Huon pine cutting board wheel

[Lee Jay Xin]

I recently bought a huon pine wheel with live edge.But unfortunately, there's a little rough surface and some barks are peeling on the edge.I was told to sand the edge until its smooth before oiling it.I have never sand a wood before but i know it needs to be sand along the grain.The wheel is a cut of the cross section of the log so im guessing to sand it vertically(up and down) while its facing upwards(the wheel is lying flat). I hope to get some advice on how to sand it and as well as oiling it.Thank you very much in advance.

[jack620]

Hello Lee, are you able to post a picture of the area that is rough/peeling? I'm not sure sanding is the best solution.

[Lee Jay Xin]

Please help me as this wood is precious to my family.Tq

[mic-d]

Do you have an angle grinder? That will be the best tool for the job I think. You would need a twisted wire brush, not the cup-shaped one but the disc shaped one and or a flap sanding disc. Use the wire brush to remove all the rough stuff, working up and down, then use the flap sander disc to give a final shaping and better finish. You might get away with a flap sanding disc alone, and if you only have a power drill, that might spin fast enough for the flap disc but it will be more awkward and potentially dangerous in those ins and outs on the wood. Follow all manufacturer instructions for the tools and accessories described, including recommendations for PPE, and recommended applications and techniques. These tools can be dangerous.

If it is to be used for food, use liquid paraffin oil, the medicinal grade one from a pharmacist or a certified food safe grade

[rustynail]

That wheel has come from a lovely piece of Huon pine and should be treated accordingly. Before you start, count the rings as each one represents a year of growth, this will give you some idea of the age of the tree. These trees are some of the oldest on Earth.
To clean up the edge I would be inclined to use chisels rather than electrical equipment, particularly if you are not familiar with fast spinning grinders and quick removal cutters and the like. Follow the profile as you work with the chisels, use the sizes of chisels that suits the profile as it changes. Carvers chisels work well for this type of work as they are designed to follow shapes. This timber is very soft and easy to work by hand.
Once the edge has been chiselled to your satisfaction, sand the edge, with the grain, to remove any chisel marks with fine sand paper. No need for course sanding as the timber is soft and will show scratches from the course grit. The faces of the wheel can be sanded with a random orbital sander as they are end grain and there is no particular direction that must be followed. Again, fine paper is the best for this as course will scratch. No courser than 180 and final sand with 250 or 300. For an oil finish the finer the sand the better the finish. So, if you feel that it needs a bit finer than 300 go to 400.
When oiling, do both sides the same to help prevent cupping.
Good luck and enjoy.

[Mobyturns]

You will get numerous "best ways" to do this task.

If you have a corded or cordless drill, I would suggest using a soft bristle sanding disk / wheel to brush rather than sand the sides of the disc.

The variable speed of the drill and the less aggressive action of the bristle wheel will be much easier to manage for a novice. The bristle wheel can also be worked into the deep grooves in the sides with minimal risk. Then progress to 3M style "Scotch-Brite Pads" in various "grits" to sand / buff to your desired finish.

Google "3M scotch-brite" there are numerous genuine and other makers accessories readily available.