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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default Removal of Load Bearing Wall

    Hi All,

    Hoping I can get some help here, not having much luck in the local phone book with Builders, obviously got it too good at the moment! We are wanting to pull out a load bearing wall (we have already been told it is) in the kitchen and extend/renovate the kitchen area. I have attached a basic layout and was wondering if anyone out there would have an idea what sized beam is required and how it is fixed/supported at each end. The area is on the ground floor of a 2 story house (23 yrs old), all framing is hardwood & I would think Cyclone rated being in Queensland. Please let me know if you require any more details.

    Cheers

    Darren

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    newcastle
    Posts
    216

    Default

    greaper,

    need to know whats above the wall, which way the joists run, if the bearer is face joined or under joists , are they single joists that go the whole length, or do they end over a load bearing beam/wall. Finally you will need to know roof construction type.

    Onesteel for steel speccies, and futurebuild for the timber options - the design tables will teach you how to work out Floor Load Width and Roof Load Width.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks for the prompt response pharmaboy2,

    The joists (approx 450mm centres) run perpendicular to the proposed beam and existing load bearing wall from one external wall to the other across the house and are supported in the middle by a large steel beam that runs the length of the house held up by 2 supports (you can sort of see that in the pic). There is a long load bearing wall running in line with the proposed beam (see pic). Above this area is another kitchen and the kitchen wall would be out at least another metre (halfway between the existing, soon to be demolished wall and the large steel beam). The roof is built with trusses & tiled. I'll try & update my drawing and repost.

    Darren

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Queanbeyan
    Age
    60
    Posts
    732

    Default

    We removed a load bearing wall at home and replaced it with a hanging beam. We then tied the struts for the roof collar to that beam. I think the beam was 2 by 8.

    This is a pic showing the removal

    My misgiving though, would be if you have to be told it's a load bearing wall then there's the possibility that the job is beyond you? Make sure you get someone with nous in to see and advise closely (read - do it for you) on the job.

    Photos would be a help
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    2,869

    Default

    Greaper,

    You need someone with experience to inspect before you do anything. Send me a PM and I'll put you in touch with a local engineer, and builder who can help.

    I'd suggest hiring a builder who understands the codes for the grunt work, to ensure it's done properly, then finishing it yourself.

    Cheers,

    P

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default Load Bearing Wall

    I have updated drawing. I have had 3 builders around to quote to do the work, they take all the measurements, tell me what they are going to do etc etc and then we never hear back, don't return calls etc (going on 4 weeks now since the first one came). That's why I'm keen to have a go myself as we have now missed our opportunity with the plasterers & kitchen guys (after Xmas when they were quiet) waiting for these guys to quote & then turn up to do the work... the beam size that was bandied around was 250 x 50 but what type/what rating/cost.. no idea, couple of studs at each end and voilla.
    I'll take a couple of photos this arvo & try & post them tonight...but I am keen to get on with this ASAP.

    Cheers

    Darren

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    161

    Default

    A quick trip to the nearest structural engineer will give you the size required and what's needed for supporting it. Make sure no floor joists are joined on the wall being removed aswell.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    62

    Default

    take bitingmidge's offer and PM him - having watched our builder do what you want to do on a single storey building I wouldn't dream of touching it for a two storey building.
    What are the consequences of not doing it right - ring your insurance company and ask if you are covered if the work you undertake yourself fails and the floor above comes on down......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I have PM'ed bitingmidge, I'll wait to hear back from him, he's probably still applying the RID and gsouth there are no joists joining on the wall in question, they all go at least as far as the large steel beam if not all the way through to the other side of the house.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    2,869

    Default

    PM received and response fired off!

    Might have to do a bit of climbing up Buderim Mountain one day soon...

    Cheers,

    P

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    newcastle
    Posts
    216

    Default

    just sticking the numbers into design IT, 250/50 seems a little small, a 240/63 hyspan beam would do it (assuming floor load only - no load bearing walls above floor area).

    The complicating factor is your existing beam - you will be increasing the load onto that beam which may put it over its design capacity. Because of that complicating factor, i'd be getting an engineer over. the reason the builders have scarpored is probably relating to this as well - they cant easily specify as it effects existing. Engineer might walk in and say no probs, its effect is still within parameters or he might want the post moved.

    Biting midges's mate to the rescue i'd say ($200 for an engineer in this case would be well spent)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    161

    Default

    The job itself is quite simple as it's been presented, if installing one beam is the entire job then there's zero value in it for a builder, hence the trouble finding one who's interested in the job.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Bitingmidge's Engineer is coming over today, I'll keep you all informed....

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Greaper
    Take the advise and engage an Engineer
    You will get a complete analysis
    You will get not only the beam size but the support size and, if he/she is half decent, connection details as well
    You may even get an idea you have not considered

    And above all you will get the cover of professional indemnity insurance

    Not bad for a few hundred bucks

    If you do it yourself you willget none of this and if you dont have an owner builders licence you may well vitiate your own household and public risk insurance

    Tread carefully

    Cheers
    HarcX

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Buderim
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Engineer has been he said it was a very simple job, no hidden problems etc, the beam required is a 195 x 85 Hynebeam 17C, held up at each end by two 70 x 55 MGP12 (what does this mean?) Studs, I'll see if I can find a stockist tommorrow. A builder is supposed to be coming to quote (hmmm been here before) tommorrow arvo and another on Saturday morning...I'll keep you informed of the progress. I have some photos I might post them tommorrow...Thanks everyone for all your comments.

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