Results 1 to 15 of 16
-
10th August 2006, 10:17 PM #1Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- syd
- Posts
- 59
Rendering - Kitchen walls - How hard?
Hi there I have old tiles that I have taken off with a jack hammer. Underneath this is a cement type layer. When I have been trying to remove that it takes the render off also.
I have about 3 small areas (approx 3 lots of 1.6m x 0.6m - UNDER 3 square metres all up) that will need rendering ..i.e. to fill in about 10-15mm (about 1/2 an inch) where the bricks are now exposed.
How much would this cost to get done as I don't know if I have time to do it myself.??
What material would you be used.
Would thi be a 3hr job for a renderer?
I'll post some pics to follow.
Thanks
-
10th August 2006, 11:32 PM #2
Do it yourself mate, can't take more than 1/2 hour.
Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
-
11th August 2006, 07:33 AM #3Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- syd
- Posts
- 59
Would you be able to get it even enough. We have to put tiles over the top.
Cheers
-
11th August 2006, 04:12 PM #4
Powerbuff you should have no troubles, especially if just for tiles, clean and vacuum the wall then prime with watered down bondcrete. Render with sand cement mix and your done.
Cheers
Pulse
-
11th August 2006, 09:37 PM #5
Powderpuff,
If you want it flat you don't have to be a wiz with a trowel. If you use two thin bits of metal or timber up either side of the wall you can use a straightedge to screed up the line and finish off with a wooden float to give a textured surface for the grout. Think of it as concrete slab on the vertical in terms of technique. The main task is to remove any high bits and some of the muck from the old layer to make sure you don't get to thick. Once the wall is screeded remove the uprights fill and lightly trowel off, just make sure the render is moist not runny and flick a bit of water on with a brush if it dries to fast for you. You are looking for a render thickness of about 4mm to 6mm, hope this helps.
John.
-
13th August 2006, 01:35 AM #6quality + reliability
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 675
Hang on a sec, Rendering is not that easy for most people not skilled using a trowel.
It will take more than 1/2 an hour to mix the render.
Most rederers I know would charge for the day for a job like this, even if it only took 3 or 4 hrs out of the day. Because by the time they call in buy the sand etc go to the job and finish off the best part of the day is over.
You can do it yourself but unless you have had some experience it will take some time.
Johnc's method is good, but for a newbie to redering will find getting sand and cement to stay on the wall difficult to start with.
I have seen many people give it a go and end up with more sand a cement at their feet than on the wall.
Give it a go though. Start at the bottom and work up push the render onto the bricks rather than smearing it over if that makes sense. I does to me cause I'm a plasterer!
Good luckGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
-
13th August 2006, 01:41 AM #7
The most difficult part of this job is geting the mix correct. If thats OK you could almost throw that amount against the wall and then level off.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
13th August 2006, 04:18 PM #8quality + reliability
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 675
Very true the mix is very important.
BTW I miss read the area to be done as 3m x 1.6 not 3 x 1.6 x 600
The smaller are certainly makes things much easier.
CheersGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
-
14th August 2006, 02:18 PM #9Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- syd
- Posts
- 59
Thanks guys. I might buy the things required and have a go. I only have to build out the wall probably about 10mm.
What should I buy? Normal cement bag? Quick set?
What about sand - I wouldn't need much would I?
I am putting tiles over the top so there will be an adhesive layer between the finished rendered wall and the tiles.
So for those small areas would I need 1x 20kg bag of cement (quick set?) and 1 small bag of sand.
If somebody know the mix I should be using it would be great.
Thanks a lot. I didn't realise the mix was that critical.
Cheers
Can somebody have a look below - you can see where the tiles used to be - the build up that is. We are going to try an angle grinder to get the tiles off without digging to deep - has anybody tried this. Or is it best to just keep going with the jackhammer?
So you really think it is worth getting a renderer?
-
14th August 2006, 05:46 PM #10
That electric socket in the wall must be a real NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
It would be here anyway.
My choice would be clean sharp sand, 1 cement to 4 sand. But I am only a DIYerwoody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
14th August 2006, 06:18 PM #11Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- syd
- Posts
- 59
So you don't need anything more special than sand and cement mixed in that proportion.
You can see the rendered wall that we will have to blend the new render to?
Thanks
-
14th August 2006, 11:49 PM #12quality + reliability
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 675
Just the sand and cement is required but you can add a bit of bondcrete (pva glue) to the mix to help it adhere.
Remove all the lumpy stuff first.
Use good quality clean sand though. Also don't forget to wet the wall down before rendering.
CheersGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
-
14th August 2006, 11:55 PM #13
Powerpuff,
You are tiling over so all that matters is a flat finish. A wooden float to finish off will be fine and should give less trouble. The thing to remember is to be gentle it's not a push and shove contest. Put on with a metal trowel, give a light rub with the wooden float then screed from side to side. Tilt the screed back a little at the start which will help move material into the gaps. You can get bags of premix sand and cement and you might be better off getting a couple of bags of that, saves worrying about the formula.
By holding the screed vertical and moving left to right or right to left you will keep it in line with the existing wall. Don't forget to turn off the power to that point and don't fill up the hole, I'd shove a bit of newspaper in the gap to keep the dags out and remove when dry. That point is legal here, I'm not aware of any reg that says you can't fix a power point to brickwork in Oz. Better to be a little hollow at first rather than overfill it will become obvious where you have to add material.
Keep clear of the quickset, you want sand, without lumps.
Goodluck, John.
-
15th August 2006, 12:03 AM #14
Quote.
That point is legal here, I'm not aware of any reg that says you can't fix a power point to brickwork in Oz. Quote
Blimey!!!!!!!!!!!! well I still wouldn't plug a 3 bar electric fire into that socket and have a bath or shower etc at the same time or you might not retile that bathroom again. Serious.
I thought your regulations in Australia were of a more strict nature than ours in the UK.woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
16th August 2006, 02:57 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Sunshine Coast
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 56
Originally Posted by jow104
David L
Similar Threads
-
Hard shellac question
By Harry R in forum FINISHINGReplies: 15Last Post: 28th June 2006, 08:03 PM -
kitchen brewing up some questions
By sandant in forum KITCHENSReplies: 6Last Post: 9th November 2004, 04:42 PM -
Installing a new kitchen
By sidk in forum KITCHENSReplies: 3Last Post: 26th August 2004, 09:23 PM
Bookmarks