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Thread: Refinishing oregon kitchen
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13th October 2006, 01:02 PM #1Novice
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Refinishing oregon kitchen
We have an oregon kitchen (benches, benchtops, cabinets, the works) which isn't the best material for a kitchen in my opinion, but the previous owners did it so who am I to complain?
We last had it refinished in 2002 as the tenants gouged out one of the benches. The carpenter used some sort of Cabot's poly, but I'm not exactly sure which one.
He didn't seal around the sink too well and consequently the timber around the sink is starting to turn black, presumably due to water intrusion.
I'm going to do sand and it myself this time - but need some advice as to what's the best finish to use. Intergrain? Cabot's? Feast Watson? Others? Varnish? Poly? Acrylic?
Any advice appreciated!
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14th October 2006, 04:38 PM #2.
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16th October 2006, 12:56 PM #3Novice
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Yeah our current poly was done in 2002 so that's about 4 years, but it's long overdue for re-coating. The black spots appeared along the timber joins and around the sink about 18 months ago, but now the black spots around the sink have become worse...
The carpenter that did the work sanded it back to bare timber and did 2 coats of poly in the one day... which I suspect is part of the issue.
I should have had them laminated or something!!!!
What poly did you use last time BobL?
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17th October 2006, 12:06 AM #4
I'd be surprised if water is penetrating the poly through the horizontal surface. It's more likely entering the end grain, possibly under the edge of the sink.
Might pay to worry less about the type of finish than how you seal the sink edges etc.Rusty
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17th October 2006, 01:01 AM #5.
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Most of our water penetration has been following something dinging the surface, crockery or pot edge or knife etc and very little near sink edges where I really laid it on well around the seams.
I used Cabots CFP with the accelerator - it's really meant for floors and gives a nice hard finish. It's lasted more than twice as long as single pack poly so it was worth it. Watch out for that accelerator I nearly poisoned myself on it because I was stupid and took one of my gloves off to wipe away a few dropped brush hairs and got the stuff on my skin. Fortunately once it dries on the surface its harmless.
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17th October 2006, 02:55 PM #6Senior Member
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mmmm, the material will always haunt you, as evidenced by others. Check out some marine products, pricey but good.
If you sand back you may have to use some type of wood cleaner to get the black stuff out before finishing.
Grain filler might also be appropriate.
let us know how you go.
cheers,
conwood
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18th October 2006, 04:22 PM #7Novice
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Does anyone think I can get away with not going back to bare timber, but just roughening the current surface where it's good, but bare timber on the dodgy parts?
Just being lazy... oops I mean time efficient.
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