Fascia

[OBBob]

Hi Guys

Sorry but its stupid question time!

On my extension i have basically neglected to think about fascias. The issue is that I have 240mm rafters, so they are larger than any normal fascia boards. What is the actual point of the fascia? Does it protect the end rafter or can I just use the last rafter as the fascia given the size? Or is it meant to be raised to provide a lip to tile up to ... if so how much?

Any detail appreciated because I'm not quite sure where to find this info and the methods I see used on other houses wouldn't work due to the rafter size.

[Barry_White]

Bob

I gather what you really mean is a Barge board rather than a fascia. If that is the case I gather that the tile battens are sitting on top of the rafters.

If that is the case they usually run a narrow strip of fibro on top of the tile battens the length of the rafter to support the grout to finish the edge of the tiles and then you can fix a normal piece of fascia to the side of the rafter to hide the ends of the tile battensto sit up under the fibro.

Here is a pic of what I mean.

[silentC]

I think you're talking about fascia used as a barge board? ie. it runs perpendicular to the ridge down to the end of the rafter, and is on the same pitch as the roof? It covers the end rafter and on a tin roof the barge cap sits over it and flashes the edge of the roof sheet. As opposed to fascia which runs parallel to the ridge and usually holds up the gutter as well, spanning the ends of all of the rafters.

Not sure of the details regarding tiled roof. For a tin roof, you could leave the end rafter exposed (depending what it is made of) and flash it with a standard tin barge cap. For a tiled roof, you'll have to talk to the roof tiler. You might need to get something made up to suit, either from colorbond or timber. I can't remember if tiled roofs have barge cap or not? If so, you might be able to fit a barge board to cover the rafter and even if there is a gap because the barge board is not wide enough, the barge cap will cover it if it is deep enough. Again, you'd probably need something folded up from colorbond.

[OBBob]

Thanks guys ... that answers my question. You are correct I was confusing fascia with barge board and as a consequence I mistook what the roof tiler was asking for.

[Barry_White]

Another way you can do it is when I was with Lysaghts we used to make up a Barge Tile Flashing and the tiler can run his grout up to the edge of the flashing.

Here is a pic of what I mean.

[OBBob]

What if I attached a smaller section of timber to the front of the rafter, so that it sat up above the top of the rafter like your flashing does. Then the tiler could run up to that and if necessary I could put a decorative beading below it to integrate it with the rafter?

[Barry_White]

What if I attached a smaller section of timber to the front of the rafter, so that it sat up above the top of the rafter like your flashing does. Then the tiler could run up to that and if necessary I could put a decorative beading below it to integrate it with the rafter?

If I understand what you mean so that he can put his grout between that and the tile.

If that is what you mean that is fraught with problems because the flashing that I have drawn is to take any water that ingresses under the tile and directs to the gutter by the flashing with the upturn and the tray of the flashing which should be at least 150mm wide. With the flashing being Colorbond steel the ingress of water under the tile would not be a problem. With timber in that situation it wouldn't be long before you had dry rot setting up.

You would be better going the first senario that I posted in my first post.

If that is not what you mean can you post a quick sketch of what you mean.

[OBBob]

No I figured if I did the timber method in my last post there woiuld have to be some sort of tin flashing run down the inide of the timber board and under the tiles to take the water.

However I think the ide in your first post may work best in my situation. I have a much better understanding of the possibilities now so I'll take it up with the tiler.

[OBBob]

In This Picture thw barge board doesn't cover the rafter completely. Is there something you can pain pine with so that it can be exposed like this? Or should it be completely clad in a suitable timber or metal?

[OBBob]

Hi Guys ... I haven't managed to resolve this one yet ... might be because pawnhead has been off arguing with bricks all week??

- Is there any way of protecting untreated pine (special paint / treatment prodcust) so it can be exposed?

- Could products such as the Cementel Fibre Cement plank be used to clad the last rafter as a barge board?

The last rafter would work perfectly with a smaller section of barge board attached to end the tiles to, howvere it is just a question of the protction requirements for the pine ... any ideas?

[pharmaboy2]

HI, Personally cant see anything wrong with the FC sheet firstly, but secondly, douglas fir/ oregon was used (is?) for pergolas and exterior uses with paint as the only protection, and its a timber that rots etc in very short time.

I mention the oregon because it shows that fully protected with exterior paint protects timber more or less forever as long as the paint is kept up. And therein lies the rub - maintenance!. FWIW you can also get products like emaclad, and various exterior waterprooffing acrylic paints that go on really thick and have very substantial guarantees. 4 or 5 coats of acrylic achieve much the same thing. I have meranti architraving all roun d the exterior of my house, that I have just removed, some rotten, some not, and its been there for 25 yrs, and painted once in that time in a very exposed site. As another example, back doors are not treated, just painted, and if they are cared for they l;ast the life of the building (well except for the hollw core ones?)

[OBBob]

Good Points ... thanks.

[silentC]

What's the barge board made from? If it's pine you're going to have to keep the paint up to it anyway. A couple of coats of solar guard will seal it OK.

Otherwise, maybe you could get a flashing made up from colorbond. All my fascias are colorbond = no painting ever.

My grandfather built a place that used oregon rafters, with the end one exposed. The barge board was also oregon. It was neglected paint-wise for years and the end of the rafter has started to rot away. The nails holding the barge on rusted through at one end and it came down. It is a two story place hence the neglect. Painful to get up there and paint it (I know because I ended up having to do it).

[OBBob]

Thanks. The barge is actually treated, so it will be fine ... its just that it isn't full width so part of the rafter will be exposed. Anyway ... thanks for the advice, it has given me a few ideas.