Sewing Machine Cabinet

[Chris Parks]

Mrs P. casually mentioned this morning that she would like to have her old singer treadle sewing machine cabinet restored. I had forgotten about this little gem but as I am sort of between jobs at the moment maybe the time has arrived. The veneer is missing in some places and has multiple lifting and peeling in others so maybe it is better to strip it off and start again? I have never done veneering so my first reaction is too farm it out to a restorer who has and let him do the work properly as I do not have the gear to do it but I suppose that could be gotten around. Has anyone here got any experience with what was used, glue types etc? I looked at a few Google hits and I think the "advice" there is best ignored.

[auscab]

Ive worked on a few over the years and they de laminate if neglected . From the ones I have seen they were pressed with alternating veneers , possibly Poplar and topped with White Oak sliced veneer probably the underside as well I forget . They are the sort of size that you can peel off or get under loose layers and press it with back down with Hide Glue using the standard quick action 300mm clamps and cauls made of chip board with cross bars if needed . I would do them in a few stages to make sure you get the ground for the final veneer true before laying the final back down or replacing it with new sliced Oak if the final needs replacing . You may need at least 8 clamps to get a panel done possibly more , don't try it if you don't have enough clamps. Give us the dimensions to the largest panel that needs doing . Also, they were originally polished with a thick Jam like spirit varnish that's orrible , and hard to revive and get looking good most of the time . It goes all chalky and brittle . Shellac is a nice way to re do them with the finishing .
As always a few pictures and we could soon say have a go or run .

Rob

[Chris Parks]

Rob, a quick run down on what I can see. Both vertical sides have damaged veneer as can be seen in the photos and large areas where the veneer has lifted away from the substrate and cracked. I have more photos but this will give you an idea of what needs doing. As it is a very complete machine with all accessories I think it needs to have the veneer removed and replaced wholus bolus but you would better able to judge that than me. It has deep ingrained dirt in the veneer on the top work surface as well which would need attention. The finish they put on it did not stop the dirt getting into the veneer and it looks like it was never polished or waxed to stop that happening.

IMG_2017.JPGIMG_2020.JPGIMG_2021.JPGIMG_2022.jpgIMG_2023.JPGIMG_2024.JPGIMG_2025.jpgIMG_2026.JPGIMG_2030.JPGIMG_2033.JPGSide Veneer Damage.jpgSide Venner Lifted and Broken.jpg

[auscab]

The thing with these Singer cabinets is usually its not just the first layer that's let go and is loose . That's one thing you will have to determine . Or ask someone that can tell . Ive seen them with three or more layers loose.That makes them harder to fix if it is that way . I wouldn't be replacing it all if I didn't have to. If you try it and aren't experienced it will turn into a huge job and if you pay an expert his huge amount of work will cost a lot more than its worth . Much better to conserve as much as possible and do the best to keep it original as possible . Revive it and put up with its faults which can look quite good if done the right way. That's how I always restored them . And how I would recommend either you do it ,or a pro does it, which is what I am, and still do when I'm not making stuff from new then making it look old.

One way of doing it
If you glue down a loose top layer over loose lower ones Its not the end of the world but try to see if the lower layers are also loose by pressing and feeling the difference between obvious single layer loose ones , they feel and sound different to the light tap with a finger. If the loose lower layer was bad, what I used to do was partially lift the top layer of to get to the one below , and then the same below that if it was bad. . working with a Glue pot and hide glue to knife under fresh glue then using the cross pien end of a brad hammer to act like a veneer hammer to shift the glue around and back out if there is to much in there . Having a few hot old hot cast iron Irons is how I usually work doing this with them resting on a stove nearby and a tin of hot water and a jug with hot water as well . There are a few ways this can all go wrong if its new to you so start slow and try it out maybe . one thing is not leaving to much glue under anything , that's bad . Pushing under any splinter or dirt must be avoided , That causes problems. Having a hot iron instantly cook itself to the veneer happens as well , that's a disaster.

Or lift up the problem areas and knife in as much glue as possible , hammer it out like above and quickly cover it with news paper , then a block of flat wood , protect the other side with some wood and clamp it up . I used to heat the blocks as well , in a microwave close by is one good way . Or steel blocks on the electric stove top near by . I have a small one for this and the glue pots.

Edit.. I always read after I post and edit
Its easy on the edges doing this . All my descriptions here apply more to the problematic middle , if its lifted with more than one layer. They all work on the edges as well with more ease.

Another possibility is drill holes down into the layers that allow a plastic syringe that's sitting in boiling water to inject glue in and down . You would need two or more holes at each end, and larger than the back of a brad hammer cross piens or proper veneer hammers , which can be made by fitting brass sheet into a slotted head and fitting a handle. A Hot iron is not much good at more than one layer at a time so you would have to work in a hot room with the top having been in there for hours , a cold top and room in winter dramatically stuffs things right up with hide glue full stop ! And so you would have to work quick and squeeze out all that is possible and then cover with paper and clamp it down .
These three quick explanations are if your repairing whats there . If you did take off the lop layer and then repair all the problems under that in one of the ways above , then press a new top layer on , you would need a clamp about every 5 inches + cauls , heated ,if its being done with hide glue, steel is good, 6 or 8mm thick . Or learn how to hammer veneer with hide glue and with oak , which can be harder to lay with the hammer than say Walnut because of the open grain .
Or press it with a pva or titebond .

I hope some of this helps . Its so long and detailed to explain it, that I think the explanation suffers .
I did learn doing this watching older guys first . Then I made all the mistakes they told me about any way . You can make the mistakes . The good thing is its possible to recover from all of them .
Rob

[Chris Parks]

The sewing machine cabinet has had the magic wand waved over it by Auscab and now looks like this. Rob did not restore it to perfection, firstly I doubt if that was even feasible saying that he preferred to give it a used look. Whatever, it now looks like something that Mrs P will be happy to show her friends. These pictures were taken by Rob and sent to me via email so I hope they work here OK. I have just made the round trip to Victoria again to pick it up. All I can say is what a totally awesome job from the wreck it was, thanks for everything Rob.

image2.jpgSewing Cabinet (3).jpg Sewing Cabinet (1).jpg

[auscab]

[QUOTE=Chris Parks;2115741] All I can say is what a totally awesome job from the wreck it was, thanks for everything Rob.

QUOTE]

Thank you Chris.

Mission accomplished

Rob

[Brigalow]

G'day Mr. Parks and auscab.

I know this is an old thread that I am replying to, but could you please tell me how/what the finish used on this cabinet is and was applied.
It looks absolutely awesome.

Thank you.

Brigalow.

[auscab]

G'day Mr. Parks and auscab.

I know this is an old thread that I am replying to, but could you please tell me how/what the finish used on this cabinet is and was applied.
It looks absolutely awesome.

Thank you.

Brigalow.

Hi Brigalow.
Its got a beeswax finish on top of shellac for the restored surface.
Under the shellac and on top of the old finish is a poly sanding sealer. This is applied as a barrier to the old chalky spirit varnish. It gives it something to put the shellac onto that doesn't react with the old spirit varnish.
Just trying to shellac and revive those spirit varnish covered Singers without a barrier does not work as well as having a barrier.

Rob

[Brigalow]

Thanks Rob.

A couple of other quick questions if you do not mind.
1. Prior to starting any work on the table, what would you clean it down with?....Warm water/natural soap flakes, perhaps? Or a shop bought cleaner?
2. Do you give the old finish a scraping or other process to remove the chalky barrier?
3. Do you apply a stain? If so, what is your preferred colour/type?

I have a 1920 treadle Singer that I wish to restore for my wife for our 25th wedding anniversary. I have disassembled the cast base and put it through the sand blaster and repainted it.......has come up a treat. The machine itself is being professionally restored (beyond my capabilities). So I really appreciate your help and experience with the wooden parts of this project.

Thanks, again.

Grant.