Damsel in distress - how to stain dining table

[kikkams]

Sorry to bother you all - but I've been reading this forum for a few days and thought you might be able to help. I bought a teak dining table about a year ago, and for some reason everytime it was wiped, stain would lift.
I tried to fix this recently by painting it with Wattyl's Stain and Varnish in teak but the finish was terrible [lots of paint brush marks and uneven]. I've read that others on your forum have had this problem [though in my case it might be attributable to a DIY novice!]
I've now sanded it back but have no idea how to try to get a proper finish - I'd just like the stain not to lift as it makes it difficult when it marks guests' clothes!
I'd like something fairly quick and easy as I'm pretty hopeless at this game! Do I look at something like a teak oil and then a varnish, or is there another way around it?
Thanks so much in advance for your help

[Captain Chaos]

Hello Kikkams,
Welcome to the Woodwork Forums. I hope that you will enjoy your stay here, just bring your sense of humour along & you will fit right in.
Sorry that I can't help you personally, but there are plenty of really clued in people on this forum who will be able to answer your query, I'm sure. Just stick around & enjoy fun.
Regards,
Barry.

[Auzzie turner]

I'll second that. I'm a woodturner, so I can't help you.

I am in Perth as well, where are you?

Trust you'll get the help u need soon,

Regards..........Joash

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Are you happy with the colour as it is or do you want to restain it?

If you just want to seal it, here's a basic, beginner level method that's more or less foolproof. Assuming the table's already sanded down to 400grit or so, make a wad of an old rag, dip it into some Danish Oil and wipe down the table. You don't want to apply a thick coat, just enough so the table looks "wet" the same as it would if you were wiping it down with a wet rag. Make sure you get full coverage, no "dry" bits.

When this first coat thoroughly dries, about 24 hours (read the directions on the can ), very lightly hand sand it along the grain using 600grit or so s/paper to flatten any fibres that were raised by the first coat. If it feels nice'n'smooth to the hand, that's enough sanding.

Apply another coat in the same way. If you're fussy, or the finish feels "rough" again once this second coat has dried you can lightly sand again, otherwise simply apply the next coat.

The more coats applied this way, the glossier the finish and the richer the timber colour. I'd say 3 coats is the absolute minimum you want to apply. No brush marks, even coverage... what more could you ask for?

(Hehehe! I can hear the finishing purists cringing already! )

[kikkams]

Thanks so much for the welcomes and the advice! Apologies for the stupid questions - I really am a novice. But, will the Danish oil leave a finish that won't come off again when it comes in contact with water [like a wet cloth used to wipe the table down?]

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Thanks so much for the welcomes and the advice! Apologies for the stupid questions - I really am a novice. But, will the Danish oil leave a finish that won't come off again when it comes in contact with water [like a wet cloth used to wipe the table down?]

It'll be fine. Once properly dried, you'll safely be able to wipe away to your hearts content or lean on it in a white shirt without having to bleach it afterwards.

The name's a bit misleading, it's really more of a PolyUrethane varnish than an oil. Danish Oil is often used for floors & items of furniture.

[kikkams]

Thanks so much for your help - I really appreciate it! [It got a bit difficult to explain to guests that they really did have to keep their elbows off the table or they'd risk ruining a shirt!]
Final stupid question - a number of the instruction guides mention wiping the table with mineral turps after sanding and before applying a stain or oil. Do you think this is necessary in my situation, or only on new wood?

[coastie]

Takes about eight days to properly harden so dont use it before then

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Thanks so much for your help - I really appreciate it! [It got a bit difficult to explain to guests that they really did have to keep their elbows off the table or they'd risk ruining a shirt!]
Final stupid question - a number of the instruction guides mention wiping the table with mineral turps after sanding and before applying a stain or oil. Do you think this is necessary in my situation, or only on new wood?

Hmmm... Teak is an oily wood & the the turps removes the oil from the surface so the stain/finish will penetrate/bond. Thinking a bit further on your problem, I wonder if your table wasn't lacquered at all and was simply oiled with a cheap teak oil (maybe containing a stain?)... and it's the teak oil that's doing the staining? :eek:

So... you've sanded back the finish you applied? If you wipe the table down now with a clean white cloth, does it still come away stained? If so, a wipe down with turps would certainly be a good idea else the Danish may give a patchy finish. If the cloth comes away clean, just apply the Danish.

[kikkams]

I've just wiped the table and it is still coming away stained - though less than before my awkward DIY attempts...