Floor board replacement

[ozjames]

1. Hi Guys

I have a very old Queenslander with pine floors . Boards about 6 inches wide . There are old borers in some floors which were treated before I bought the house 20 + years ago . Some of the boards are spongy and I would like to replace induvidual boards in a few places . Bearing in mind the tongues and grooves whats the drill in getting the old out and the new in
Thanks

[Bluegum]

Hi Ozjames and welcome to the board. I think what you need to is to drill holes at either end of the board your replacing. From there set your saw depth so its just breaking through the board and the then cut.

Once that you have made these cuts then use a chisel to lift the board out of the floor. Clean up the area and then before replacing the new board you need to remove the bottom groove on the board.

It should then go back into place and then its a matter of nailing it back in to place.

[Carpenter]

What Bluegum says, obviously do your cuts over a joist & I make a careful score or cut with a sharp stanley knife where I want to cut the board. On the waste side of this score line drill a series of holes to remove material then chisel out. by scoring a line you'll end up with a neat line to adjoin the new board to. Alternatively, just go out & buy a Fein Multimaster - any excuse to get a new tool!

[bitingmidge]

For amateurs like me... I just route two 1/2" grooves about the same distance from each side, for the length of the board. It makes a mess and it's not as efficient, but because I only do it twice in a lifetime, I'm not good at using chisels as weapons of destruction.

Well actually I am, but they destroy the adjoing boards as well!

So I pull the middle bit out, then just slide the two side bits out of the grooves. Same as above really, just a different weapon of destruction.

You may find that the 6" boards aren't tongue and grooved. That's what happened to me on the last one I did! I went through the whole groove with the router thing only to find (after the first one) that all I had to do was knock them from underneath with a hammer! No fuss no mess!

Cheers

P

[Pulse]

When I had to remove some 6 inch boards I used a circular saw down the board each side to cut the tongues. Over the joists I used a router set to the depth of the board. Then chisel out the corners. To make it easier stand on a large builders square to provide an edge to slide the router along. The other arm of the buuilders angle is held parallel to the grooves.

Hope this helps,
Pulse

[ozjames]

Thanks Guys
The cutting off of the bottom of the groove is a great tip . The rest tells me how to do a clean job

[Ashore]

Depending on the fit as well as removing the bottom groove if you run a plane along the bottom of the tongue of the new board at 30 deg , you don't have to take much off but it lets you slip the new board in easier.

Rgds

[marnslee]

Having just done it I simply used a jigsaw down the length of the board I wanted removed on the tongue side of the damaged board angleing the jigsaw forward over the joists . I then cut across the timber with the jigsaw close to the joist and another near the next joist and pushed the timber out.
If not removing the whole board, over the joist, mark using a square and cut with a jigsaw (on an angle as to not go very deep) and chisel to cut the edges of the remaining timber.
<O
I also us the method of cutting the bottom grove lip to slot in easily.
<O
Good luck

[Larry McCully]

The cool thing is to extract a bad board and replace it sanded and coated to final flloor level on a brand newly sanded and coated floor. If done right you can not tell where the replacement was done . and not even damage or disturb the boards on either side of the replaced one, or even have to recoat them. Ta da !