Results 1 to 10 of 10
Thread: New furniture
-
29th July 1999, 11:10 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Umina, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 6
New furniture
Looking for the best allround (if there is such a thing) finish for newly constructed furniture. Finely made Tables, dressers, entertainment units. Need to bring out the natural beauty of the grain. Items are being made from American Cherry and other exotic woods. Would like to stay away from shellac or polurathaine. Thanks !!!
-
30th July 1999, 11:02 AM #2Supermod
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Brisbane, Qld.
- Age
- 48
- Posts
- 579
Is this furniture going to be factory made and in quantities? If so, probably the best finish ( economically!! ) would be a coat of sanding sealer, sanded, then followed by a coat or two of N/C lacquer.
But, if it is just one off pieces you are making or getting made then the choice of finishes is great. Myself, I would coat with a good sealer, then finish with a good A/cat Lacquer. Otherwise, oils & waxes are on offer, but really the timber should be at least sealed with shellac for these.
Hope this helps!!
Cheers
Shane...
-
31st July 1999, 09:02 PM #3Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Umina, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 6
Shane, Thank you !! These pieces are one offs to show and hopefully to get other orders from. I've not used an a-cat laquer. More info please?!? I'll look around.Thanks !!!!
-
1st August 1999, 10:13 AM #4Supermod
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Brisbane, Qld.
- Age
- 48
- Posts
- 579
An acid catalyst lacquer is simply a two part lacquer. Although it is basically just a N/C lacquer but with better properties. It is resistant to 90% household chems. Resists heat and moisture better ( not altogether though ). I use it because living up here in NTH QLD we get a lot of humidity etc and normal N/C lac is hopeless. Its not a polyurethane which most people associate with 2-part. If you really want more info, I would suggest calling your local lacquer supplier and having a good yarn to him....
Cheers
Shane..
-
4th August 1999, 06:34 AM #5Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jun 1999
- Posts
- 45
Richard,
How do you apply your finishes?
Wipe, brush, or spray?
What features, are you looking for in the finish?
As these are show pieces, how much time, and effort, do you want spend on these pieces.
-
13th August 1999, 11:11 AM #6Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jun 1999
- Posts
- 45
Hi Shane,
Just curious, are you using a Conversion Varnish?
Some companies, call them (two pack) Acid Cured Lacquers, while most are actually the Water Clear Conversion Varnish coating, with all the good properties, that you mentioned.
MAC
------------------
-
13th August 1999, 12:01 PM #7Supermod
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Brisbane, Qld.
- Age
- 48
- Posts
- 579
Mac
To be honest I am not 100% sure! I had put that question to the PRG but never got a reply! I know what I use is not a varnish, it is a lacquer and is not water clear. And you just add about 10% acid catalyst to harden the lacquer. I had once been told by a rep. that it is basically just a N/C lac with a catalyst! Hope that helps a little
Cheers
Shane.
-
27th August 1999, 12:24 AM #8Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Umina, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 6
Mac, Sorry 'bout the belated reply ... computor's been in the shop for a "tuneup". Have been finishing most of my furniture with Tung oil or linseed/turps with brush or cloth and rubbing in. After about 24 hrs a coat or two of beeswax polish. I want the finish to bring out the grain and charachteristics of the timber. Do not like finishes that form a "coat" over the timber.(polyurethane and such) Don't mind spending a bit of time with the polish as this is the last step before showing it off. Familiar with L. & J.G. Stickley of Manlius, New York? Mission Style furniture. That is the kind of stuff I enjoy crafting.
-
27th August 1999, 05:12 AM #9Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jun 1999
- Posts
- 45
Hi Richard,
Just a thought, if you add 10-15 % of Polyurethane to your Tung Oil, and a little Mineral Spirits, you will find it wipes, or brushes out nice. It still could be rubbed out. You won't notice much change in the final look.
This would make the finish more durable and chemical resistant, without given it that plastic look.
Mac
------------------
-
1st September 1999, 11:40 PM #10Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 1999
- Location
- Umina, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 6
Thanks Mac !! I'l give this a try. Let you know what I think. Today's Wed - will do a small piece on Sat.
Bookmarks