Another *sticky* flooring question...

[vlv8vic]

I shall keep it short and sweet, all help appreciated

I am about to rip up the lino from the kitchen in my 1970something ex-commission home.
The lino has no paper backing or underlay of any sort, it is glued straight to the beautiful hardwood floor.
It will lift really easy, the glue seems to be fairly workable, however, once the lino is up there will still be a lot of glue residue on the floor which i anticipate would not sand off (its actually still very sticky to touch).

Any ideas for getting the glue off? i dont mind a bit of old fashioned hard work as long as i have a fair idea itll work!

thanks all.

[Larry McCully]

The covering on your floor was a standard type of vynal floor covering that was used Australia wide in all commision homes that came with a floor covering. Heat is one of the best ways to remove it. Find the direction which the boards run and then with a sharp stanley knife cut the covering up into strips about 150mm wide, Make sure you cut along the boards and not accross them. With a hot air gun , heat up the strip and it will peel of easly. Wear good leather or heat proof gloves. The heat transfers through the vynal and releases the glue. Use a spatular to lift the vynal. The glue left behind will be sticky. Get some talcm powder and puff it over the sticky floor, this will stop it from being sticky. Your floor sanding contractor will take care of the rest.

[vlv8vic]

So there isnt a way i can simply get the sticky stuff off? Reason i ask is that i am on holidays now and have the time to deal with it before the new kitchen goes in, then it could be a while before the flooring is done properly.
I know it isnt ideal to use the floor with unpolished boards but there isnt really another option at the moment.

(***imagines cat laying on the floor and getting stuck***)

[Dusty]

Kerosene, and a fair bit of it will nullify the glue.

This thread here delt with this very same problem and the fella had a great deal of luck with it.

Good luck. Ohh, and in the mean time, give the cat a light coating of baby oil just to be safe.

[Larry McCully]

1/ You could first remove all the vynal, and then in small managable sections, brush on some cleaning solvent (thinners) or aceatone and with a scraper remove as much of the adhesive as you can. Make sure you wear suitable protective clothing and chem mask. Purchase from Bunnings.

2/ Or as soon as you get the vynal up, get a floorsander in to do the first stages of sanding. (He will sand of the glue with 24grit)That way you can get your kitchen in and all the sander has to do is fine sand and coat when you call him back. Some builders get us to do a level sand prior to kitchen installation. We are then called back in a week or two to complete the finnishing.
Scraping the floor is a option, with elbow greese. But the best option is getting it sanded. It levels the floor also for a better fit for your new kitchen.

[vlv8vic]

thanks a stack crew, will go and oil up the cat (wow that sounds terrible!!!) Other half has me on wallpaper removal so floor might wait a little ... the downside of being a teacher on 12 weeks paid leave is the other half expects Rome to be recreated in and around our little old house.

IT JUST STARTED RAINING!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Extracare]

Go with Larry's advice on getting the first stages of sanding done BEFORE the kitchen goes in. The sander will have to be aggressive on the glue and you'll have damage/and/or glue all over the kickboards on the kitchen units.