Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default wiring brick houses

    Hi all,

    I have a 100 year old solid brick house. I have had the wiring checked by a sparky mate. There are a couple of switch wires that need replacing(old cotton covered stuff). My mate is happy for me to run the new cable and he will then terminate it. he has advised me that I can only run the cable vertically.

    Being rendered solid brick walls I have to cut trenches for the wire. I just got a diamond angle grinder blade to do this. I have a couple of questions. Do I have to/should I run the new cable in conduit, or just cut the trench insert the cable then plaster over the top. I'm thinking conduit would be best so the next poor sod doesn't have to cut the walls.

    I also have the most detailed cornice I have ever seen, about 1 foot down the wall, and across the ceiling, with plaster rope with flowers along the bottom edge. I am not prepared to cut it, as you'd never be able to repair it. I was think of using long masonary bits to drill behind it up to the roof cavity. is this the best way, or can anyone think of another way to do this.

    once again I will not be terminating the switch cables myself.

    Thanks in advance
    Moray

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    kiama
    Posts
    390

    Default

    I think you would want to put the wire in conduit.

    If you can get above the bricks wall and drill down below the cornice and then cut to your trench you would be OK.

    Bunnings have a set of masonary drills (three) neally a metre long about 12mm to 25mm for about $35.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    67
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Hello Moray,

    Yes, in conduit.

    Can I also suggest that you go to Bunnings and buy one of the Ozito, GMC, Dynalink or some other el cheapo brand rotary hammer? Try and find one with a channeling bit included. These things are brilliant for running channels for conduit and you shouldn't have to pay more than $100.00.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Thanks for your quick replies.

    looks like I have to go shopping at bunnings for some new stuff

    I was going to make a pair of parallel cuts with the diamond blade, and chisel out the middle with a cold chisel. With the rotary hammer would you still need to make the cuts ?

    cheers
    Moray

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moray View Post
    I was going to make a pair of parallel cuts with the diamond blade, and chisel out the middle with a cold chisel. With the rotary hammer would you still need to make the cuts ?
    Moray,
    the parallel cuts with their sharp edges will make plastering over the hole soo much easier

    ian

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    67
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Moray,
    the parallel cuts with their sharp edges will make plastering over the hole soo much easier

    ian
    Yep. It's a good idea.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Queanbeyan
    Age
    60
    Posts
    732

    Default

    Solid brick or double brick? Double brick may have a cavity between the inner wall and the outer wall.

    Cheers
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    it has double brick with a cavity on the exterior walls, however internal walls are single brick. unfortunately the switches are on the internal single brick walls.

    what size conduit should i use for 1.5 twin switch wire, and a 1.5 single ( i.e. 3 wires, for a two switch light)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    412

    Default

    Hire yourself a wall chaser hooked up to a dust extractor.....then chisel out as suggested....quicker,easier,consistent depth,less dust !

    Tools

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    38

    Default Hire a wall chaser!

    Hi Moray,

    If you haven't already started take Tools advice and hire a wall chaser with built in vacuum. I had a similar job to yours and tried the grinder but the amount of dust was unbelieveable and it gets everywhere. You'll end up having to clean all your decorative cornices. Also, you might not notice it after you're done but if you wipe the wall later on you'll see that a fine film of dust has settled over it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    100

    Default

    if these switches are on walls that would let you chase horizontally to an exterior cavity wall you could do it that way to avoid the cornice, yes put it in conduit, its so much easier to fix later

    Or you may be able to go down and across to a cavity wall

    Doug

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Our 125 year old house has cavity brick external walls and double brick internal walls. All internal walls are solid plastered and there are elaborate cornices, picture rails, vents and ceiling roses

    Ten years ago I helped a sparky rewire light switches and install new power points.

    We put all new powerpoints on the skirting boards on external walls. We just drilled a 25mm hole through the skirting and brick into the cavity, and then dropped a fishing line down the cavity and pulled the wires through.

    The light switches are at shoulder height and we routed the vertical drop wiring into the plaster. First we tried using a router - quick but incredibly dusty. Then we used a small hammer drill - same result. Finally we cut two lines through the plaster with a stanley knife and steel rule and then hand chiselled the plaster out of the groove. The plaster was very soft and a hammer was not needed - we literally hand chiselled.

    We then welded an 18mm drill bit onto 600mm of 6mm reo rod and drilled up from the top of the groove past the cornice. Really quick and easy.

    We then ran the dropper wires, filled the grooves with cornice cement, hand sanded, touched up with cornice cement, resanded and painted wall.

    It was a surprisingly easy job, but quite messy - fine, fine dust everywhere.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Avoid horizontal chases because they significantly weaken the wall, vertical chases don't. Also I wouldn't bother with conduit. You'll just need a wider chase. That white double insulated pvc wiring doesn't seem to break down and should be good for 50 years. By the time it needs replacing, if the house is still there, there'll probably be wireless light switches on the market.

    Also, it might be easier to chase down and run the wires under the floor.

Similar Threads

  1. Garage plans, where? Single or double brick?
    By juliussee in forum THE GARDEN SHED
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 13th August 2005, 09:42 PM
  2. demolish an indoor brick minibar
    By kufu in forum BRICKWORK
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 4th February 2005, 11:04 AM
  3. Cutting a window into an internal brick wall
    By dalejw in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETC
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11th January 2005, 08:00 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •