Interior rendering

[Andy Mac]

Hi there,
As part of a laundry refurb, my wife wanted me to render the interior brick walls (the exterior of the whole house was done professionally before we bought the place). The bricks are the generally woeful 1980 ones, with deep recessed mortar, so render seemed the obvious solution, short of panelling.
I've not rendered before, but how hard can it be?! Anyway we bought a bag of stuff called Rockcote PM100 to have a go, and I started on the wall that will be hidden by new bench and sink...just in case it turned out not as easy as I thought!
Anyway, apart from some stiff exercise pushing the mix into the brickwork, it all worked out pretty well. I made a 'pallette'... I don't know what they're called, a board on a stick, onto which I loaded the render, then used it against the wall and trowelled from there. Worked a treat, and caught any slop that spilled as well. I floated the hardening render with a wooden float and its reasonably smooth.
My only problem are the corners of the walls, around doorway and windows. The render tends to fall off right on the apex, so I'm pushing it one way then back the other. Should I make up an angle-iron float and dress the corners that way?

Cheers for now

[ozwinner]

I made a 'pallette'... I don't know what they're called,

Prolly a pallete.
There is an angle bead sold by plaster companys that needs to be nailed onto your external corners before rendering.

Al

[bitingmidge]

Prolly a pallete.

Artists use pallettes, so in your case Andy, that's OK.

Plasterers and brickies use "mud boards".

The corner angle that Oz refers to is available in metal or plastic. Check with your Rockcote supplier to see if the plastic one's OK, or just go straight to the metal one.

They aren't like normal bits of angle iron, they are bent tin, with and exaggerated corner, and the flanges are perforated to let the stuff key to them.

When you trowel the corners, the point of the angle may just show through.

Cheers,

P

[Bodgy]

Just like the guys say.

U shouldn't need the corner trowel with the extrusion,, if you insist Gyprock make one in red plastic, about $2.

[johnc]

The pallete is called a Hawk, but mud board appears to be the brickies version . Using the float on the corners you can run up and down, or from the edge back into the render. Running the float towards the edge pulls material away. Fixing a temporary straight edge up the line of the edge will help you keep the edges straight, a piece of 19mm x 100 or even 45mm x 19mm will do. Just sneak the straight edge out about 1/8" proud of the wall and check with a level that it is vertical and you can't go wrong. You will find the metal edging referred to much easier to use and gives an easy edge for external angles.

John.

[Andy Mac]

Thanks guys,
An edge like that would wear better too, esp.around the doorway. Sounds like the corner edging used for Gyprock, but I'll ask for the rendering version. Attach it to the bricks with plugs and screws?

Cheers,

[bitingmidge]

Do it like a proper tradie and belt some clouts straight into the mortar joints!

If you get the poly render right, it should hold it all in place once it's gone off, but wait for johnc's reply, he may be cheaper than I am, and nowhere near as rough!

Cheers,

P

[johnc]

Do it like a proper tradie and belt some clouts straight into the mortar joints!

If you get the poly render right, it should hold it all in place once it's gone off, but wait for johnc's reply, he may be cheaper than I am, and nowhere near as rough!

Cheers,

P

Midge,

You haven't seen my work , I have some rendering experience but am no tradie. Clouts are as good as anything, they are only there to hold the strip in place until the render sets. A freehand edge is hard to get straight with limited experience, the metal strip does it all for you no skill required. The direction you run your float is not critical on a metal edge either. Finishing off with a wood float as you are doing hides the imperfections that would otherwise show if you finished with a steel trowel. As long as the edges are straight you can get away with a few imperfections in the surface as the eye is drawn to the edge and less so to any dips and bumps.

Goodluck,

John

[rod@plasterbrok]

HMMM.

I would forget the rendering option for internal walls and just stick plasterboard to the bricks with cornice adheasive. I think there is a post in the plastering section with tips, on how to go about it. If not we can soon put one there.

Its a lot easier and will will not hair line crack in the future as render tends to do.

Cheers

Rod Dyson

[myla]

hello,

bed corner bead in with polymer render/or any render for that manner,keep bedding render to a minimum, yes fixings will help

let set over night or will continue to move if trying to do all in one day

this corner bead is your gauge as to how thick render is applied typically

if concerned about hairline cracks then embed a fibreglass mesh into wet render over entire wall on first coat and leave to set

you will have more success doing several thin coats than one thick coat

thankyou
myla