Floor finishing advice

[Eddie Jones]

About to lay 45m2 of Blue Gum 19mm T&G flooring. I need some advice on finishing. We prefer a low gloss finish. Looking at either "Estapol Tung Oil" or "Scandinavian Teak Oil" ( Both Wattyl). The tung oil would be preferred for the hard wearing, but we like the darker finish of the Teak Oil. Would the Teak Oil alone be sufficiently hard wearing? (lounge/passageway). Or could I apply the Teak Oil first, using it to colour the timber, then the Tung Oil over the top as a protective coat?

Also, any suggestions for a compound to repair/fill cracks, knot holes etc to both match the Blue Gum and be matt finish.

Any other finishing suggestions gratefully received.

Eddie.

[Larry McCully]

Hi eddie, Most hardware stores sell a product called Timbermate. It is avail in most timber colours. It is a putty that is applied into the defect you want to fill and sanded of once it is dry. It is water clean up and is very effective in filling those holes you dont want. It is best to apply the putty prior to coating. You can sand it back using a sanding block or orbital or allow the sanding machine to do the job.
I would strongly recomend using a FEAST WATSON product called ALKATHANE. is a modified tung oil floor finish that will give you the look you are after. It is one of the best tung oil finishes on the market. You use ity in a 3 coat system.1 x coat sanding sealer 2 x coats Alkathane.
Apply the second coat directly over the dried sealer coat . In the second coat mix in 5% mineral turps. This will help the liquid to level out. You can even mix in the turps on the third coat. LIghtly sand in between 2nd and 3rd coat using a orbital sander with 180 or 220 grit paper. Vacumm well and apply the last coat. You will love the results. All the best with it .

[Dusty]

Hi, Eddie.
I'm with Larry all the way on the Timbermate filler if you insist on filling the gaps. Although it does have it's down side.....Learn more

As for finishing, I lean towards polyurethane in a satin finish if you like that low-sheen look.

Here are a couple of snaps two in gloss, two in satin (Although the two in satin are Red Ironbark it is still a very similar colour and grain to the Blue Gum. Hell, they're all Gum trees, right)

The gloss is three coats of Polycure 2pack
The satin is two coats of 2pack and one coat of Polycure Lo-Sheen

[Eddie Jones]

Thanks both for the advice. I'll certainly look at using the Timbermate. Don't intend filling gaps between boards, just larger defects, knot and nail holes etc.Can you answer me a specific question about finishing. I've used Teak Oil on a few things and like the colour it gives to Blue Gum, Karri and similar timbers. But I know the Tung Oil is harder wearing, though not much effect on the timber colour. Can I use Teak Oil, then final coat with Tung after a week or so to dry thoroughly? Will I still get the benefits of both? Or are they not compatible?

[Larry McCully]

Hi Eddie, Well You see, it is not a good practise to mix types of coatings. Problems may occur, one type of oil may not be compatable with the other and delamination between coats may happen. But that doesnt mean it cant be done. I suggest that you do a sampeling and judge for yourself. I would do 3 samples. One with tung oil only .do a full 3 coats to get the tru look for you to judge. second one with teak oil only, also do the recomended coating system, and then do a third sample with teak oil as the first coat and then apply 2x coats of tung oil over the top. allow a couple of days to pass and do a visual and a abreashion test and a delamination test to find the results. This sampeling will give you a better conclusion on what you want to do. Remember that as soon as you work outside of the recomended manufactures advise then you take on the responsability of the end result and performance on yourself. Have a go and let us all know the results.

[Dusty]

Hi Eddie, Well You see, it is not a good practise to mix types of coatings. Problems may occur

That there is your answer, Eddie.

Scandianavian Teak Oil is not a flooring finish. Nor is it a build coat for other coatings.
Scandinavian Teak Oil is a rubbed on Final coat to be used in conjunction with Wattyl Matt Estapol. I love it. I've used this system to do the kids beds and our lounge coffee table. It looks and feels great. But, I would never consider it as a finish on a floor.

Save yourself some grief.
Floor finishes go on floors.
Furniture finishes go on furniture.

[sco]

I've done my timber floors with Kunos oil (from livos.com.au). It's expensive (about 3x tung oil) but coverage is 2.5x tung oil, so it's not too bad. Best thing is it is easy to apply and doesn't stink the house out. Have had it for over 2 years on hoop pine floors in a hall and have not had to recoat yet. Also, have just recently done some hardwood and it is really nice. It is more scratch resistant than than two pack (which I was told is the hardest finish). Best thing is the Kunos really brings the grain of the timber out. You can buy a 500ml bottle and try it on an offcut before committing.

If you do a search for Kunos you'll see some other references to this oil. No association to the company (I'm in IT) ... just a happy customer.

[Dusty]

I've done my timber floors with Kunos oil (from livos.com.au). It's expensive (about 3x tung oil) but coverage is 2.5x tung oil, so it's not too bad. Best thing is it is easy to apply and doesn't stink the house out. Have had it for over 2 years on hoop pine floors in a hall and have not had to recoat yet. Also, have just recently done some hardwood and it is really nice. It is more scratch resistant than than two pack (which I was told is the hardest finish). Best thing is the Kunos really brings the grain of the timber out. You can buy a 500ml bottle and try it on an offcut before committing.

If you do a search for Kunos you'll see some other references to this oil. No association to the company (I'm in IT) ... just a happy customer.

It's over rated, I'm sorry to say, from my research and findings. It's nowhere near as scratch resistant as 2-pack. and, is way too over priced, for what it is.

[sco]

I'm very unhappy with the floors that were done with 2 pack and much happier with the kunos. It's possible that the 2 pack is more resistant to surface scratches but I have found it's more susceptible to dents... maybe the kunos soaks in a bit more and helps strengthen the timber??? Maybe the 2 pack was not done properly?

As I'm living in the house as it's being renovated not having to move out because of fumes is worth the extra money to me. Each to his own.