Tablesaw Feeding

[silentC]

Rich, you might not have noticed but Adam is a southpaw

I also have to disagree on one point. There are times when having someone to tail out is very handy and if you instruct them properly in what to do, there shouldn't be an issue. Simple rule: don't grab and pull, just support.

[Hardwood Hacker]

Has anyone got any good photos of the results of incorrect sawing techniques??? I have a client who is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon.

[outback]

Tailing out is very important on occaisons.


My hands don't get anywhere near close enough to my table saw. Currently several thousand miles, maybe closer if the iron ore hasn't even been mined yat.

[silentC]

Has anyone got any good photos of the results of incorrect sawing techniques??? I have a client who is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon.

There's the odd photo posted on this forum. There's also a good bit of reading in a list of tablesaw related industrial accidents if the photos don't put the wind up you

[silentC]

Here you go: http://www.amgron.clara.net/circular.../accidents.htm

And try this for a photo: http://mosnews.com/news/2005/09/01/sawedman.shtml

[craigb]

• Don't stand in line with the blade
  
• Keep you hands well away from the blade
  
• If ripping less than 100mm use a push stick and featherboards
  
• Always use the spiltter and guard unless you're doing a non-through cut or using a cross-cut sled
  
• Keep the stock tight against the fence

Works for me.

[chrisp]

I made a few more cuts last night and, being a lefty, I just cant get comfortable with Scenario 1.

Adam,

I don't know what type of saw you have, but it would seem to me that you would possibly feel more comfortable if you could position the fence to the left of the blade. You will then be able to use a mirror image of "Scenario 1" in a manner that will probably be more natural to a southpaw.

Chris

[silentC]

Or buy yourself a Triton!!

[LineLefty]

Nice Avatar SilentC. Would you like a smegging tea cake?

I'll have another go feeding from the rigth hand side as that seems to be popular wisdom. Perhaps there's a psychological comfort in behing behind the fence.

you're rigth Wongo, there is a definite lack of confidence. I've been given this saw, a manual in chinese-translated english and away I go. I havent had a chance to see an experienced user make some cuts so I'm at a bit of a disadvatage to most. Some of the retailers have demos from time to time which I'll definitely go along to.

Thanks for your replies everyone, very much appreciated.

[Gumby]

Or buy yourself a Triton!!

Crawler. An obvious attempt at getting a greeny from me.

You failed BTW.

[redwood]

Adam,

The instructor, in his late thirties, has been woodworking since the age of 9. He was most adamant about using his technique in school. Since using his technique, I tend to agree with his methods and rules.

No helpers! Do NOT allow any one to help you on the out feed side of the table saw. Usually the helper will cause the stock to pinch the blade. The the saw will throw the stock back into the face of the operator. a.k.a. A Kick Back.

Rich, the advice you have given especialy where and how you your hands are working the timber is spot on with the way i do it. the only difference is my red zone is heaps less, but thats my choice.

Like silent i dont agree with you about out-feed help. Here in Aus its part of a cabies apprentiship duties to tail out and he learns how to do it safely.

And with your instructor, im not familiar with the way its done in the states but here its taught purley in a occupational health n safty way, public liability is more important than commonsence. So when i read it or hear or see an instructor teaching it the "propper" way, at times i cringe

Respect a spinning blade, commonsence, watch where your fingers are, and have no fear and youl keep all your fingers for holding your next beer

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Like silent i dont agree with you about out-feed help. Here in Aus its part of a cabies apprentiship duties to tail out and he learns how to do it safely.

I have to agree with this.

In situations where I need out-feed assistance and the only help at hand is unskilled, I'll often clamp a long stud to the fence, overhanging the out-feed side and tell 'em to "keep it held firm against that."

Of course, it's always best to try to avoid such situations, but... [shrug]

[redwood]

I have to agree with this.

In situations where I need out-feed assistance and the only help at hand is unskilled, I'll often clamp a long stud to the fence, overhanging the out-feed side and tell 'em to "keep it held firm against that."

Of course, it's always best to try to avoid such situations, but... [shrug]

Skew, nothing better than having someone who knows how to do it tail out. makes life so easy. i just tell em NOT to pull, just let it rest in their hand gently taking the weight, and if needed lightly prompt the board to the fence side

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Skew, nothing better than having someone who knows how to do it tail out. makes life so easy. i just tell em NOT to pull, just let it rest in their hand gently taking the weight, and if needed lightly prompt the board to the fence side

Damned right! Unfortunately, although I try to plan all major cuts in my shed there's always the odd occasion where I have to cut large panels on-site. Usually, only the brickie's labourer or framer's gophers are free to help and for some reason "don't pull" goes in one ear and out the next as often as not.

At home it's a different story. They've all learnt when to hide.

[Andy Mac]

Good thread guys,
Well worth discussing things like this. I tend to have a comfort space far smaller than 100mm, but always ALERT and aware. I use one push stick, find 2 very dicey to actually control things. The biggest problems I've come across in 20 odd yrs of using a table saw is the timber itself: observe the characteristics of EACH stick! Know which way a bow or warp should be fed, if you have to. Test a piece to know if it is case-hardened and will bite...half a blade cut and pull it back to see if the cut closes (more later). Make sure there are no lumps and bumps that will bear against the fence, thereby jamming it onto the blade. I'm right handed, so stand slightly to the left of the stick, feeding with my right hand and guiding against the fence with my left. Unfortunately the saw I use at work has the switch on the far right:eek:
I have one practice that I know upsets people, and experienced people too...I often withdraw wood from the saw before completing a cut. I assume the response is about the timber grabbing and therefore kicking back...but in my experience when done under complete, firm, control there is no risk. The only risk is a burnt cut, but I'm not going to recommend the practice. Why do I do this? I reckon that the last part of a feed, when the end of the timber passes the blade is the worst time for accidents. Sometimes the whole thing tips or jams against the outfeed stand; sometimes it wants to move sideways; you are at the end of extension with hand/pushstick; the guard is in the bl**dy way...basically I lack the control I want unless I have someone tailing out (much preferred practice). So when ripping I cut a portion, withdraw the timber, flip it over and continue cutting untill the first cut is met and I withdraw it, without getting to that end point. I know its against all instructions and warnings, so I'm not recommending it, but my only beef is the cuts aren't perfect. I can put up with that, planing or sanding to fix it... anyone else do similar?

Cheers,