Wiring after replacing Fluros

[jaypee]

Hi

Just a quick one

I want to replace my fluros with regular battern type light fittings.

Is there a trick to the wiring. If I put the wires back in the light stays permanently on. (4 wires in all)

I understand in Fluros that only the 2 wires are sometimes used (L and N) whilst the Red + is terminated away as is the earth. Whats the trick with regular fittings? Any help would be appreciated.

[bennylaird]

Get a sparkie, better than doing yourself an injury playing around.

Sounds like you are not that familiar with wiring so would not like to encourage you with info on here sorry.

[silentC]

I understand in Fluros that only the 2 wires are sometimes used (L and N) whilst the Red + is terminated away as is the earth.

:eek: :eek:

Do yourself a favour mate, get a sparky.

[Eddie Jones]

Q. What's brown and crisp and hangs off the light fittings?

A. Jaypee - unless he follows the above good advice.

[jaypee]

I thought that would be the answer.

Issue I have is a wired lights whilst going through school (worked for a lighting mob) but never had to change them out. I think these guys did their own wiring downstairs as upstairs only has one cable (3 wires) going to each point....

Thanks

[bennylaird]

normally you have the return, the switch active and a junction connection but the problem comes when people make thier own rules.

[b1ueshift]

Hi

Just a quick one

I want to replace my fluros with regular battern type light fittings.

Is there a trick to the wiring. If I put the wires back in the light stays permanently on. (4 wires in all)

I understand in Fluros that only the 2 wires are sometimes used (L and N) whilst the Red + is terminated away as is the earth. Whats the trick with regular fittings? Any help would be appreciated.

A light is a light - the wiring termination is the same regardless of whether it's fluro or incandescent. A sparkie could sort this out in a minute and save you a lot of time - but if you are determined to do it yourself, don't touch anything unless the main power switch is off at the meterbox.

You have active and neutral, to switch and from switch (which are not the same as active and neutral) and in most cases, the light won't be on the end of the line and you will have active and neutral continuing to the next light. If the wiring was done in the last 30 years or so, you will also have earth wiring. You seem to be a little hazy on how it all goes together.

[silentC]

This is the reason that they don't print wiring instructions on the back of powerpoints any more.

jaypee, with all due respect to you mate, if you have to ask you shouldn't be doing it.

[bennylaird]

This might help though...............


People complain that they feel like a dummy when it comes to
electricity. They do not comprehend what the electrician is saying. So
here is simple explanation with which one could master their lingo and
talk with confidence.


110 / 220 Voltage : I think it is time to explain the difference
between 220 voltage / current and why it is so different from 110
voltage / current. First of all 220 voltage is twice as big. Secondly,
it will shock you more, to be exact twice as hard. Outside of that , 220
volts are really two 110 volt lines coming to your house from different
parts of the globe. The up and down 110 comes from the Northern
Hemisphere, and the down and up version comes from the Southern
Hemisphere, that is below the equator.

Without trying to get too technical, it all boils down to the direction water flows when it goes
down the drain. In the Northern Hemisphere , top of the earth, it goes
clockwise , while in the Southern Hemisphere , on the bottom of the
earth it goes counter clockwise. Since most electricity is made from
hydro dams, the clockwise flow gives you an up and down sine wave, while
the counter clockwise version gives you a down and up sine wave. Between
the two, you have 220 volts while either individual side only gives you
110 volts.

This is extremely important to know when buying power tools,
from which side of the globe did they come from? If you get an
Australian saw , for instance, it will turn backwards if connected to a
US / Canadian generated 110 volt source. Sure, you can buy backward
inclined blades for it, but that is an unnecessary burden, Other
appliances, like toasters cannot be converted from Australian
electricity to US / Canadian electricity without horrible results. I
know one person who bought an Australian toaster by mistake and it froze
the slices of bread she put in it.

If you wire your shop with 220 volts
and accidentally get two US generated 110 volt lines run in by accident,
you can get 220 volts by using a trick I learned from an old electrician
associate. Just put each source into its own fuse box and then turn one
of the boxes upside down. That will invert one of the two up and down
sine waves to a down and up thus giving you 220 volts. DO NOT just turn
the fuse box sideways, since that will give you 165 volts and you will
be limited to using just Canadian tools with it. The above outlined
explanation coincides with the various ups and downs we all encounter
throughout our day to day life.

[Sturdee]

This might help though...............

Peter.

[Auld Bassoon]

Ah! That expplains it nicely! Thanks Benny

[ozwinner]

Strewth, no wonder my dado blade that I got from the US wont cut.

Al

[bennylaird]

To right, you should have got a ODAD blade

[doug1]

I think I understand electricity now

Is it like this if I make my own?

[bennylaird]

Depends which way you pedal the generator