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Celeste if you used the cleats and screwed the patch to them it should not have droped at at all.
For anyone else reading this, you can slip a thin packer between the cleat and the ceiling sheet. That will recess the patch the thickness of the packer used.
Celeste you can use a scraper to scape back the bump almost until you get to the tape then fill out away from the bump (top coat will do) quite wide, to reduce the effect.
Good luck with it.
CheersGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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17th May 2007, 07:20 PM #23
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[quote=rod@plasterbrok;512416]Celeste if you used the cleats and screwed the patch to them it should not have droped at at all.
No, I didn't I got lazy and used a couple of pieces of plaster and liquid nails........naughty me.
For anyone else reading this, you can slip a thin packer between the cleat and the ceiling sheet. That will recess the patch the thickness of the packer used.
I will recess it a little on the next one - easy to fill than scrape back.
Celeste you can use a scraper to scape back the bump almost until you get to the tape then fill out away from the bump (top coat will do) quite wide, to reduce the effect quote]
Exactly what I have done- did not get to sanding it today, had the little one with me, she woke up with a bit of a temp. So she watched mummy paint and build cabinets from the comfort of her bean bag. Only clean place for her was the Kitchen so I could not make big clouds of plaster dust. Tomorrow.
I will have all the base cabinets installed, the walls all painted and the ceiling finished tomorrow, so I will take some photo's and post them.
Celeste
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22nd May 2007, 10:13 PM #24
Senior Member
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Hi all
Well I have finished the walls in the kitchen and installed most of the cabinets - 3 overheads to go, IKEA gave me the wrong one and it goes in the corner so the other 2 will have to wait until I switch them.!!
any way heres some pictures 2 B4 and 3 after
Thanks for your help guys, I am pretty pleased with the walls - don't look at the ceiling, still need to sand and paint. I got a bit frustrated with it and have decided to leave it until I get back from my break in lovely warm Broome all refreshed.
Oh and there are a couple of my 1st attempt at limestone garden edge /wall.
Celeste
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