Spalted Beech

[Ray J]

Hi' all, I'm relatively new to woodworking.

I've nearly finished a project using Spalted Beech.

Parts of the wood are quite porous. Some are long like wormholes

What is the best way to fill the holes for sanding and oil finishing?

Ray
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[rsser]

Ray, I've just finished a spalted bowl on the lathe.

I didn't want an oiled finish this time; just wanted the lines and colours so I used a couple of coats of nitrocellulose sanding sealer - that helps firm up the soft grain. Will finish off with wax.

Worm holes: leave them as a natural feature? Or else if they're narrow squirt in some CA and sand immediately with 120 grit - makes a good filler that's pretty close in colour (tho not of course if it runs across the spalt line).

[Ray J]

Thank's Ern'

You can view a pic of the timber here.
http://ntlworld.photobox.co.uk/album...photo=71828662

I don't know how to post pic's on here yet.

Ignore the screw holes they are requiered.

I'm not sure I want an oil finish now. Oil will turn it int the colour of the oil wont it.

Ray

[rsser]

Sorry, couldn't log in to see the pic Ray.

Oil will darken timber somewhat and often increases the contrast in the figure. It won't darken it to the point of the same colour of the oil say when seen in a clear jar.

Best to experiment on some scrap.

[Ray J]

Hi' Ern'

I've tried some Liberon finishing oil and boiled Linseed oil side by side on a piece of scrap. The Linseed brings out the grain better than the Liberon. But is a tad darker.

I've used these to good effect on Walnut and Beech in the past. But I want to keep the the lite tone of the Spalted Beech to be different.

I think I'll go your way, a cellulose sanding sealer and wax.

By the way it's an Air rifle stock, (my other hobby) there's not many in Spalted Beech ones arround. I havn't seen any, other than on an American site. It looked so gorgeous I had to have a go at one myself.

Ray

[Ray J]

Hi Ern'

Try this,

Ray