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  1. #16
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    Thanks Skew, but how did you sand the bottom then? I guess it either isn't sanded or hand sanded off the lathe...

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy
    G'day Skew, my (non-turners) opinion would be to go with Jarrah and roll the lip so the two bases joined at the rolled segment. I hope that makes sense. The idea being to put a shadow line where the join will be.
    Yes, I think you're right there. The redgum ring was just a quicky to give me an idea of the final proportions. The lip of the base is already rounded, so it'll be a simple matter to do similar to the ring to create a shadow line. Either that, or I need to lower the height of the ring by a mm or two to give a tight joint.

    Quote Originally Posted by CameronPotter
    Thanks Skew, but how did you sand the bottom then? I guess it either isn't sanded or hand sanded off the lathe...
    The pic shows the offcut mounted on the pin-jaws. As you can see there's about 1" clearance to the chuck body, enough to be able to work both sides with care. Like I said, this way may not be as safe as a faceplate, but is much quicker'n'easier. Although I started with a 1/2" blank, the ring is only about 1/4" thick; I turned and sanded both sides before seperating from inside the top rebate.

    I did it this way to make a ring with a nice rebate around the inside edge for the lip of the base. (Pic 2) Because the base is hollow I didn't want to seal in the air-space; that'd lead to future problems.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  3. #18
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    Thanks again.

    I still have a lot to learn about how to chuck some of the flatter objects (I also have a pretty limited range of chucks - i.e. one).

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CameronPotter
    I still have a lot to learn about how to chuck some of the flatter objects (I also have a pretty limited range of chucks - i.e. one).
    That's all you need... so long as it's a good one. That's why I recommend a choice of either one of Technatools' (eg SuperNova2) or VicMarcs' chucks. For the record, I'm in the Teknatool camp: 2x SuperNova2's and 2x Compact Precision Midis.

    The selection of jaws available for 'em are amazing! I've a dedicated chuck for each lathe, but I can swap my jaws between 'em without hassle. Except for one pair, which just don't fit on a mini-lathe. I recommend the pin-jaws, the std. 45 mm, the super-grips and a set of cole-jaws as a good all 'round set that covers most situations.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #20
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    Unhappy Fix one, botch another! :(

    I tried Tassie Oak and Jarrah rings today; the Tassie Oak looked blah again and the Jarrah, well... it's the pick of the lot so far. (Pic 1) It's too dark, IMHO, but I'm running out of scrap timbers to try, unless I start cutting up major stock or turning blanks for other projects. [sigh]

    So this is how it stays, for now anyway... it's been one of those anti-Midas days, where everything I touch turns to ####.

    Which brings me to another problem: I turned another goblet this arvo and was in the final cuts of seperating off when I sneezed... it seperated OK, but I fumbled the catch. :mad: It didn't survive (pic 2) but I'm thinking that maybe I could turn it into a lidded box? I could drill out the stem from the base (Pic 3) and insert a finial, then turn a groove the dia. of the goblet lip to centre it on the bowl... it's a bit thin for the more usual rebates used on lids.

    The problem is making a base for the bowl... the bowl only varies in thickness from 2mm at the lip to 4 mm at the base and, being rounded the way it is, this means I can't just turn the bottom flat. I could turn the remnant of the stem into a dowel and make anotyer base, but... what shape of base would look best? I think a flat disk would look silly, perhaps a gentle cone? Maybe something that comes part-way up the side of the bowl, contoured to wrap around the base a bit like an egg-cup? Or perhaps I should just turn a new, slightly thicker stem from a contrasting timber and dowel the exiting stem bits into it?

    So far I'm not happy with anything I've thought of, so once again I ask:

    Suggestions anybody?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #21
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    G'day Skew,
    The first goblet looks a treat, definitely don't turf it. I've got a bit of sliced mallee stump that I reckon would suit the base pretty well. It is about 20 - 22mm thick & has a fairly wild grain configuration - just your typical burl really.
    I think the colour(s) would blend in rather well.
    If you are interested, P.M. me your mailing address & I'll send a couple of 75mm x 20mm pieces to you.
    Regards,
    Barry.
    P.S. I've attached a picture of a lidded box that I turned last year that has a piece of the mallee stump let into the lid.

  7. #22
    ss_11000 is offline You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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    the stem looks too thick to snap by dropping it, what was it dropped on?
    S T I R L O

  8. #23
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    Stirlo, the cove on the bottom of the stem is/was only about 4mm thick, the thickest part of the stem (the top bead) just under 9.5mm. You could only fit two 20c pieces across the base. It's only a small goblet... not a full-grown gob.

    What it dropped on? Well, it bounced out of my hand, onto the lathe bed and dropped to the conc. floor. One part was to one side of the lathe, the rest to the other. I don't know if it snapped when it hit the bed or when it hit the floor, with a piece rolling under the lathe. I was still recovering from the sneeze. [sigh]
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #24
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    Thanks for the advice Skew... When I said one chuck I also meant one set of jaws (or two including the cole jaws...)

    As for gobbie #2. I reckon a bowl is a nice idea and I think that I would sit it on another bulbous type shape. i.e. Much like the goblet shape, but a little smaller and upside down (so what would look like the lip is actually the base).

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

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