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Thread: How to darken Aussie cedar
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20th November 2006, 08:51 PM #1
How to darken Aussie cedar
I need to match some Aussie cedar to some much older AC that is a lot darker. I'm planning to experiment with tea, coffee and Condy's crystals, but I'm hoping that someone who's already done this can shorten the research time.
The final finish will be oil.
Any advice will be gratefully received.
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20th November 2006, 10:07 PM #2
I can sympathise with that....had the same problem recently. Matching tones have to one of the hardest things....I can't do it very well....
I gave up. Ended up buying some darker cedar to match better instead.
Be interested in any ideas as well.
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20th November 2006, 10:29 PM #3
Lye works on cherry to accelerate natural darkening with age. Might work on cedar too. Leave on a minute or two, neutralize with white vinegar. Lye from drain cleaner (crystals only), paint remover, oven cleaner. Experiment with different concentrations of lye crystals; good starting point is 1 tsp in 3 cups water.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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20th November 2006, 10:35 PM #4
Ive always had good success with toning by using turps based stain like the Cabot's range and Feast Watson.
Just start out with a weak mixture with turps or thinners (they both work), and build up to your desired colour on some scrap..
I have used this method to make the white sapwood of American Cherry dissapear.......I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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20th November 2006, 11:25 PM #5
I have played a bit with Ferrous Sulphate ( or is it Ferric??) brushed onto cedar that had been brushed with Tannic Acid. It was a hit or miss affair, the way I did it, but I reckon if done under controlled conditions, paying attention to shades of dark, that it could be a good methos.
The Iron Sulphate I got from the CHemist ( they used to use it for iron problems in older women) and the Tannic Acid I got from the local Brew Shop which was dissolved in ethanol and brushed on before the water solution of the iron sulphate was brushed on.
The process was stopped by washing the stock in running water.
Wish I'd have done it under controlled conditions, then I could have been more helpful.
Regards,
Noel
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21st November 2006, 12:27 AM #6
Potassium bichromate or dichromate. Mix onto a saturate with water and then weaken some of it 50/50 with water. Works brilliantly. It's all in "The Book" Don't breathe the fumes use rubber gloves, etc.
Condy's crystale also works well on cedar but won't give a desirable colour. Much too dark.
New England Woodturning Supplies has a new uv stabalised ebonising liquid that will also work but may be a bit too dark unless you water it down. I have used it on redgum, osage orange and camphor laurel with very good results. (Scroll to bottom of their home page)
Cheers - Neil
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21st November 2006, 12:43 AM #7
So do what ubeaut says that way you can stay on the forum
*VBG*
StudleyAussie Hardwood Number One
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21st November 2006, 12:35 PM #8
Thanks folks, I'll try some of those on test pieces - guess I'll learn something anyway.
I thought the potassium dichromate may be the go - played with it years ago to develop blue prints - but my local pharmacist says she can't get it. May have to hunt further afield.
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21st November 2006, 02:22 PM #9
I have plenty of potassium bichromate - you are more than welcome to some. The probelm is getting it to you. As it is classified as a Dangerous Good, it cannot be sent via Aus Post.
If you think of a way of getting it from Melb to Syd without leaving me out of pocket, it is yours for free ...This message has been proudly brought to you by Bunyip
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21st November 2006, 09:58 PM #10
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22nd November 2006, 06:59 AM #11
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22nd November 2006, 08:24 PM #12
Hmm - the stuff is bright orange.
AlexS - PM me if you need to take up the collection option at some stage; more than happy to oblige.This message has been proudly brought to you by Bunyip
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