for any doubters of EEE ultra shine

[Rowan]

little story for any folks out there that may not be using EEE yet (produced by our esteemed host, from whom I recieve no gain for this plug)

Have a couple of weeks off and a market coming up so I decided to make a couple of coffee tables, and a couple of new burl bowls to have ready to go. Tables are Redgum burl slab top and mallee root base. Spent the first 3 days sanding the table tops all the way to 1200, and they both looked great. Then carved the bowls and sanded them. Then it was time to finish them off. I spray mirratone 60% gloss pre-cat laquer. Been about 6 months since I sprayed anything, and even then I am still learning but this time everything that could go wrong did. I sprayed the laquer too thick, with not enough pressure flowing and not enough liquid coming out. Luckily I knew that I was getting it wrong and only sprayed the one table top, but was stubborn enough to keep going and gave it 4 coats of bad spray. :eek: Bottom line was that in the end I had a top that was so rough and pitted that I thought I would have to re-sand and spray again. But I had a mate come round and suggest I try cutting it back before I went to the trouble of re-sanding it. So out with the 600 wet/dry and a good sand then I got out the "Ubeaut EEE ultra shine cream" and went for it. (I do use it regularly with anything turned, just hadn't thought of it for this type of job)

End product was a finish that was better than any spray job I have previously done and from here on in I will be using EEE after spraying all table tops.

SO FOR ANYONE OUT THERE LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT CUTTING COMPOUND LOOK NO FURTHER THAN "EEE ULTRA SHINE" - SUPPLIED BY OUR WONDERFUL HOST!!!!!

[ubeaut]

Boy oh boy Rowan, if ya reckon it was good on the crappy spray job you're gunna be knocked out when ya use it in a goodun. Its downright flabagasting... :eek:

Hehehehe....... Ya just love that EEE don't ya, the stuff really does work.

We recently dumped our slogan on Shellawax "Polish with a gimmick... It works!" Our latest shipments to USA left yesterday with a new slogan "Hey, this stuff really works!"

Maybe we should put it on EEE too.

Cheers - Neil

[underused]

G'day Neil,

Do You ship any of Your products off to Japan by any chance?
You'd probably make a killing if You advertised it properly here.
Cheers. Gary.

[TTIT]

Boy oh boy Rowan, if ya reckon it was good on the crappy spray job you're gunna be knocked out when ya use it in a goodun. Its downright flabagasting... :eek:

Hehehehe....... Ya just love that EEE don't ya, the stuff really does work.

We recently dumped our slogan on Shellawax "Polish with a gimmick... It works!" Our latest shipments to USA left yesterday with a new slogan "Hey, this stuff really works!"

Maybe we should put it on EEE too.

Cheers - Neil

Neil - I've just started using EEE on it's own on my turnings - 2 doses each time - just the right sheen, silky smooth to touch, lets the aroma of Rosewood and Camphor come through and no waiting for anything to dry - all good. What I need to know is...
1. What will it look like in 6 months/5 years time?
2. If it won't last, what do you put under/over it to hold the finish?

[Iain]

TT, it's not a finish as such, but a base for a finish, try shellawax (turning) or Traditional Wax (flat Surfaces) over the top and you will then have the finish that will last.
EEE is just like sanding, albeit very fine, and does not offer any protective coating.
I have been using it for some time inconjunction with Shellac or Hard Shellac followed by EEE Paste then Traditional Wax.
Before this I would spend hours with Organoil, a nice finish but very labour intensive, the above combo yields the same result in a fraction of the time and a hell of a lot less effort.

[ubeaut]

Answers:

1/ 6 mth awful, 5 years bloody awful

2/ On the lathe put Shellawac, Shellawax Cream or a combination of both or Shellawax Glow over the EEE. Under the EEE almost anything.

EEE IS NOT a finish. EEE IS an abrasive.


As a rule EEE is used prior to applying any of the Shellawaxes or as a final cut over almost any other finish to eliminate blemishes and bring up a brighter finish.

It can also be used prior to finishing with our (unmentionable) Waxtik or any other wax finish.

However in your case (on rosewood and camphor laurel) using it is probably preferable to anything else other than the waxtik or an oil as both are oily timbers and will dull the shellawaxes.

Using EEE as a finish on raw timber will bring up a brilliant glow but the surface of the timber is still basically raw wood as most of the wax is taken off the work into the application rag. This means that the finish will mark and spot with water and will dull off with any moisture in the air and with handeling.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

[ubeaut]

Well done Iain you (not so) little thunder stealer you.

[Iain]

Obviously just a faster finger

[TTIT]

However in your case (on rosewood and camphor laurel) using it is probably preferable to anything else other than the waxtik or an oil as both are oily timbers and will dull the shellawaxes.

Using EEE as a finish on raw timber will bring up a brilliant glow but the surface of the timber is still basically raw wood as most of the wax is taken off the work into the application rag. This means that the finish will mark and spot with water and will dull off with any moisture in the air and with handeling.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

Actually Neil - no help at all. I've got some Shellawax Glow but I find it too glossy and I have major trouble getting an even finish with it on bigger items (yes, I've read the tips but it still doesn't work for me!) What I need is something (preferably instant) that leaves the same sheen as EEE. I've used Scandinavian oil for a while now which has the satiny sheen I like but holds me up on the lathe waiting for coats to dry. Gotta be something out there that will rub on a satin finish????:confused:

[RufflyRustic]

Answers:


.......
Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

Yes, but darn it, now I have to take off the barrel top chest fittings, put on traditional wax, then put the stuff back on, rats!!!!! another lesson learnt the hard way.

thanks
Wendy

[OrcaSoul]

Quick question on using Ultra Shine & Shellawax - works fine, but some bowls (most of maple) seem to have some dull spots &/or streaks on close inspection. I thought this was due to a bit of CA I used to patch a hole in one piece, but am seeing it in others as well. I was able to cover most with a second coat, but still not perfect.

What I'm wondering is if I can put a coat of the Ultra Shine over the Shellawax, and leave that as the top coat - it has the sheen that does an awesome job of bringing out the glow of the tiger maple. I know (from this thread) that it won't do well on it's own, but will it dull out when used over the Shellawax?

Or should I just use a "regular" fine wax over the Shellawax?

[Cliff Rogers]

Quoting from the web page.....

EEE - Ultra Shine can also be used after the application of Shellawax to finely cut the surface giving a brilliant dry shine. Used over Organ Oil, Danish oil, polyurethane and lacquered surfacer as a final finish EEE - Ultra Shine will give the same brilliant dry shine rather than that wet looking shine that many finishes get.

[OrcaSoul]

Quoting from the web page.....

So it won't lose the shine after a few weeks or months? I remember reading in this thread from ubeaut that Ultra Shine used alone will turn in a few months (" 1/ 6 mth awful, 5 years bloody awful") - want to avoid that if I can...

[RufflyRustic]

Hi OrcaSoul,

Trust what UBeaut says, he invented EEE. So yes, the shine produced by EEE will fade as he said.

But why not try it for yourself

cheers
Wendy

[OrcaSoul]

Hi OrcaSoul,

Trust what UBeaut says, he invented EEE. So yes, the shine produced by EEE will fade as he said.

But why not try it for yourself

cheers
Wendy

I'll give it a try - but the pieces I need to do it on have to be ready in a week...I'll see how they look with some wax...

Thanks,

Stephen