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Thread: Rottenstone And Pumicestone
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26th August 2006, 12:44 AM #1WOODBE IF I COULDBE
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Rottenstone And Pumicestone
I am sure many of you have read teh Woodsmith article on using these products to finish a high gloss project. Has anyone tried it and what sort of result did you achieve?
Does anyone know if these product are available in WA and if so, where?
Laury
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27th August 2006, 11:05 AM #2
Had editor of Woodsmith on phone the other day looking for sources of both in Australia. Not the first time he has contacted me. They often do articles with products that aren't available in here in Oz. We usually have same or similar products here (just different names) and most, if not all, usually works better.
Go to U-Beaut Polishes and click on Tripoli Powder you can click on Distributors at top of page for WA Distributors.
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27th August 2006, 12:31 PM #3Woodworker
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waste of time?
Originally Posted by loz
However, these days I use very fine wet and dry sandpaper, a felt block as backing, and water. I find this process produces an equally fine high gloss finish. And it has the added advantage of less mess, and less time taken to clean up the finished surface between "grits".
Regards
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27th August 2006, 01:29 PM #4Originally Posted by LuckyDuck
I have tried the traditional methods on much smaller pieces with mixed results. I have found it too easy to cut right through a built-up finish if I let my alleged mind wander during the process. Since French polishing takes so much time this can be a real set back.
Like Lucky I now use abrasive papers, and finish up with automotive polishing compounds if a mirror finish is required.
I save the various powders (tripoli, rottenstone) for the odd small piece for when I want to enjoy the process as much as the finished product.
Cheers
Greg
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27th August 2006, 04:37 PM #5Woodworker
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Originally Posted by gregoryq
Originally Posted by gregoryq
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27th August 2006, 04:51 PM #6
Well, pretty much, except I use Meguiar products. I don't know how much functional difference there is in these products, but Meguiars costs more and has its fans in the show car world.
Since we are simply trying to buff out a coating, I got some advice from the local motor accessory dealer. Chances are you can get a reasonably cheap polisher/buffer with a foam pad to do the grunt work. I use the polishing feature on my Rotex for this job, and find that it does a great job.
I have only used this on shellac and lacquer so far, but see no reason why it wouldn't work with any reasonable hard coating.
Greg
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27th August 2006, 08:30 PM #7Woodworker
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Originally Posted by gregoryq
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27th August 2006, 10:05 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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regarding using the auto compounds? any type or is there a specific grade or cut, would i still give the last coat of say poly or single pac a rub with fine wet'n'dry
La HHurry, slowly
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27th August 2006, 10:20 PM #9
No, the auto polishing compounds are simply one way of getting a finer grade of abrasive. My routine is to judge the surface of the applied finish, then start with ,say, 800 paper. If that looks good then I progress to 1200, then 2000 paper, then the next finer grade if I can find one (Autobahn or Repco or your local motor-head store. The car detailers use a lot of this stuff).
Next comes the polishing compounds, in the various grades if available, although by this stage you've already got a great finish. After the polishing the reflectivity of the finish should be as good as it is possible to obtain. At this stage sandpaper, no matter how fine, will degrade the finish.
The wax comes last, after all of the compound has been cleaned from the piece. Final buffing should bring out mirror-like results.
The auto polishes are really just the traditional abrasives (tripoli, pumice, rottenstone etc) in a thick carrier. They do pretty much the same thing, except they are less demanding of operator skill. Anything formulated for the average mouth-breathing doof-doof car nut is right up my alley.
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27th August 2006, 10:38 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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pollished my car today! and funny i was thinking about trying it on a table, was using some nice stuff that smells like bananas that i'v had around for a while...
ps, thought i should through this in...i use microfibre polishing cloths, there great, and i sell them to if anyone wants some...maybe i should but an add or something on the site...maybe ...Hurry, slowly
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27th August 2006, 10:51 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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yeh i did'nt want to do the wrong thing there by the forum...
anyway back to the thread...varnished a dining table today so i'll give the wet'n'dry a go this week...
La HHurry, slowly
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27th August 2006, 10:53 PM #12
Sorry La H, I deleted my caution after I realised that you were a seasoned poster here. For a minute there, for whatever reason, I thought I was the forum cop I'm over it now
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27th August 2006, 11:00 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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yeh i'm usually on here everyday, but been working on the net a lot lately so that's been enough in front of the bloody screen for me...
Hurry, slowly
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28th August 2006, 10:49 AM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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is it best to use a little water when rubbing with wet'n'dry orr how about talc powder...or is it all the same result....
Hurry, slowly
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28th August 2006, 02:42 PM #15
I have both and use both.....
Pumice will reduce the shine on a hard finish to a soft luster. while Rotten stone can bring a hard shine to a matt finish. I use Mineral Oil with both (either) although some prefer water for the Rotten stone.
A few months ago my sister said she had a problem with her dining room table. Seems her daughter-in-law had placed a hot item on the table and blistered the finish. She wanted to refinish the table. I told her to let me get some Rotten stone and Mineral Oil and try to revive the finish. OKay so my right elbow no longer functuns correctly, I brought the finish back to its luster by rubbing down with Mineral Oil and Rotten stone. she is happy, I am Sore and all lives happy ever after.
Both products are a wonderment if you use them correctly.
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