Eave lining

[OBBob]

Hi All

I was looking at the original part of my house today (because I copy) and I noticed it appears that the lining between the tiles and the rafters ... what you see when you look up under the eves ... appears to actually be layed on top of the rafters. I had though until now that it was actually on battens between the rafters.

So am I actually correct? Is it possible / correct to put down a lining on top of the rafters out over the eve section ... then the tilers put their battens and tiles on top of that?

Further ... on a 1920 house what would the toungue and grove lining timber be ... is it available or should I use cement sheet (i'd prefer that but not sure it would look as nice)?

Thanks.

[Tools]

Yes, eaves are sometimes done like that,in much the same way as ceiling lining can be done on top of the rafters where the rafters are exposed.

Tools

[OBBob]

Thanks ... do you know what materials are common? I guess you could use cement sheet. But the rest of the house is soem sort of t&g ... I wouldn't expect pine would be weatherable enough ... maybe cedar? But what is commonly available these days?

[markclad]

Pine would most probaly be ok as its up and under the eave and wouldnt really get wet. Most probaly would be the chepest. Can also get in a plywood form which is used for exterior panneling.

[pawnhead]

Yes, it's very common to use T&G V groove pine for eaves linings. The tilers have to rebate their battens over it, then install a fibro strip on top of barge boards to cement the edges of their tiles down to. It's important to protect the pine from the weather until it's covered by sarking and tiles though. Water damage is bad, and so is what happens to it when exposed to too much sunlight. They can warp and distort quite easily when exposed, mkay.

It also helps to prime the backs to seal them and prevent them from cupping by having only one surface sealed, but that's not always done.

[AndrewPatrol]

and they are laid v-groove side up so that they look the same as the part you're copying

[OBBob]

Yep .. thanks ... got that bit.

One other thing I need to do is put on a tilt batten at the end of the rafters. I don't eactly understand the point of it ... could someone give me an explanation?

Attached is a diagram ... it is a 90 x 45mm ripped on the diagonal and I believe the ripped side goes down against the rafter ... is that the correct orientation?

Thanks!

[pawnhead]

A tilt batten is called a 'belcast batten' and it's purpose is to give the last tile the same fall as all the rest. You see the last tile doesn't sit on a lower tile so it needs to be supported at a higher point on the plane.
I've made an illustration that explains how it should be done. You'll see an anti ponding board used to give the sarking proper fall into the gutter. The anti ponding board is usually Hardiflex.
You'll see that the batten on top of the V groove boards has to be thinner than the rest.
If there is a fascia board attached, then the belcast batten is nailed on top of it.
You can put the V groove boards either way up. One side has a V groove in the middle which gives the appearance of a narrower board.

[OBBob]

Thanks pawnhead ... helpful as always.

I was trying to work out why they were concerned about this batten going on before the guttering ... but I can see from you diagram that if it wasn't there the gutters would end up a bit lower so the water off the tiles may overshoot the gutters in heavy falls.

[pawnhead]

My mistake, it's spelled with a double L.

Bellcast batten

edit: -

I was trying to work out why they were concerned about this batten going on before the guttering ... but I can see from you diagram that if it wasn't there the gutters would end up a bit lower so the water off the tiles may overshoot the gutters in heavy falls.

Exactly. That's why the usual course of events is that the roof carpenter installs the bellcast batten and anti ponding board (not often installed, for cost cutting), then the roof plumber installs the gutter from the top of the bellcast, then the tiler installs the sarking, the rest of the battens, and tiles into the gutter.

[OBBob]

It's important to protect the pine from the weather until it's covered by sarking and tiles though. Water damage is bad, and so is what happens to it when exposed to too much sunlight. They can warp and distort quite easily when exposed, mkay.

It also helps to prime the backs to seal them and prevent them from cupping by having only one surface sealed, but that's not always done.

Hi Pawnhead ... I have painted both sides of the boards and put them up. They are big eaves so there are 6 long rows and the joins have been staggered and they are well nailed to the rafters. I have les than 2 weeks until the roof is on (I hope) so would I need to protect them any further?

I was going to cover in black plastic but I didn't have enough and its been so windy here today it probably wouldn't last the nigth anyway! What'd you think?

[Tools]

I'd cover them if I was you...you don't want them to expand and twist.

Tools

[OBBob]

Yeah ... I'm sure your right ... just wasn't sure because the plastic gets so hot in the sun, would it help? Or does it help retain the moisture?

[pawnhead]

Well the paint would certainly help, but like Tools says it's probably better to be safe than sorry. I've had them twist up before and we had to replace a few of them, but they weren't painted on the back or anything.
A bit of that thin black plastic would be cheaper than having to replace them that's for sure.

[OBBob]

Thanks ... I'm in Melbourne too so it will probably reach 40 degree and snow before the roofs on!!