Spray finish...so many things to consider!

[buzsaw]

Good one Buzz, looks very nice! Well done. Once you conquer the "tricky" parts of lacquer spraying, you can achieve beautiful, very durable finishes, in a fraction of the time it takes using other techniques.

What sanding sealer did you use? How did you apply it? I've never used a sanding sealer so would appreciate your comments. Jarrah is fairly open grained, so even after 2 or 3 heavy coats of lacquer, you can still have a "textured" look & feel to the finish. Which I like. How many coats of lacquer did you apply over the sanding sealer? What was the lacquer? Looks like 40% gloss?

Richard

Hi Richard, Thanks for the feed back and earlier assistance.

Both the sealer and the top coat are wattyl acid cat, Acid Cat Sealer and Acid Cat Clear Topcot (30% gloss). I followed the instructions and directions from the rep and applied a single coat of each product but a "double-pass". Hope I interpreted this correctly and applied the sealer, waited 3 minutes and then applied another coat directly to it.

Left it for 5 hours, instructions say 1.5 hrs but had other things to do, and sanded it back reasonably heavy to 320 grit. Then applied the top coat using the same doube-pass method. I coated both top and bottom the same although the sanding was very quick on the underside.

Although it is dry in 1.5 hrs the result seems to get better over a few days. I read somewhere in another thread this is called gassing off? There is still a little smell coming from it and the surface looks better this morning but this could be just my imagination

The manufacturers instructions warn against excessive builds for both undercoat and topcoat to avoid stress cracking. I am very happy with the finish now so will not apply another coat.
Cheers, Buz.

[Redback]

Hi Guys,

Have been reading a few of the threads on sparying lacquer as well.

I am currently building two long craft workbench tables for my wife. The top is jarrah veneered chipboards, 2400 * 600 * 32.

The legs and supports are recycled Jarrah 80 * 40mm.

Anyways, in the past I have only done small jobs and have used shellac and trad wax or EEE. Im now thinking that for a harder surface I need to spray on a lacquer. I was nervous about doing this before hand, but now Im petrified after reading some posts !!

Anyways, to get me started, can anyone give me a couple of recommended purchases...

I have a compressor and a cheap and nasty gun that came with it, but Im guessing I shouldnt use that.

Im thinking of getting the porter cable gun from carbatec (seems a few people use this?)
[PSH2] PORTER CABLE PSH2 GRAVITY FEED DETAIL SPRAY GUN
<TABLE><TBODY></TBODY></TABLE>

Will I need a regulator for this?

Both the sealer and the top coat are wattyl acid cat, Acid Cat Sealer and Acid Cat Clear Topcot (30% gloss).

where did you buy this from? is there specialist dealers or would Bunning have this?

Anyone in Perth willing to give a complete novice a demo!!..

I am really worried about buggering this job up...

Alternatively is there a something safer I can use by hand. I havent tried to test it, but would hard shellac be resistant to scratching etc

cheers

Redback

[MurrayD99]

<TABLE><TBODY></TBODY></TABLE>

Will I need a regulator for this?
cheers

Redback

I think it will be necessary, otherwise the pressure at the gun will be the full pressure generated by the compressor - which might not coincide with the requirements of the product you are applying. I recently sprayed Wattly Deck & Furniture oil for the first time and made a bit of a mess -
had to reduce the pressure at the regulator to 35psi. Normally, I'd use 60psi for paint. I don't think the sort of gun you use will change the situation - though some guns have pressure control on the grip - but unless you got a guage, that is hit and miss. Good luck.

[echnidna]

Before you go and get another spraygun try the old one out.
You can always fill it with clean water and just spray you shed wall to see if it give a nice mist. If it works ok with water it should handle lacquer ok.

[Richardwoodhead]

Redback, unless you're wanting to start down the lacquer road for most of your finishing (in which case this job will be a good learning exercise), there are other easier options for this particular job. The one I would suggest is using an oil/poly mix. The one I've used a lot is Feast Watson Floorseal. It produces a nice satin finish which is water proof and very durable. The best application (in my experience) is to SPRAY on the coats of Floorseal (You can add a little turps as a thinner). And sand back (random orbital / 320 grit) between coats. Two or three coats will do. By the third coat you'll have a beautiful finish. I offer this info only if you want to avoid the sometimes stressful task of mastering lacquer spraying.

Richard

[Redback]

I just posted a longish reply to this and it didnt post :mad:

Anyways, thanks for the input.

Richard, I was sorely tempted by your recommendation, but I need/want to learn how to spray lacquer. I have many large projects I intend doing in the future and I think lacquer will be the way to go.

Still trying to find where to buy it though. Phonebook has my nearest supplier about 70 k's away...
Couldnt find anything at Bunnings. (sounds too technical from my reading for them to supply!)

Anyways, quick question for you. Was reading an article in Fine Woodworking and it talks about using some kind of paste to filll open pored timbers. I noted you mentioned that Jarrah is an open pored timber. Do you do anything like this, or do you just apply a few coats of sanding sealer?

What grit do you sand your Jarrah down to when its still raw? My side tables etc I was sanding down to about 1500 grit, for applying shellac. I dont want to have to go that far for these table as It will take me a month!.

anyways, thanks for the info.

Redback

[Richardwoodhead]

Good move. Once you've mastered lacquer spraying it's one of the best finishes around. Quick, durable, lovely satin finish. Etc.

I don'y use any sealers as I like the open grain look & feel. However, after a few coats of lacquer, the build will start to fill most pores.

Mirotone and Becker Acroma are two high end Lacquer sources. I think Wattyl also produce lacquers. The highest quality lacquers (I've been told) are the 2-pack acid curing lacquers. You usually add one part hardener (the "acid") to ten parts of the lacquer. Becker Acroma (a low toxic, high quality lacquer) is about the only product used by all the local SW woodworking galleries (Boranup, Yallingup, JahRoc, etc).

Twenty Two Services are the local distributors, located north of Perth - Neerabup. Speak with Paul Daley. 9206 0220. They also sell high end spray equipment.

I only go down to 180 grit / orbital. Then a light 320 grit sand between coats of lacquer. After lacquering they're smooth as silk.

Richard

[martrix]

all this great advice, and not one mention of lung protection?
once you get a decent dual face respirator with dust covers, you will see all the crap it catches, and remember that you once used to inhale it!