Covering gap where picture rails were...

[Kerryv]

Hi there, I previously posted a thread asking where I can get replacement picture rails from. I have since decided on trying to cover the joint where I have removed the old picture rails cos I think any picture rails are going to look daggy in my house.

So does anyone know of the best way to fill the crack where the two pieces of plaster meet under where the picture rails were positioned? I have Gyprock filler and the final finish Gyprock filler but not sure if there are any better products out there. Do I use that netting tape or the paper tape stuff along the crack? In some spots the gap is 1cm-1.5cm.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kerry

[Barry_White]

Kerry

Don't use the nylon netting tape as it will only end up with a hairline crack. Use the paper tape with setting cement. Fill the gap with the setting cement the place the paper tape over the joint with a thin coat of setting cement over the tape making sure you remove any air bubbles.

When it dries put another thin coat of setting cement over spreading and feathering wider than the first coat. When that dries put a coat of topping cement over spreading and feathering wider again.

[Kerryv]

Thanks Barry! When you say cement is that the same as the Gyprock filler that I mentioned or is that something else?

Thanks

Kerry

[Barry_White]

Thanks Barry! When you say cement is that the same as the Gyprock filler that I mentioned or is that something else?

Thanks

Kerry

Kerry

If you have a look at this site it may give you a better idea.

http://www.gyprock.com.au/about/hpw/...nstallation%22

Just don't use the Easytape/Nylon Tape. Use the paper tape.

[pawnhead]

Kerry

Don't use the nylon netting tape as it will only end up with a hairline crack. Use the paper tape with setting cement. Fill the gap with the setting cement the place the paper tape over the joint with a thin coat of setting cement over the tape making sure you remove any air bubbles.

When it dries put another thin coat of setting cement over spreading and feathering wider than the first coat. When that dries put a coat of topping cement over spreading and feathering wider again.

Yes I've heard that the nylon tape can crack but I've used it on heaps of jobs with no problems. Most of the professionals that I've seen use it as well because it's easier, hence it's called "easytape". I'm sure that the paper tape is better, but if you're not experienced then it's very difficult to get all the bubbles out.
Just another tip to add. When applying the first coat, overfill the joint, then scrape it off by holding the broadknife perpendicular to the wall. Re-fill any holes then scrape again until you get it looking relatively smooth. Don't hold the broadknife at an angle. Even though it may give a smoother looking finish, If you do this then the pressure will leave a depression in the wall along the joint and it will be visible when the paint goes on. With subsequent coats, hold the broadknife at an angle and apply pressure to fill up the irregularities in the first levelling coat. After the final coat, a light sand should give a perfect finish.

edit This only applies if the sheets are recessed at the joints.

[Kerryv]

Thank you both.

Most helpful!

[rod@plasterbrok]

As you have wide gaps it is essential to pre fill the gaps with the jointing cement first.

Then scrape back when set prior to applying the paper tape.

This will help you prevent bubbles under the tape.

Trowel the joint as you would a butt joint. You can see how to do butt joints and use paper tape on the tips pages on my web site.

Good luck.

Rod Dyson

[Kerryv]

Thanks Rod