mitre cut on 200mm skirting?

[LegacyGT]

I couldn't fit the 200mm skirting in the hand driven mitre saw because it was too tall.

i have ben advised the only way to cut it was to use a sliding compound mitre saw.

is this really the only way? i just spent $200 on one.

[silentC]

No it's not the only way. You can use a handsaw or you can use a circular saw with a fence.

[LegacyGT]

i bought this ozito one. there is no markings so i can line it up? is this the same for other brands too?

as you can imagine i need it to be accurate?

i wont use that just yet and may get a refund.


how do i go about doing this fence thing with the circular saw?

i dont think i would be too accurate with the hand saw.

[silentC]

there is no markings so i can line it up?

How do you mean? It should have graduations on it so you set the angle to 45 degrees.

how do i go about doing this fence thing with the circular saw?

Well, you would clamp a straight offcut to the board you want to cut so that the circular saw blade cuts at the right place and then use the offcut as a guide so you get a straight cut.

[LegacyGT]

How do you mean? It should have graduations on it so you set the angle to 45 degrees.

hmmm. im meaning that there no centre line which i can line up my markings so i know where the saw will cut.

Well, you would clamp a straight offcut to the board you want to cut so that the circular saw blade cuts at the right place and then use the offcut as a guide so you get a straight cut.

how do i then get a mitre cut from this method. (sorry for being a total noob)

[workgoose]

I would do this on the tablesaw with the blade at 45deg. - if you don't have one of those the next best thing is a normal circular saw, again with the blade set at 45deg. Make sure you mark and cut in such a way that the corners meet correctly, i.e. inside corner or outside corner. If you have a sliding compound mitre saw you should also be able to do this by setting the blade at 45 deg. The thing is that most of these only tilt to one side, so you need to be mindful of the inside /outside corner again, and cut from the front or back as required.

[silentC]

I would do this on the tablesaw with the blade at 45deg

That might be tricky if you have a 4.2 metre length to cut a mitre on the end of

there no centre line which i can line up my markings so i know where the saw will cut.

With the saw off you bring the blade down to contact your line and adjust the location of the bit of skirting until the edge of the blade lines up with your mark, then you switch it on and cut away.

how do i then get a mitre cut from this method.

Seeing as you have a drop saw, I wouldn't worry about this method, too fiddly.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Or hot-melt glue a strip of 6mm MDF or thin ply the full height & width of the fence, so it also covers the gullet. Set the blade to 45° and do a slow cut through the strip. (No sense in forcing a cut through such thin stuff and having tear-out blow it to pieces. )

This'll give you a precise reference line.

[TassieKiwi]

If it's an inside mitre, why not scribe it? you could do this with handsaws.

[seriph1]

I have an elu compound mitre saw - it can't cut accurate mitres on wide material ....dunno how many times I have tried, but I just couldnt seem to get it right. So I use a jigsaw, set at 45 and then clean it up as best I can..... of course this is only on the rare occasions that I am doing any outside mitres. I use a metal blade and really take my time.... seems to work out OK. Of course, more forgiving on stuff that's to be painted.

One tool I bought at the WWW show that when I get to use it will come in handy is an angle splitter so that if the mitre required is not 90 degrees, this thing splits the angle so the cuts meets nicely - great idea, but if my regular mitre-ing prowess gives any indication, will probably not help me get better.