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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Melbourne
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    46

    Default I'm stuck (haven't even started).

    Hi boys,
    Long time reader, first time poster.

    Project: total backyard make over. Retaining wall - 1st step.
    The wall is 11 m long and 0.5m high.

    Considering sleepers. Pine or red gum. I won't be living in here for longer than 2-3 years though I think, so the argument they'll rot in 10 years - let them.

    Can they be made to look modern? Polished or painted? Stained somehow? Pine
    Sleepers - too plain. I like the red gum ones - but even when brand new they are already all cracked. Anything? :confused:

    I don't want to make my first post long, so, I'll open another thread for more questions.

    Thnaks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    3,208

    Default

    in a year the redgum will go grey.

    Paint seems to be the only solution but maybe the online brains trust can come up with something
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  3. #3
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    Jun 2003
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    Default

    I used treated pine sleepers for my garden make over. which is nearly finished. ( Hooray smilie.)

    They are easier to cut, nail or drill and when painted blend in to the background rather then stand out.

    I painted mine with the same fence paint from Bunnings as I painted the fence. Two coats are needed to get the same coverage as the fence.

    BTW treated pine sleepers will last a lot longer then 10 years.


    Peter.

  4. #4
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    Jun 2003
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    Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

    Much easier and nicer to look at.


    Peter.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    45
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    314

    Default

    Another thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495
    I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee View Post
    Just a suggestion, if you have the space, rather then build a wall 0.5 m high which will require a fair bit of work and possibly fencing build it as a terraced wall of three levels each a sleeper high and plant out with ground cover plants.

    Much easier and nicer to look at.

    Peter.
    Interesting idea, but.. no space. This is a unit, L shape backyard and part of 'L' is close to the house, 2.3 meters from the fence to the wall of the dwelling.
    This retaining wall is holdig up that fence. But appr. 6 meters of this wall are visible from the main backyard entrance, so has to look nice.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JDub View Post
    Another good thread with some very good advice re: TP retaining walls from Eastie....

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=38495
    And why do you think I am considering pine sleepers again and started this thread? I saw your posts in that forum. Looks great. In your project.
    Won't be as nice in mine - the wall IS in a way kind of a feature wall - small backyard. That's why I really want to make them look different.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    65
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    1,248

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    Treated Pine ...Reasons to be cheerful
    1. Can get them 75mm thick so your circular saw will cut through them in one go instead of having to do 2 cuts.
    2. Have you picked up a 200 x 100 HW sleeper by yourself?
    3. They are guaranteed 40 years... new HW you may get 5 if your lucky.
    4. No need to predrill your spikes
    5. You can stain them to look like anything you want.

    You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind. Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb View Post
    You said you were considering pine or HW but it seems that you already have made up your mind.
    I haven't! And JDub's pics made me think that pine sleepers can be installed nicely and look great!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb View Post
    Why come here and ask for suggestions only to belittle someone who has gone to the trouble of responding.
    I am sorry I came across this way. Never attempted to belittle anyone here. Sorry.

    In fact, this lunch break I went to 2 timber shops. Got 2 quotes for 11x3 = 33 meters of slepers plus galvinezed H and C columns. $490 in one place and $560 other.
    And it's 75mm one. @$7 per l/m. Is this right price.
    The posts are $35 meter.

    Did I apologize?

  10. #10
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    Aug 2006
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    Default

    Likewise Sorry LeoAu, I have obviously misread your response.
    My apologies.

    My Calcs
    Assuming a straight wall no steps using 75 x 150 sleepers, av. retail cost
    11m / 2.4 = 5 sleepers long
    0.5m / .150 = 4 ie 3 upright + 1 capping =20 sleepers @ $16 = $320.00
    If you go 500 in ground you need 6 posts of 1m posts @$35 = $210
    6 bags of concrete mix = $70

    Total $590 or $107/sq.m Plus labour, deliver, GST.

    PS Steel uprights on such a low wall is pobably an overkill using sleepers would save $160 bringing the cost of the wall to $78/sq.m

  11. #11
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

    Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

    If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
    Thanks for your input!

  12. #12
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    Aug 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeoAU View Post
    Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

    Capping - what do you mean? How? I mean provided I am using steel posts, how will the capping be attached to the wall?

    If i understood correctly - it'll be like a bench, right? Couple of screws into the wall sleeper?
    Thanks for your input!
    If you can afford the steel don't let me hold you back.
    Yeh the top course is layed flat with an overhang at the front - screw them with bugle heads or just use deck spikes or 150mm gal nails.

  13. #13
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    Jun 2004
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LeoAU View Post
    Steel uprights is an overkill? But I liked them so much in JDub's pics.

    !
    Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

    Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

    Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

    Joel
    I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car.

  14. #14
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    Nov 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by JDub View Post
    Eh? I didnt use steel uprights at all, I used the same timber for the posts as I did for the wales (200x75 H4 TP), 500mm in ground, 400 out..... I will post some new pics soon from a different angel so you get a better idea.

    Mine doesnt have capping at all as it is only for around the shed....

    Also I have since painted them with solaguard to protect the wall and match/blend in with the new shed........

    Joel
    Pictures, pictures, pictures please!!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
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    Between a rock & a hard place (vic)
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    Default

    Here's one I prepared earlier.... (the one with steel posts)

    The edge capping is 140x25mm recovered ironbark flooring (not finished as yet - will finish with some cabots exterior clear or the like). It makes a nice seat or rest. I simply used bugle head screws and went one screw centre of board / centre of sleeper / centre of bay. So long as your top row of sleepers is cut to fit tight (if using steel) or otherwise well secured this method is solid, neat and works well. If you don;t want a screw head showing you could use a battern along the rear of the wall and secure from below, but it's more work, more material.

    To get neat joins on the edge capping I use a straight halving joint, that way if one adjoining board sits higher it can be pulled down by the mating board (not real clear in the pic's, but very simple). I might put some wax on the screw heads and then cover in black tinted builders bog one day, but they look ok as is for now.

    A few other comments on construction are linked in one of the posts above. I originally had the plan of covering the bottom wall in mini-orb (top will evenually be obscured by vines, herbs, chillies and other plants), but have since come to my senses and realised it's only a wall.....

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