Splintering wood

[DPR]

Hi all.
I'm in the process of sanding the legs of a table I've been making out of recycled messmate. However the wood is splintering and peeling not only on the edges but also on the faces. I started with an 80 grit sander and I'm up to 150 grit. I was intending just to apply oil for a finish but I'm wondering whether I should apply something different. I don't seem to be having the same problem with the table top. Any help would be very much appreciated.
David

[Auld Bassoon]

Have you tried running a smoother (hand plane) over the messmate legs?

[JB]

What do you mean peeling?

[RETIRED]

What is the size of the legs? Solid or laminated? Air or kiln dried.? Square or turned?

It sounds like cell collapse to me and there is not a lot you can do to get a really really smooth finish but you could try this.

Sand down to about 320 with the grain apply 2 coats of shellac or lacquer sanding between each coat. Let dry for about 2 days so that it is well dried.

Sand down to about 600 starting at the 320. Hopefully the coats that you applied will "bond" the splintery bits and lthey won't raise.

You may have to consider a different finish if they don't stick. Shellac or lacquer maybe and rubbed back lightly.

HTH.

[DPR]

Thanks guys. In answer to your questions the wood is recycled joists/beams from an old tyre factory in West Melbourne. When I bought it was 110mm square and I have cut it down to 80mm square. So its solid timber.

I have attached some pictures showing the 'peeling' on the faces and the edge splintering. I have sanded it to 150grit but the peeling is happening as I'm sanding and so I end up with more holes than I started with. Also in the 2 pictures of the edge splintering ie the dark lines - the splinters there are loose and will break away if I hit them.

wrg to your comments I seem to recall reading somewher that you could use thinned hide glue to seal it - would this be of any use.

[ribot]

I'd try what says.
Your photo's look like what I would call internal checking. If you look at the end grain it will probably look like open splits or honeycomb if you like.
The problem with internal checking is it runs all the way through the piece of timber so you can't really do anything about it except maybe get a coat of finish thick enought to cover the defect.
Oh yea, internal checking occures from poor kiln drying practises.

[JB]

Apart from a very thick finish of anything, you may find you have to chisel or sand each of the cavities so they become a feature and won't catch on clothing/fingers etc. I've had to work on similar timber and it's a pain in the proverbial. Another effective method I used was scrubbing coarse sand along the grain to smooth the cavities.

[MilesB]

Did you get this wood from Shiver Me Timbers in Williamstown? I got some 110 square messmate from there and haven't had too many problems. A little splintering, but not too much.

[DPR]

Hi MilesB. Just picked up your posting. No I bought it from the Delta Group in port Melbourne. Apparently it was recycled from the Olympic tyre factory in Footscray. I bought 5 lengths 32mmx 250mm x 2500mm for the top and aprons and then one piece 110mm x 110mm x 3000mm and one 110 x 110 x1000 for the legs. The smaller piece is fine, it is the 3 legs that I cut from the long piece that have the problem. Incidentally the good piece is much heavier than the other 3. The top etc are OK too. So far I have sanded to 240 grit and its looking better but I am going to do what says just in case. I will keep you informed of the outcome - school holidays now so not much chance of doing anything!