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Thread: Wadkin PK Gen 4

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
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    With filling you have to apply a thin layer to the full casting and then sand back to the general shape of the piece you are working on, it's the only way to get rid of these casting defects.

  2. #92
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    Apr 2013
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    Brisbane
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    What I did first was to apply TROTON Premium Universal Filler first, this goes on as a thick paste and is a bit hard to get an even coating especially when you have curves or tight spots. If you have obstructions when sanding it can be tricky to get a nice flat surface so some is done with my Festool sander and some done by hand. Voids are fairly common and have typically sanded and then done a second coat with this stuff but low spots etc can be lead you down the garden path and you end up chasing your tail if your striving for perfection. My hope with the Septone® Acrylic Spray Putty was that it would go on a lot thicker (perhaps 1-2mm) to fill anything that that the TROTON Universal Filler didn't.

    TROTON Premium Universal Filler.jpeg

  3. #93
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    Nov 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    What I did first was to apply TROTON Premium Universal Filler first, this goes on as a thick paste and is a bit hard to get an even coating especially when you have curves or tight spots. If you have obstructions when sanding it can be tricky to get a nice flat surface so some is done with my Festool sander and some done by hand. Voids are fairly common and have typically sanded and then done a second coat with this stuff but low spots etc can be lead you down the garden path and you end up chasing your tail if your striving for perfection. My hope with the Septone® Acrylic Spray Putty was that it would go on a lot thicker (perhaps 1-2mm) to fill anything that that the TROTON Universal Filler didn't.

    TROTON Premium Universal Filler.jpeg
    I use a fine body filler like this one TROTON Premium Fine Body Filler Includes Hardener 1.8kg Auto Car Dent
    – Wholesale Paint Group
    I make sure it is mixed well with the minimum amount of hardener to make sure there are no air bubbles then I ice the casting like icing a cake. Once cured sand by machine to flatten the high spots then wet/dry by hand, when I am happy with the finish I will go over it with 120 grit to give the paint something to key to. So the pic you showed is not the casting but air holes in your filler?

  4. #94
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    Apr 2013
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    Brisbane
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    Thanks - I think the biggest issue I have is caking on the filler enough to 'over fill' any voids so when standing back I don't have any voids left. The voids aren't air bubbles they are just areas that are low spots or where I have a line thats left by the squeezy/applicator card thats got dried lumps on it which I didn't remove prior to applying a fresh coat. The stuff I have been using goes off quick & sticks like crazy and is hard to get off the squeezy/applicator card and because the squeezy/applicator card is made of plastic it very often is prone to having residue left on it.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    Old credit cards make good bog spreaders.
    When I did Autobody and spray painting at TAFE the teacher made a point to just fold the bog and hardener over itself gently a number of times til it’s an even colour. Don’t mix aggressively with a rounded hacksaw blade like I learnt as a Patternmaker for fillets as that creates the bubbles/pinholes.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

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