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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Rosebud Vict AUS
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    84
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    Just make sure that you remember to put in some "T" track , two pieces running front to back to carry the fence, one parralel to the fence for a mitre slot.
    Jacko
    ps, I would use something manmade, dead flat and stable. My table is 45 mm of MDF with a laminate top, waxed occasionally. Just my 2 c's worth, understand that you want to iuse what you have already created. perhaps you could find soething else to do with it?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
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    The weight of opinion is getting oppressive around here! I take your point and I might cut my losses before I get my heart broken, but what am I going to use a 600x900 hardwood top for now?
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    268

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    A finishing bench, or a small fabrication bench (assembling small projects)
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
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    I guess you can never have enough bench space can you.
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
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    0

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    Could re'rip it at the joins and reuse on something else. Or just put it aside till the day a project needs it!
    ....................................................................

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,174

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    Quote Originally Posted by kman-oz View Post
    The weight of opinion is getting oppressive around here! I take your point and I might cut my losses before I get my heart broken, but what am I going to use a 600x900 hardwood top for now?
    Just to make you feel better I'd go the laminate or similar as well (my router table is a cast iron wing on a TS). Don't rush on using the 600 x 900. Set it aside and it will call you when the times comes and you will feel even better you made the right decision.

    Cheers

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Age
    66
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    0

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    See current Australian Wood Review magazine for plans for a simple router table. They use 2 layers of 13mm ply glued together and then melamine glued on top of same. To keep the table level they have a plywood reinforcing channel glued underneath the table.
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Age
    66
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    0

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazzler View Post
    Hi

    I have an MDF top finished with tung/poly and wax as per pat warner style router tables.

    See here;


    http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html

    seems to work fine

    goood luck

    dazzler
    Wow..I love the dovetail joints on that thing. A work of art!
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Hallidays Point - the land of blackbutt and swamp mahogany
    Posts
    0

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacko View Post
    Just make sure that you remember to put in some "T" track , two pieces running front to back to carry the fence, one parralel to the fence for a mitre slot.
    Jacko
    There is a school of thought that you don't need either. A fence doesn't need to run in two tracks, it can just swivel from a point, for acurate setup. Unless you are using a linear positioning system like an Incra, but even then I don't think they have to be mounted to T track. And some people swear by not using a mitre track, instead running all jigs off the fence.

    My preferred system is a swivel fence - its very quick and easy to set up a fixed distance from the bit. An when I want to use my Incra 'original' jig, it is fixed to a plate which is clamped to the back of the table.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    75
    Posts
    9,670

    Default

    Best surface is tempered masonite polished with wax.

    If you want to keep the timber top. Sand to 800 grit apply a coat of shellac with about 5% pure talcum powder in it, sand with 1200 grit, apply a second coat, sand again and it should be smoother than a babies bum, have all the slip in the world and won't effect the surface of the timber being routed. For even more slip sprinkle a little talc on the surface from time to time.

    The above is also very, very easy to repair if damaged.

    See here for Talc and Shellac (french polish). Do not use talc straight off the shelf, in most instances it is not pure talc and can cause problems, including leaving white marks in the finish. The talc in the link above is pure and very much finer than body talk.

    Cheers - Neil

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
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    0

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    Well, I've gone for the MDF top and hardwood frame. I'm doing the trimming and fitting now, what should I do to seal the top and make it smooth and low friction? I can't afford laminate, I've already blown the budget on this one. Estapol, light sand and autowax perhaps?
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
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    0

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    Yep but dont use the autowax it contains silicons(unless its something like gold class Meguiar's), any wax will do the job just make sure there's none of that horrid silicon in it.
    Ubeauts traditional wax is very good for this!
    ....................................................................

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Age
    72
    Posts
    36

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    I did one a few years ago & used reinforced ply. I sanded it to about 600 grit & used beeswax. I only use it for rounding over since it houses a crappy 1/4" Skil router. Works well though. Every now & then it gets a bit of a sand and more wax.

    Cheers,
    Keith

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
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    0

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    Why no solicone? Bees wax I have, but I'd have thought an auto polish would be better, no?
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    268

    Default

    Do a search of this forum for silicon, and all will be revealed.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


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