Answers Needed for Plastering walls

[Sirgillespie]

Hi guys, first id like to say the site is great and give credit to all the admin.

Well i about to stud my ceiling as it has been texture painted with a really course texture and looks shocking, i have done this before and the plan is then just to nail the sheets on with clouts then flush but the problem i have is with the walls, they are brick that has been painted. I have been told its as easy as slapping cornice cement on the walls then on with the gyprock, this didnt sound like the whole story to me so any information on this would be much apprecited. Thanx Josh

[Jacksin]

I was told by a cornice fixer years ago that cornice adhesive wont stick to a painted surface. If it does it will only be in the short term and eventually let go.

There are other powdered adhesives for this process but I am not certain how they hold onto paint.

[MarkV]

You can use stud adhesive if you clean off the paint on the contact spots. Personally I have never clad masonary/brick surfaces but have been involved in removing old ( 10 year ) gyprock from brickwork where they didn't even bother to knock off the old paint and it was stuck like the proverbial to the blanket. A flap wheel on a grinder is what I use to clean paint off my tongue and groove prior to Gyprocking over it.

[scottyk]

Boral make a plaster mix especially for sticking plaster sheet to masonory walls. Its a dry product and is yellow. You need to chip off any paint or plaster or setting coat. This stuff will hang on and the sheet will pull apart first. Its hard to know how much to put on for each dob and you need to check the face of the sheet after you put it on with a straight edge and tap in any bulges.

[Wildman]

I would attach battens to the bricks at 450 centres then attach the plaster to that. You then get the added benefit or a cavity you can run cables down from the ceiling and slightly better insulating properties.

A bit more work than just gluing to the bricks but a lot easier to replace if required.

Cheers
Ben

[silentC]

You're getting off beam there chaps. He doesn't want to plaster over the brick, he wants to stick cornice to it. Personally, I would never stick anything to paint. It might hang on for ten years but it might not. Ever seen paint peeling off brickwork? I have. Imagine if your cornice is hanging off it.

I would strip the paint off, glue up the cornice, and then a fresh coat of paint.

[Pulse]

Josh, This post has some advice that may help:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...e+cement+pulse

Welcome to the forum

Pulse

[Sirgillespie]

Thanks guys i might just go the batten way seen as i have to do the ceiling aswell, thanks for all the info, one more question thoughhow much do you think i should pay for gyprock, whats a good price per sheet, and i do have access to trade discount. cheers

[Sirgillespie]

Cheers Pulse

[MarkV]

You're getting off beam there chaps. He doesn't want to plaster over the brick, he wants to stick cornice to it. Personally, I would never stick anything to paint. It might hang on for ten years but it might not. Ever seen paint peeling off brickwork? I have. Imagine if your cornice is hanging off it.

I would strip the paint off, glue up the cornice, and then a fresh coat of paint.

Hmm Who's off the Beam now eh Silent?

[scooter]

Bunnings over here is about $13 for 2400x1200x10mm.


Cheers.................Sean

[silentC]

Hmm Who's off the Beam now eh Silent?

It's not my fault he's fickle

[MrFixIt]

Thanks guys i might just go the batten way seen as i have to do the ceiling aswell, thanks for all the info, one more question thoughhow much do you think i should pay for gyprock, whats a good price per sheet, and i do have access to trade discount. cheers

Waaayyy to much work! The best way is to use the proper masonry cement on to CLEAN brickwork/masonry.

The stuff sticks REALLY well to brickwork (did it recently in my own extensio/reno). You use it just like stud adhesive same size daubs of the stuf same centres.

The only problem you will need to deal with is the removal of the existing paintwork to enable a good brick surface - and that is not too hard a problem.

If you are happy with the straightness and flatness of the walls now then the gyprock over the brickwork will be just as good or better (smother finish on the gyprock).

To do this job with battens is DOUBLE the work, plus you have to measure the spacing to coincide with the gyprock edges etc. The walls will sound hollow when finished giving the impression of a brick veneer construction. The extra insulation property in negligible. The use of the cavity for future wiring is debatable (thouigh I have no doubt that "one day" you say if only... ) If you "think" there is a potential need for future wiring, then chase the walls NOW, prior to the gyprock covering!

BTW what about any skirting? This would require much more attention if you use the batten method of gyprock attachment, as you will aslo need a "filler" behind the gyprock to which you can attach the skirting.

[johnc]

Totally agree with Peter, we covered up a brick feature wall years ago using ordinary stud adhesive to fix direct to the bricks. Maybe the special masonary brew wasn't available then, or just didn't know it existed. There have been no problems since, I would not use battens for all the above reasons.

John

[rod@plasterbrok]

I know this thread is old But I felt I should put my bit in as a plasterer and plasterboard retailer.

First everone who said don't stick to paint is correct.
Never use stud adhesive to brick work it won't hold in place.

Chip paint off bricks at 450 x 450 centers and along where the join will be 50mm below the join and 50mm above. And along floor line (also supports skirrting).

Use either cornice adhesive or masonary adhesive both work well.

Daub sizes about the size of a lemon, make all daubs as near as you can to the same size. It helps with leveling. Make the daubs protrude from the wall not flat. Tapping the sheet back will flatten them out, and it helps getting the walls flat. Tap sheet back gently using a straight edge as long as you can get to fit.

If you have plumbing or wiring to cover or the wall is very bad stick 100mm x 100mm 10mm plasterboard blocks at each fixing point you can straighten these with a staight edge as well. When these have set stick the board on as described before.

As for the price of plasterboard if you live in Melbourne Sydney or the ACT you should never pay more than $9.50 + GST for a 2400 x 1200 sheet.

We have about 20 locations throughout these areas where you can pick up sheets for this price. Email me or see our web site. I wouldnt blantently advertise my prices here except that Most people are paying the big boys just too much for plasterboard. I hope the site admin don't mind.

Cheers

Rod Dyson

P.S I love this board and will drop by often with practical plastering advice.