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Thread: Silky Oak Finish
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18th February 2006, 08:24 PM #1New Member
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Silky Oak Finish
Anyone have advice on the best finish for a silky oak chair?
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18th February 2006, 08:39 PM #2You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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i made a silky oak clock and just used a couple of coats of laquer and it turned out really good
should work the same with a chair but i rekon you should use a couple more things to give it more shineS T I R L O
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22nd February 2006, 07:33 PM #3Senior Member
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Polishing Silky Oak
I bought an old silky oak table and 4 chairs some time ago. The table was black (probably shellac) so I sanded it all back to bare wood. I then dry sanded 120, 220 and 320. Then painted on Feast Watson Floorseal ( a tung based oil) and wet sanded with 400. When dry, dipped 600 wet & dry into the oil and resanded. Did this again with 800 and 1200.
The finish on the top is fabulous. Haven't got around to the chairs yet.
Don
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23rd March 2009, 05:09 PM #4New Member
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Hi Don
I am restoring a silky oak table and have followed your instructions carefully. Today I am up to the 600 wet and dry dipped in the floorseal but I just want to be sure I am doing the right thing as the sand paper feels funny and it doesn't seem to be an even coating. Also I put the first coat on yesterday but it is still a little tacky today. I live in Kyogle and it has been quite humid. Should I wait until it feels really dry? What if I have stuffed up the side I did today with the 600. How can I redeem it?
So many questions!
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24th March 2009, 04:37 PM #5Senior Member
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I also use Feast Watson Floorseal ( a tung based oil) and what Don said
cheers
conwood
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24th April 2009, 09:28 AM #6New Member
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Floorseal finish
I have followed Don's instructions on my silky oak table but when I sand the floorseal with the 400 wet and dry the result is a bit streaky. Has anyone got any tips. I actually would appreciate some very basic instructions as to how to sand it off with the wet and dry. Do I wipe it after the sanding with a tack rag? I am a very raw beginner!
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24th April 2009, 09:54 AM #7
You have to work fairly quickly with Floorseal or it will streak. As an alternative to Don's method, try this after you have given the last coat of floorseal you put on a light sand. Get a light and shine it on the table at a very shallow angle, this will highlight any imperfections such as dry areas or runs. Use a soft rag like a piece of white tshirt or a cotton sheet and wet it in the Floorseal. Working quickly and in long strokes with the grain, work over the table, looking for and fixing imperfections like missed spots immediately (and if you don't see problems immediately, leave them, don't be tempted to touch them!). Always keep a wet edge. Repeat this until you have the build on the finish you desire, sanding dry between each coat with 400g. Lastly, use FW Fine Buffing Oil applied in the same way as the floorseal, but follow the buffing instructions for it. Apply a second coat if desired.
Cheers
Michael
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19th May 2009, 03:45 PM #8New Member
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Thank you to Don and Michael
Hi
The table is finished and looks pretty good. I would not have been able to do it without the help from you two guys. I am attempting to post an album with a photo of the table so you can see the final job. I ended up doing all the sanding back but applied the floorseal with a rag as Michael suggested. I covered up any flaws with Excalibur wax which I already had. This just softened it a bit. It looks great. Thank you.
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