Results 1 to 15 of 15
-
5th April 2005, 10:05 AM #1
Using black japan on a pine 4 poster bed
Hi.
I am constructing a 4 poster bed in pine and need advice on finishes. My daughter wants it finished in black. I haver read about black japan. Is it a finish in its own right or just a stain? How is it best applied?. Does it dry completely or remain oily?
Thanks
Fungussface"Live every day to the fullest ..... it may be your last."
-
15th April 2005, 10:21 PM #2
Thought you would have had a reply by now from experienced users of japan black. Haven't used it myself but understand it's a good product for obtaining a good solid black finish but with wood grain still showing. Imagine it's similar to a paste stain such as wattyl handyman. Trouble with a lot of black stains is they tend to be muddy, not really clear black. Would expect japan not to be muddy/dull.
believe it needs a clear finish over.Rusty
-
15th April 2005, 10:48 PM #3
-
16th April 2005, 12:03 AM #4
You need to get into Ozwinner's prized 78's (the Max Bygreaves and Val Doonican are his favourite) and whip up some Black Shellac:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...=Black+Shellac
or do a search as my confuzer is sick and I can't post properly.
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}
-
16th April 2005, 09:25 PM #5
Considering its pine I would gather you don't want any real long winded & expensive process.
If you want a good black finish without too muck fuss & still be "crafty" try this.
clean the job up & sand it to a nice finish (240grit ~)
apply a coat of thinned GMH flat black (which is cheap nitro lacquer).
Thinned its like sort of half painty half inky.
Give it a denibbing sand 240 manybee 320.
Give it a couple more thin coats. This stuff dries real fast (thin coats at 28C real fast like minutes)
rub back the final coat with a scotch brite & some "Ubeaut traditional wax"
& polish.
This will give you a satiny lustre without too much work it will also show any grain a bit and it will be BLACK.
If you want less grain & a smoother flatter finish undercoat with wattyl super etch black or similar.
The above are thinners based. best sprayed.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
-
12th July 2006, 08:35 PM #6Originally Posted by soundman
Can you spray clear pre-cat lacquer over the top of nitro lacquer?Rusty
-
12th July 2006, 09:06 PM #7
You'll get GMH black at most auto shops(GMH...Holden)
Dunno about bout the lacquer....................................................................
-
12th July 2006, 09:46 PM #8
GMH flat black is in essence a commodity product and is available from a number of manufacturers.
Almost all automotive paint manufacturers make a version of GMH flat.
I prefer the wattyl product but have used various others, septone do a version but the wattyl seems to be better stuff and tends to bloom less in humid weather.
I have never tried to overcoat GMH with clear precat & I dont think I would bother.
Pre cat laquer is a version of nitro & depending on your method may be sucessfull. but why bother.
If you wanted a black with clear because you were using the black for detail on an otherwise clear finished item I would be inclined to use the black super etch.
the top coat will set the gloss level.
GMH will stand alone as a top coat in many situations & i would go with 2 or 3 coats then wax over rather than clear over.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
-
27th July 2006, 09:18 AM #9Originally Posted by soundmanRusty
-
27th August 2006, 10:54 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 298
built a 4 poster myself and i used black japan...looks awsome...
i use black japan everyday so ask me what you will...
La HHurry, slowly
-
27th August 2006, 10:56 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 298
sorry i did'nt relize this was an old thread, you've probably done it already
Hurry, slowly
-
4th September 2006, 02:31 AM #12
i wonder if jb found out about the handbag handles?
Wouldn't it be nice if there was a combined page(s) of all the tips - such as yours on black japanning pine la Huerta ? Then i could download it and save it as in hoard it until i needed it.
-
4th September 2006, 07:34 AM #13SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Lake Macquarie
- Posts
- 298
just copy and paste the info into you MS word, and then print it out...
...another tip, BL will give you a black like you see on the black chinese furniture, where as black from the auto shop will look like exaxty that jet black...yucky !
maybe it might work on a piano or a set of speakers but pine is a little rustic and you need something to suit, i'v made lots of stuff using old rustic oregon andd several coats of BJ, sealed well with french polish between coats so it gets smother as you put on more coats, results look great...i even did a piece with the antique edges like the chinese furniture has....you can also pretint the timber with black stain before you start with the BJ...
La HHurry, slowly
-
1st August 2008, 10:33 PM #14New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- australia
- Posts
- 1
Black Japan on pine
I'm doing a chest of drawers at the moment out of pine and finishing with black Japan. I must say it looks really good. Give it a try. The grain shows up beautifuly under this stuff. I love it!
-
3rd August 2008, 01:47 AM #15
Antique thread revived.
Closed now. Please open a new thread if anyone feels the need to discuss this further.
Cheers - NeilKEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
Use the Report icon at the bottom of all Posts, PM's and Blog entries.
Bookmarks