Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    1,557

    Default Blackwood Table restoration

    Well I've got an 80 year old blackwood extension dining table which belonged to my grand parents to restore. You know the type, Queen Anne style legs, oval shape , seats 6-8) It has had a few marks and things over the years and appears to have a laquer over some stain as a base. Anyway, it's going to the auction rooms but before it does I thought I'd take the cahnce and have a play at restoring the top to something a bit better than it is at the moment. It will hopefully be worth a bit more that way and it isn't critical for the finish to be perfect so I'm not under pressure.

    It has two leafs which drop in when extended so I've started by removing the varnish or whatever was on them and sanding it with 240 grit and then some 320 and 400. Seems nice and smooth but each leaf is made of 2 pieces joined together and they have come apart slightly (maybe 1 mm over about 30cm in length). These 2 pieces when sanded back appear totally different in colour , one being very light and the other more like I would have expected from blackwood.

    Do you guys have any suggestions on how I should finish the top off ? Most of the old stain etc has gone but not all. It seems to have sunk well into the timber over the years.

    Should I got at it harder to get down into the surface more? A few of the knife marks are small but deep.

    And, given that I'm a newbie at this, what oils do you recommend ?

    PS I'm happy to go and get some Ubeaut stuff and have just got Neil's book.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Gumby,
    I hate to have to say it but what a horrible thing to do an 80 year old!
    A gentle rub with some of Neil's Polish Reviver I can understand but now you've got to glue it up, stain it then finish it all again, I hope it looks like new or do you want it to look antique?
    Maybe a bit of Formica on the top then in 80 years the new knife marks won't be so deep.
    I suppose it depends on your perspective but I like old things to look respectably old.

    best of luck
    Geoff

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    1,557

    Default

    very helpful and informative response Geoff. Before you respond again, maybe it would be a good idea to read my post thoroughly first.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Galston NSW
    Age
    83
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Originally posted by Gumby
    very helpful and informative response Geoff. Before you respond again, maybe it would be a good idea to read my post thoroughly first.
    You could try this (no guarantees - don't sue me but I've tried it on all sorts of things and it works 98% of the time).

    1 part Linseed Oil (does'nt have to be boiled)
    1 part Gum Turpentine
    2 parts Mineral Turps

    Just mix enough for the job and shake the mixture up well in a small jar (it does'nt preserve for all that long).

    Apply with 0000 steel wool (fairly liberally) and keep wiping off excess with an old rag.

    It's worth a try - as I said it's worked for me.

    {NB - don't be too hard on Geoff - he probably means well}.
    R. McCarthy
    Name the greatest of all inventors - accident !

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    The original "laquer" finish was probably just old french polish, which may have been relatively easily restorable
    The light color timber could be, and is most likely blackwood (sapwood timber is very pale - almost white sometimes). In such case the craftsman who built the table used stain to blend the different colors of sapwood and heartwood.
    By sanding to bare wood you have removed all of the patina and thus substantially reduced the value of the table. People who like antiques enough to pay high prices actually desire the wear and tear marks as well as an original patina. The best you can hope for now is to achieve a harvey norman type furniture finish. Antiques with such finishes are hard to sell, so they go cheap.

    BTW 320 grit is far too fine for the oil stain which you will need to blend the timber colors together.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5

    Smile


    Of course I meant well. Bob has said it so much nicer than my tongue in cheek reply.
    If you are thinking of restoring something you need to consider the final result you are after.
    I have used UBeaut 'Polish Reviver' and provided you FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS it has saved me many hours and stpooed me from ruining a few beautiful old heirlooms.
    Some of my mothers' other old furniture wasn't so lucky, the restorer reupholstered the chairs, sanded back the timber (badly) then swathed them in Estapol for only $450. each. Could have bought new blackwood chairs from Grey Owl in Tasmania for $480. each. Now the do look nice!
    Gumby I'm sorry you took offence, I hadn't noticed the Collingwood emblem ( could read the letters). Looks as though the table has come secondbest as well.

    Geoff

    Tongue firmly planted in cheek again

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
    Posts
    1,557

    Default

    Thanks for the thoughts people.
    No problems Geoff, I didn't take it that hard. However it looks like I've gone off half cocked as usual and maybe stuffed it up - why wasn't I born with patience !!!??
    But I must say, it was really buggered in the first place so I'm not that worried about it.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •