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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Wagga, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5

    Default WET Plastering V. DRY Wall / Gyprock ?

    Need advice pls. Got a crappy toilet room (just re-read that.. ha. pardon the pun), that's quite narrow with painted, uneven, brickwork. Was going to gyprock it with 10mm sheets, but with the sheet plus the plaster cement it will come out at least 15mm from the wall, on both sides, so I'll lose a good 3cm of width. Narrow at the moment at about 80cm wide.. old style. Losing 3cms of width isn't going to be an option. Brickwork is uneven with about a 5-7 mm variance in surface eveness. Thinking about rendering with a 'wet plaster' compound. Need advice on what product to use. Cornice cement ? (I know it has other applications than just cornices - is it strong enough), other plaster rendering compound ? Appreciate comments. Cheers guys... (and gals).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,026

    Default

    Jase,
    gyprock should only add 10mm to each side as you only set the reccessed edge. I would suggest villaboard (recessed edge cement sheeting) as it will only add 6mm a side and performs better in a wet environment. Rendering takes a lot more skill than just flushing the recessed edges of villaboard or gyprock and unless you've got a feel for working with plaster or concrete you'll find it near impossible to get a good result.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wagga Wagga
    Age
    71
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Hello jase,I would suggest the same solution as Mick,I think you would get a better result fixing villaboard to the wall rather than trying to render it.You can use cornice cement to patch up old damaged plasterwork etc, but it wouldn't be suitable for what you are doing.Maybe some of the acrylic type renders such as Redirender ,Macrender etc would do the job if you are set on finishing it that way but they wouldn't be all that easy to apply in that situation I don't think (but I'm a bricklayer not a renderer)Maybe you can cost out the two options .Riverina Plasterworks (Norton st)would tell you how much tha villaboard sheets cost and I think some of the paint suppliers could supply the acylic coatings.You'll be able to pack out the villaboard ok if the variance is only that much (5 to 7mm)I'm not quite sure what you'll do up top if the villaboard if projecting past the present cornice though.Does it have cornice or just a timber cover strip?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
    Age
    69
    Posts
    559

    Default

    As far as the cornice goes, you could always rip it off and replace once the cement sheets are in place. If its cove going up to the next size will probably avoid the need to sand the old adhesive back. Sheet does seem the most cost effective method and the one most likely to produce a respectable job.

    John.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Wagga, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Guys, thanks one and all. Villaboard sounds like the plan. Will check with the guys at Riv Plasterworks. Terry... you've done your homework. Regarding questions on Cornice - its a bit of a shambles in there. There's a fake timber ceiling at about 6.5 feet with another 2.5 feet of space above that ceiling creating what can only be classed as "storage space". Then there's the usual few cm's of cement render on the brick with about 2mm plaster veneer over it, meeting another wooden ceiling which needs a full plaster covering, which will get a new cornice anyway. Basically, its all uneven, unsquare and needs a full refit. The joys of buying a 'renovators dream'. The plastering isn't a problem. Did 3 full rooms with Gyprock when we moved in, just the available space was an issue in this room.. but, the board sounds like the plan. If it will save me another cm either side. Consider 'sitting down' and falling asleep on the throne. In this one, you're not going to fall very far, with a very close wall to rest your head on. Thanks again guys.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Newcastle/Tamworth
    Posts
    416

    Default

    I did this in a kitchen recently, found the best way was to chip the paint off all the high points and then dust and prime with bondcrete 50:50 diluted with water. Let dry and use big globs of cornice cement to glue the sheet. Sticking directly to the paint will eventually fail.
    Cheers
    Pulse

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Wagga, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks Pulse.
    Time is getting closer - ripped the false ceiling out yesterday, just about to place the order for the board and cement etc. Will let you know how it progresses. Cheers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Wagga, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hi All - UPDATE - although looking at my last post (Jan) to now (Nov).. lets just say I been busy with the other fourhundred and sixty projects I got on. 3mm durasheet affixed with standard plasterboard bonding cement. All good. haven't painted it yet, but have surfaced the joints... Will give it a good undercoat / sealer and another sand before painting. The old cement sheet products tend to 'fibre up' pretty good when painting and not sealed correctly... in a tight environment, using 3mm sheet versus 10mm plasterboard saved me 14mm of space... might not sound a lot, but with what was a small room to start with... a little bit is a lot. OK, next project !!! Stormwater in front yard... Yay.

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