Re: Polyurethane Varnishes

[TOMARTOM]

I have a few completed pieces of furniture that require finishing. I am not overly confident in the finishing area, and would probably stick to a polyurethane varnish. In a book I am currently reading (Furniture Restoration and Repair by Kevin Jan Bonner, he recommends "thinning the varnish with white spirit by 10-30 %. Does this apply to all Polyurethane Varnishes or are there water based varnishes and spirit based varnishes. I was also going to apply a wax( beeswax and turpentine after the varnish). Is this a good Idea?

The wood being varnished is inlaid blackwood with Jarrah and also Jarrak and Australian Oak.

Your assistance is greatly appreciated


Tony V

The woods being varnished

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[Shane Watson]

Tony,

Thinning it will aid in the application, but it can also create problems for the inexperienced. It really depends on how you intend to apply the finish. If your going to be spraying, then thinning is usually always required ( although i don't ). If you will be brushing it on, I would probably leave it as it is until your more confident using it this way. Or if you intend to use a rag or similar then yeah, thin it, as this technique works on only applying very thin amounts at a time.

BUT while there is no problem in applying a wax after you have polished your piece with poly-u. I would suggest that if this is your intention, scrap the poly-u idea and just give the piece a few coats of Shellac, then finish with your desired wax. A much easier solution to your finishing problem. Much cheaper too!

Anyway, I am sure others will have some suggestions for you as well!

HTH and welcome to the board! Jump in and ask questions and indeed contribute! But don't forget a good sense of humor

Cheers!



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Shane Watson..

Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece!

[TOMARTOM]

Thanks Shane for your reply. I will run with that advice. I could use some advice as the purchase of the shellac and how to apply it.

1. Should I apply the shellac as per se' the french polish way with a 'rubber(cotton and cotton wool), or is there another method?

2. Is there a specific type (colour) you would recommend and a preferred brand.

...again thanks for the assistance

Tony V

[ubeaut]

Tony - Your best bet would be white shellac as it will not darken the timber any more than wetting it with water.

For more information CLICK HERE and then on the link for Dewaxed White Shellac, while you are there also have a look at the Shellac and the Traditional Wax links.

Wax and turps is not really a good idea. Buy a proprietry wax in many instances it is much better and a lot less dangerous. Avoid the typical (every one makes it) beeswax paste as it is too soft and will attract finger marks and dust etc.

Hope this helps.

Cheers - Neil
More blatant advertising. SO WHAT!!

[Shane Watson]

Tony,

Putting Neils blatant advertising aside.... He is spot on.

1. Application can be done in many ways when using shellac. You don't have to use traditional methods, your not trying to achieve a french polished finish. Basically, you need to seal the timber and then get a small amount of build. This may intail being applied by brush, rag, rubber, sprayed etc. Cutting back with good quality abrasives inbetween coats. Probably 3 coats is more than enough, but you can go further or less, its up too you. Then using either steel wool or the new synthetic stuff, gently rub the wax on the surface in the direction of the grain. Let the wax 'haze' off a little, then buff with a soft rag. Beautiful! But if you do intend on spraying the shellac, be careful, its not the easiest material to spray and get an even coverage without orange peel. Spraying the seal (first) coat is fine, but don't make it thick. Then its probably best to continue with a rubber for the next coat-s.

2. There is nothing wrong with using just a normal orange flake shellac. It is an easier form to obtain - in the country anyhow..... But as Neil suggested, White Shellac or Blonde shellac is probably the better choice although usually slighty more $$$ And it won't darken the natural colouring of the timbers. And yes you really can't go much further than the traditional Wax. I have used it for a while now and can't fault it... yet.... But again, the choice is yours, a beeswax is fine, but I really would recommend Neils Wax. Besides his ears are full of it, so he needs to be dewaxed!!

Hope This Helps!

Cheers.



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Shane Watson..

Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece!

[Jeff]

Just a note: Water-base clearcoat polurethanes do exist and some of them are excellant products. I am not aware of what brands you may have available in yer country, or if they will be comatible with the wood you are using. Perhaps someone in your neck of the world can advise on that? I have had great success here in the states with Behr Polyurethane water-base clearcoat.