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  1. #1
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    Default fixing timber to tiles????

    Hi All!! i have to pack out a tiled shower wall (2 of) with one needing about 85mm!:eek: to meet the new shower base. any ideas on fixing timber " battens " to previously tiled walls would be appreciated. Cheers!


    life is like a &&&& sandwich, the more bread you have , the less &&&& you have to eat!

  2. #2
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    If they're timber framed walls, you're better off removing the tiles/lining and just packing out the existing studs & noggins.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  3. #3
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    If it's double brick or other masonry, you could use rawl plugs and screws.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #4
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    Actually, I've changed my mind. If you're going to hang villaboard or something on it and tile it, you'd be better to use some sort of dynabolt - you can get them with countersunk heads.

    That is if it's masonry. If it's timber frame, go with Skewy.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  5. #5
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    Default

    thanx for the advice all. timber not masonry, was hoping to avoid pulling it all off, may be i have to but did try sticking a pine offcut to the face of a tile as a test overnight and it has well and truly GRABBED ! any probs with this simple method???? cheers!!

  6. #6
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    For any other room you could conceivably get away with it. But for a wet-area, well... trust me, it really isn't a good idea. It'll probably cost you in the long run.

    Why?

    One problem with gluing timber to masonry (or tiles, etc) is that timber shrinks/expands with temperature & humidity. So does the masonry, but to a lesser degree. Sooner or later, the glue will fail.

    Also, if you go ahead with your method, you'd best be damned sure it's water-proof 'cos the "old" tiles will act as a water-barrier and should any moisture get under the new 'uns it'll be trapped... which certainly won't do your battens any good. Wet rot.

    Whether you strip the old tiles or not, to do a reasonable job, you'll also have to pull up the closest row(s) of tiles from the other walls & floor, the ones' closest to the wall your moving. At minimum you need to run a strip of water-proofing (usually aluminium angle) in the wall/floor junctions, before relaying the tiles over the top.

    So, if you're going to be pulling up tiles anyway...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #7
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    Default

    thanx for your learned advice, guess its the hard road for me! :eek: cheers!

  8. #8
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    Sooner or later, the glue will fail.
    And so might the glue holding the tile to the wall. Your new batten will only be as good as the old tile adhesive.

    The sledgehammer is your friend
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

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