Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    33

    Default Skylight hole in verandah roof.

    Hi all,
    I have a verandah roof. 7 deg pitch .42 corrugated colorbond roofing.
    Span from wall to verandah plate of 4800.

    Rafters are 150 x45 hyspan lvl at 600 centres.

    For this section of verandah its about 5500 wide.

    I want to install three sheets wide ( 762x3 ) Corrugated Polycarbonate over a section in the middle if this, running the full 4800 from wall to verandah plate.

    My question is can I move the rafters that sit in the middle of the skylight to the edges of the opening, and so have a 2100 wide opening with only the battens spaning the opening.

    Instead of leaving the rafters running through the middle of the skylight.


    Hope this makes sense.

    thanks
    JR
    We could learn a lot from crayons: some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, some have weird names, and all are different colours....
    but they all exist very nicely in the same box.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    722

    Default

    It might sage over time? The laser light would be made for 600mm ctrs. Presumably you would still need battens accross the rafters to attach the sheets ... maybe you could reinforce these with angl steel of aluminium over that section?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    .
    Posts
    4,816

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jackruss
    My question is can I move the rafters that sit in the middle of the skylight to the edges of the opening, and so have a 2100 wide opening with only the battens spaning the opening.

    Instead of leaving the rafters running through the middle of the skylight.JR
    Why?
    What do hope to achive?

    Al :confused:

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    86
    Posts
    1,067

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ozwinner
    Why?
    What do hope to achive?

    Al :confused:
    A real hot spot under the verandah.

    And you would probably have to increase the battens to 150 x 45 and fit them between the rafters.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    You would need larger rafters each side of the skylight and much larger battens (installed on edge as purlins)
    So it won't be a cheap project.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Why would cost isn't an issue. I am still using the same number of rafters, just nail laminating them either side of the opening??

    The batten is just to hold the polycarb. roofing.

    I know polycarb is not trafficable ( is that the correct spelling ?!). So the load on the battens will always be roofing material only, and poly carb is VERY light.

    i don't expect uplift to be an issue either as it would just pop the fixings long before it lifted the batten.

    Note the installation is in Sydney

    I want to have a clean opening, that lets as much light in both on the deck and thru the kitchen window.

    As you can imagine, a 4800 deep verandah will cut a lot of light.

    For the record its a south east facing verandah, and the bulk will be covered in steel.

    Beefing up the battens seems the best way to go, while still giving a clean line.

    thanks

    JR
    We could learn a lot from crayons: some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, some have weird names, and all are different colours....
    but they all exist very nicely in the same box.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    86
    Posts
    1,067

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jackruss
    Why would cost isn't an issue. I am still using the same number of rafters, just nail laminating them either side of the opening??

    The batten is just to hold the polycarb. roofing.

    I know polycarb is not trafficable ( is that the correct spelling ?!). So the load on the battens will always be roofing material only, and poly carb is VERY light.

    i don't expect uplift to be an issue either as it would just pop the fixings long before it lifted the batten.

    Note the installation is in Sydney

    I want to have a clean opening, that lets as much light in both on the deck and thru the kitchen window.

    As you can imagine, a 4800 deep verandah will cut a lot of light.

    For the record its a south east facing verandah, and the bulk will be covered in steel.

    Beefing up the battens seems the best way to go, while still giving a clean line.

    thanks

    JR
    Jack it looks like you answered all your own questions without our help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Well Barrry

    Yes and No.

    I hadn't thought about the heat gain, or about beefing up the battens.

    I was just looking for some input from the brains trust of the forum.

    Thinking outloud so to speak, didn't mean to ask and answer my own question.

    I know if I had made a glaring assumption, someone would jump on it.

    I appreciate all the input.

    Its all about the planning right, do it once and do it right.

    Anyway Barry, I would think the thermal transfer thru the steel either side would be similar to polycarbonate, right?

    JR
    We could learn a lot from crayons: some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, some have weird names, and all are different colours....
    but they all exist very nicely in the same box.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,026

    Default

    Jack,
    it may or may not worry you, but I could just about gauarantee that it would not meet the requirements of the building code. Conducted heat would be less from the polycarbonate would be less but the radiant heat would be a lot more, enough to make it very uncomfortable on a sunny day.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    86
    Posts
    1,067

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jackruss
    Well Barrry

    Yes and No.

    I hadn't thought about the heat gain, or about beefing up the battens.

    I was just looking for some input from the brains trust of the forum.

    Thinking outloud so to speak, didn't mean to ask and answer my own question.

    I know if I had made a glaring assumption, someone would jump on it.

    I appreciate all the input.

    Its all about the planning right, do it once and do it right.

    Anyway Barry, I would think the thermal transfer thru the steel either side would be similar to polycarbonate, right?

    JR
    Jack

    At the moment I do some commission work for Spanline and attached is a sheet we use to show the Solar Gain for various products. At the bottom you will notice the low number for Spanline roof sheeting. This roof sheeting because of its profile and colour coating has a very low heat gain compared to polycarbonate and Alsynite. Colorbond corrugated would not be as low as this but would certainly not be as high as the heat gain from polycarbonate or even Alsynite.

    Spanline sheeting has an underneath gloss coat of between 55 and 80% which contributes to its low heat gain. We do very little in the way of dark colours with Spanline so it would depend on what colour you have on your roof as to what heat gain you will get out of your steel roof.

    Normal Colorbond only has a wash grey coat on the underside which would be lucky to be 10% gloss.

    If you want to increase your light in the house I would suggest installing some Solar Tube brand type skylights in the house. The Solar Tube brand is the best one on the market because it gives more light because of its highly reflective tube.

    Hope this helps in your decision.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,248

    Default

    Have you thought of just removing the tin over the area in question and leaving it open to the elements - or even adding extra joists to get a pergola effect. You wo'nt have the heat problem but a bit damp during rain.:eek:

Similar Threads

  1. pergola roof over tile house roof
    By Lbudgie in forum PERGOAS, GAZEBOS, STROMBELLAS & ROTUNDAS
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 24th March 2006, 05:58 PM
  2. Long span garage roof deck, more thoughts
    By Wildman in forum DECKING
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 29th September 2004, 08:00 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •